Can Someone shed some light on "Drop Links" please
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Can Someone shed some light on "Drop Links" please
OK...I hear a lot of talk about "drop links"....
-what are they for exactly, the shocks, the sways, the springs, etc...
-who needs them and who doesn't ( 4, S, C2, etc)?
-Do they go in the front and/or back?
I ordered a set of M030 row springs and a set of Bilstein HD for my C4S with the factory 030 option code ( bigger sway bars). Both from different people ( saved a decent amount)and now I have to finf an installer in Montreal.
Do I need these drop links for the install, or are they already on my car as per what I have read? Also, do I need any other parts for the install?
thanks,
sam
-what are they for exactly, the shocks, the sways, the springs, etc...
-who needs them and who doesn't ( 4, S, C2, etc)?
-Do they go in the front and/or back?
I ordered a set of M030 row springs and a set of Bilstein HD for my C4S with the factory 030 option code ( bigger sway bars). Both from different people ( saved a decent amount)and now I have to finf an installer in Montreal.
Do I need these drop links for the install, or are they already on my car as per what I have read? Also, do I need any other parts for the install?
thanks,
sam
#2
Drifting
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Drop links are what connect your sway bars to your suspension...specifically the shocks. The "link" "drops" from the shock to the sway bar. You have two in front and two in back. I don't have a pic...but I am sure someone will post one. You can use your existsing drop links for your install to your existing sways.
#3
Drifting
Drop links are the 0---0 looking bars that connect the end of your sway bars to the suspension. You have them front & rear.
I was able to retain the fronts when I went lower but had to install two new RS rear 's to get the desired result.
Good Luck and don't forget to get the car corner balanced!.............ZP44
I was able to retain the fronts when I went lower but had to install two new RS rear 's to get the desired result.
Good Luck and don't forget to get the car corner balanced!.............ZP44
#4
Rennlist Member
You may have trouble with the length of your existing drop links. In my case, the front drop links were OK but the rear were too long and had to be shortened when the Bilstein HDs went on.
#6
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I'm not sure if my explanation will help, as my "understanding" of suspension bits is weak. But, having been through the process, maybe you can gleen something useful from it.
My understanding is that you are limited in the amount you can lower the car without installing the RS drop links; otherwise, you will get horrible bump steer or will be riding on the bump stops. Simply put, you mess up the geometry of the suspension pieces if you lower the car too much. I could not quite lower my car to RS spec while maintaining the rake, without sacrificing and getting bump steer. When I did lower to RS spec, I was riding on the bump stops in the front and got HORRIBLE bump steer. We raised the car back up to maintain the correct rake, and now it handles very well.
My understanding is that you are limited in the amount you can lower the car without installing the RS drop links; otherwise, you will get horrible bump steer or will be riding on the bump stops. Simply put, you mess up the geometry of the suspension pieces if you lower the car too much. I could not quite lower my car to RS spec while maintaining the rake, without sacrificing and getting bump steer. When I did lower to RS spec, I was riding on the bump stops in the front and got HORRIBLE bump steer. We raised the car back up to maintain the correct rake, and now it handles very well.
#7
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The C4S has specific front drop links, shaped like a deformed horseshoe so as to clear the front halfshafts. The HD rears, supplied with the shocks, are ~1/2 the length of the OEM parts.
Before doing the install, pick up a second pair of locknuts for the rear spring perches - lock them top and bottom.
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#8
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The front droplinks for the M030 option are cast steel whereas the std links are steel tubing, both bent to clear front driveshafts found in the AWD cars. Since the front M030 bar spring rate is increased, it would be best to ensure you install the M030 links at the front.
The rears get a little complicated as the location or height of the arb mount dictates how long of a rear drop link you need.
The rears get a little complicated as the location or height of the arb mount dictates how long of a rear drop link you need.
#9
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
thanks all....
Is there another name for the drop links....would a mechanic call them "sway bar rods", and that he may have to modify them? I just to kknow if this mech knows what he is talking about....
I called 3 mechs around here including stealer...., and noone knew what a "drop link" was
sam
ps where can I get a second pair of locknuts for the rear spring perches
Is there another name for the drop links....would a mechanic call them "sway bar rods", and that he may have to modify them? I just to kknow if this mech knows what he is talking about....
I called 3 mechs around here including stealer...., and noone knew what a "drop link" was
sam
ps where can I get a second pair of locknuts for the rear spring perches
#11
thanks all....
Is there another name for the drop links....would a mechanic call them "sway bar rods", and that he may have to modify them? I just to kknow if this mech knows what he is talking about....
I called 3 mechs around here including stealer...., and noone knew what a "drop link" was
sam
ps where can I get a second pair of locknuts for the rear spring perches
Is there another name for the drop links....would a mechanic call them "sway bar rods", and that he may have to modify them? I just to kknow if this mech knows what he is talking about....
I called 3 mechs around here including stealer...., and noone knew what a "drop link" was
sam
ps where can I get a second pair of locknuts for the rear spring perches
Just checked Porsche catalog they call it stabilizer mounting... but they also call the sway bar mount to chassis bracket "stabilizer mounting". Very weird.
Last edited by GeoT3; 12-12-2007 at 06:47 PM.
#12
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My understanding is that you are limited in the amount you can lower the car without installing the RS drop links; otherwise, you will get horrible bump steer or will be riding on the bump stops. Simply put, you mess up the geometry of the suspension pieces if you lower the car too much. I could not quite lower my car to RS spec while maintaining the rake, without sacrificing and getting bump steer.
From my understanding, having or not having RS drop links doesn't have anything to do with bump steer; bump steer is more a function of the geometry of the front hubs and tie rod length.
#13
Refer the dealer to part #993 333 073 01 on illustration #501-01 in their PET. (marked as #5 on the diagram) This is the stock piece number. The US M030 number is also listed, but it is probably not what you're after as US ride height is much higher. At least you'll be able to see what it is. If you jack up the car and remove a rear wheel, you'll see it hanging downward from the shock body and connecting to the end of the sway bar.
As George said, they're called a "stabilizer mounting" in the PET and shouldn't be confused with the sway bar bushings, which are also labeled "stabilizer mounting" on that very same page.
I suppose that some know the same part by different names, much like "sway bar", "anti-sway bar" and "stabilizer bar" are the the same thing.
As George said, they're called a "stabilizer mounting" in the PET and shouldn't be confused with the sway bar bushings, which are also labeled "stabilizer mounting" on that very same page.
I suppose that some know the same part by different names, much like "sway bar", "anti-sway bar" and "stabilizer bar" are the the same thing.
#14
Rennlist Member
I'm not sure if my explanation will help, as my "understanding" of suspension bits is weak. But, having been through the process, maybe you can gleen something useful from it.
My understanding is that you are limited in the amount you can lower the car without installing the RS drop links; otherwise, you will get horrible bump steer or will be riding on the bump stops. Simply put, you mess up the geometry of the suspension pieces if you lower the car too much. I could not quite lower my car to RS spec while maintaining the rake, without sacrificing and getting bump steer. When I did lower to RS spec, I was riding on the bump stops in the front and got HORRIBLE bump steer. We raised the car back up to maintain the correct rake, and now it handles very well.
My understanding is that you are limited in the amount you can lower the car without installing the RS drop links; otherwise, you will get horrible bump steer or will be riding on the bump stops. Simply put, you mess up the geometry of the suspension pieces if you lower the car too much. I could not quite lower my car to RS spec while maintaining the rake, without sacrificing and getting bump steer. When I did lower to RS spec, I was riding on the bump stops in the front and got HORRIBLE bump steer. We raised the car back up to maintain the correct rake, and now it handles very well.
#15
I don't want to hijack this thread, but im considering doing the same thing to my C2, but using Einbach springs with the Bilstein HD shocks. Is there plus/minus with using M030 ROW springs vs. Einbach Springs? And for those of us doing this, it sounds like we only need 'drop links' for the rear suspension, correct?