Front wheel stud replacement
#1
Racer
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Front wheel stud replacement
I'm installing 7mm H&R spacers with longer studs on my front wheels. Couldn't find a DIY here. Someone posted that changing studs on the front was easy. Another post said that changing the rear required removing the hub and replacing the wheel bearing. And then another said that changing the front requires new front bearings.
Has anyone done this themselves? Any help would be appreciated.
Has anyone done this themselves? Any help would be appreciated.
#2
Seared
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I thought it's as easy as pounding the old ones out and then drawing the new ones into the hub using a lug nut and another, larger, nut as a bearing surface.
Andreas
Andreas
#3
Racer
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I think the real issue is whether you can pound them out and draw the new ones in with the hub on the car or if you have to remove the hub. That's where the wheel bearing replacement comes in (if you have to remove the hub - I think).
Just hoping that someone has DIY'd this and can give me some advice.
#5
Three Wheelin'
I had to replace a bad front stud not too long ago. I used a large 'C' clamp and a socket to squeeze on the stud while using a blow torch to heat up the hub area, not the stud. I don't recommend using a hammer. I also used a similar method to pull the new stud in. Torquing the wheel in place should fully seat the stud.
Good Luck!!!!
Good Luck!!!!
#6
Rennlist Member
A pneumatic impact hammer pops studs out in 1-2 seconds - no heating or collateral damage from missed hammer blows.
Use a sacrifical open end nut and a spacer stack of larger nuts & washers to draw the new studs tight; I prefer to do this on the bare hub to confirm the stud to be fully seated ( and to avoid cranking on the conical seat of the wheel). Switch the air line to an impact wrench to draw them through.
You will find the wheel issue to be academic, for the caliper and rotor should be removed to do this R&R.
Use a sacrifical open end nut and a spacer stack of larger nuts & washers to draw the new studs tight; I prefer to do this on the bare hub to confirm the stud to be fully seated ( and to avoid cranking on the conical seat of the wheel). Switch the air line to an impact wrench to draw them through.
You will find the wheel issue to be academic, for the caliper and rotor should be removed to do this R&R.
#7
Addict
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I just did this on the rear and it did not require removal of the hub. The brake disc and caliper had to be removed along with the parking brake. I suspect the same is true in front: remove caliper and rotor.
Greg H.
Greg H.
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#9
Racer
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Well, I went out today and gave it a try.
The old stud came out with a few quick taps with a 3lb soft blow hammer. There's enough space behind so that I didn't even have to remove the caliper.
Took out the old stud - BUT the new H&R "longer" stud was actually shorter than the stock one!!
Put the old stud back in and used a washer and open nut to "draw" it back into place. All in all, pretty simple.
Now ... just got to get longer studs.
The old stud came out with a few quick taps with a 3lb soft blow hammer. There's enough space behind so that I didn't even have to remove the caliper.
Took out the old stud - BUT the new H&R "longer" stud was actually shorter than the stock one!!
Put the old stud back in and used a washer and open nut to "draw" it back into place. All in all, pretty simple.
Now ... just got to get longer studs.
#11
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