? Re. installing Momo s/w
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
? Re. installing Momo s/w
I did a search to no avail .
1) Steering wheel and airbag are off, all wires unplugged. The clockspring is staring me in the face... now what? I have a Momo Mod07 and #7004 hub. I could simply start pulling apart the clockspring, but advice appreciated at this stage....
2) I will pull the passenger side airbag this weekend. I assume this will need a resistor as well re. fooling the computer/airbag light. Anyone done this on the passenger side... same as the driver's?
1) Steering wheel and airbag are off, all wires unplugged. The clockspring is staring me in the face... now what? I have a Momo Mod07 and #7004 hub. I could simply start pulling apart the clockspring, but advice appreciated at this stage....
2) I will pull the passenger side airbag this weekend. I assume this will need a resistor as well re. fooling the computer/airbag light. Anyone done this on the passenger side... same as the driver's?
#2
Rennlist Member
Matt, read this, originally posted by joeybagadonuts:
- Disabling the airbag is not recommended by the manufacturer
- The Momo adapter hub #7004 is not a perfect fit with the stock column collar. You must modify the hub collars to complete this installation (see below).
- Disconnecting the airbag may activate the warning lights and require a trip to your nearest Porsche dealership to reset (usually a five minute job with the Bosch Hammer).
If still interested, keep reading.
Parts & tools required:
- Momo wheel
- Momo hub adapter 7004
- Porsche airbag tester 000.721.951.60 (not 9516/1)
- Porsche horn contact 964.652.104.00
- Male and female wiring contacts. The spade type often used to connect audio speakers.
- Torque wrench
- Torx T30 screwdriver socket
- ½” rachet driver with 5” socket extension
- 24mm socket (15/16" might be a better fit if you can find one)
- Phillips head screwdriver
Step 1. To begin, disconnect the battery ground and wait at least 20 minutes before attempting this installation to prevent accidental airbag ignition.
Step 2. Loosen the two screws located at 9 and 3 o'clock on the back side of the steering wheel using the T30 socket. These screw hold the bag on to the wheel and once loosened, will allow you to "lift" the airbag right off the wheel. It will be connected by a wire from the column which you can easily unplug.
Step 3. To get the wheel off the column, I used a 24mm socket BUT it was a little loose--it works, but it's not a precise fit. Loosen the bolt, remove the accompanying washer, unplug the horn contact wire and remove the wheel from the steering post.
Note: You will want to mark the top dead center location (TDC) of the steering post to facilitate installation of the new wheel.
Step 4. The column collar requires the removal of 6 phillips head screws, four on the face and two on the sides. It's tricky getting the bottom half off the column, especially if you have a cruise control stalk, so be gentle as you ease it off.
Step 5. The final piece to remove is the horn contact plate. It's a circular piece made of plastic and a flat copper ring. Basically, it allows you to turn the wheel without tangling or unplugging the wires in the hub. It's two more screws.
Step 6. Now, gently pull the wiring attached to the contact plate out from the dash. The horn and airbag wiring is sheathed in a rubber tube. Sliding it up will reveal the two plugs connected to the contact plate which you can disconnect to keep the plate intact. You will need to clip the airbag wire on the front of the plate to attach the 9516 tester.
Step 7. Now you need to install the Factory horn contact 964.652.104.00 to the stalk assembly. Do you see the curved metallic part surrounding the center? That piece passes current and makes contact with the metallic bottom of the Momo hub; without this contact, the horn will not work.
Note: The 7004 hub is the correct part but the diameter is actually just a little big. The solution is to sand off some material from the collar halves to enlarge the opening---CAREFULLY-- so that they fit around the adapter. I used the sandpaper sheet wrapped around a coke can trick to trim it back.
Step 8. Install the hub and secure with washer and nut; torque to 32.5 ft lbs. Make sure to seat the hub with one of the wheel mounting holes lined up with the post’s TDC mark. Again, the forward edge of the column covers should straddle the outside of the adapter.
Step 9. Airbag wiring. You’ll need to splice the airbag lead to the wire coming out of the dash. The airbag tester is a 2" x 1/2" wafer housed in a plastic box. Lose the box and find a secure place to locate the tester behind the steering column.
Step 10. Horn wiring. (Sorry, I'm a little fuzzy, here) You will need to mount a spade type contact to the back of the horn if two are not present. There’s a small screw hole already there and you’ll probably want to take the horn to your hardware store to find the right size screw. The screw makes contact with the coil spring under the horn button when depressed. Momo supplies a wire which attaches to the male contact located in the hub (ground) and the horn button. Route the lead (from behind the dash?) and ground wires through the hub and unattached wheel center, connect them to the horn button and press it into place along with the mounting ring.
Step 11. Mount the wheel to the hub with the six screws supplied (I think it’s 5 ft lbs), reconnect the battery and fire it up. Check the horn and drive around the block to ensure the steering hub was properly centered.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-forum/203290-installing-rs-wheel-need-some-advice.html
Also, try searching for "clockspring" for more threads on the subject.
- Disabling the airbag is not recommended by the manufacturer
- The Momo adapter hub #7004 is not a perfect fit with the stock column collar. You must modify the hub collars to complete this installation (see below).
- Disconnecting the airbag may activate the warning lights and require a trip to your nearest Porsche dealership to reset (usually a five minute job with the Bosch Hammer).
If still interested, keep reading.
Parts & tools required:
- Momo wheel
- Momo hub adapter 7004
- Porsche airbag tester 000.721.951.60 (not 9516/1)
- Porsche horn contact 964.652.104.00
- Male and female wiring contacts. The spade type often used to connect audio speakers.
- Torque wrench
- Torx T30 screwdriver socket
- ½” rachet driver with 5” socket extension
- 24mm socket (15/16" might be a better fit if you can find one)
- Phillips head screwdriver
Step 1. To begin, disconnect the battery ground and wait at least 20 minutes before attempting this installation to prevent accidental airbag ignition.
Step 2. Loosen the two screws located at 9 and 3 o'clock on the back side of the steering wheel using the T30 socket. These screw hold the bag on to the wheel and once loosened, will allow you to "lift" the airbag right off the wheel. It will be connected by a wire from the column which you can easily unplug.
Step 3. To get the wheel off the column, I used a 24mm socket BUT it was a little loose--it works, but it's not a precise fit. Loosen the bolt, remove the accompanying washer, unplug the horn contact wire and remove the wheel from the steering post.
Note: You will want to mark the top dead center location (TDC) of the steering post to facilitate installation of the new wheel.
Step 4. The column collar requires the removal of 6 phillips head screws, four on the face and two on the sides. It's tricky getting the bottom half off the column, especially if you have a cruise control stalk, so be gentle as you ease it off.
Step 5. The final piece to remove is the horn contact plate. It's a circular piece made of plastic and a flat copper ring. Basically, it allows you to turn the wheel without tangling or unplugging the wires in the hub. It's two more screws.
Step 6. Now, gently pull the wiring attached to the contact plate out from the dash. The horn and airbag wiring is sheathed in a rubber tube. Sliding it up will reveal the two plugs connected to the contact plate which you can disconnect to keep the plate intact. You will need to clip the airbag wire on the front of the plate to attach the 9516 tester.
Step 7. Now you need to install the Factory horn contact 964.652.104.00 to the stalk assembly. Do you see the curved metallic part surrounding the center? That piece passes current and makes contact with the metallic bottom of the Momo hub; without this contact, the horn will not work.
Note: The 7004 hub is the correct part but the diameter is actually just a little big. The solution is to sand off some material from the collar halves to enlarge the opening---CAREFULLY-- so that they fit around the adapter. I used the sandpaper sheet wrapped around a coke can trick to trim it back.
Step 8. Install the hub and secure with washer and nut; torque to 32.5 ft lbs. Make sure to seat the hub with one of the wheel mounting holes lined up with the post’s TDC mark. Again, the forward edge of the column covers should straddle the outside of the adapter.
Step 9. Airbag wiring. You’ll need to splice the airbag lead to the wire coming out of the dash. The airbag tester is a 2" x 1/2" wafer housed in a plastic box. Lose the box and find a secure place to locate the tester behind the steering column.
Step 10. Horn wiring. (Sorry, I'm a little fuzzy, here) You will need to mount a spade type contact to the back of the horn if two are not present. There’s a small screw hole already there and you’ll probably want to take the horn to your hardware store to find the right size screw. The screw makes contact with the coil spring under the horn button when depressed. Momo supplies a wire which attaches to the male contact located in the hub (ground) and the horn button. Route the lead (from behind the dash?) and ground wires through the hub and unattached wheel center, connect them to the horn button and press it into place along with the mounting ring.
Step 11. Mount the wheel to the hub with the six screws supplied (I think it’s 5 ft lbs), reconnect the battery and fire it up. Check the horn and drive around the block to ensure the steering hub was properly centered.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-forum/203290-installing-rs-wheel-need-some-advice.html
Also, try searching for "clockspring" for more threads on the subject.
#4
Rennlist Member
It's not too bad. The hardest part, at least for me, was getting to the damn clockspring connectors. There was not enough slack to access it from the top or the bottom. I had to dismantle and maybe cut (can't remember) one of the vents to get at the damn thing.
#6
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
#7
Race Car
I don't understand, the wires should be accessible from the underside if they get hung up in trying to pull the clock spring. Pulling everything and re-installing the new hub/wheel should be a breeze. With pull the old wheel and re-install of my Momo wheel it was quick work. Hardest part was getting the old wheel off (those damn torque bolts hidden way up in the wheel).
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#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
It's not too bad. The hardest part, at least for me, was getting to the damn clockspring connectors. There was not enough slack to access it from the top or the bottom. I had to dismantle and maybe cut (can't remember) one of the vents to get at the damn thing.
For anyone doing this in the future, there are a number of tight zip ties that attach the clockspring wires to the main bundle of switchgear wires. Take out the CCU and you can access & cut one of the zip ties through a porthole. Then from the front (under the s/w base assembly) you can sneak a long pair of scissors in (have a friend hold a flashlight) and cut the other zip tie. This frees everything up so you can draw the connectors out.... then have a beer .
#10
Rennlist Member
I have a 1995, and best I can recall this went really easy. I don't recall any difficulties whatsoever. One of the easier mods I've done for sure. I followed the DIY that Joe wrote.
#12
Rennlist Member
Resurrection!
I am having trouble pulling the clockspring connectors down as well. Can't get to the zip ties without dissassembling the underside or taking out the heater control unit. Is there a special tool needed to get that unit out?
I am having trouble pulling the clockspring connectors down as well. Can't get to the zip ties without dissassembling the underside or taking out the heater control unit. Is there a special tool needed to get that unit out?
#13
Three Wheelin'
I just did this mod a few months ago, mine went smooth also. To remove the CCU you need these from your local auto supply store.
You might also want to take a look at the ToSi thread on this:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ng-photos.html
You might also want to take a look at the ToSi thread on this:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ng-photos.html
#14
Rennlist Member
I just did this a few weeks ago on a 95... No luck getting the connectors out. Not enough slack. I ended up pulling the lower dash a week early, since I was planning on re-dying the vinyl. This made everything else much easier, though I must admit that the dash pull was a little more intense than I'd guessed it would be.
#15
Rennlist Member
I just did this mod a few months ago, mine went smooth also. To remove the CCU you need these http://www.amazon.com/Advanced-Desig...o+removal+tool from your local auto supply store.
You might also want to take a look at the ToSi thread on this:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ng-photos.html
You might also want to take a look at the ToSi thread on this:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...ng-photos.html
Thanks, I got the CCU out and and remove the the clockspring. Now, my biggest issure is finding the 2.8 Ohm resistor. I thought it would be easy but cannot find at Radio Shack or anywhere else. Am I missing something...should be an easy find.
I just did this a few weeks ago on a 95... No luck getting the connectors out. Not enough slack. I ended up pulling the lower dash a week early, since I was planning on re-dying the vinyl. This made everything else much easier, though I must admit that the dash pull was a little more intense than I'd guessed it would be.