Test only center failed on "functional test" HELP!!!
#1
Test only center failed on "functional test" HELP!!!
Hi all,
I ran test only center this morning that required by California DMV and fail on Functional Check.
The smoke mechanic said car computer had been reset and no codes been read. He asked had I reset my computer or power outage. Then I mentioned I recently replace the battery. He asked me for reset the computer into normal either by driving car for several miles or reset by Porsche mechanic.
I feel wired, I had mine for a year, the check engine light never came up. I don't think that is the reason to fail the test.
Did he failed the test with appropriate procedures? Any experienced smoke tech can chime in?
How can I make my car ready to pass test? Do I need a "hammer" to reset the computer as he said?If that is truth can someone live near San Francisco can borrower it?
Anyone have a honorable test only center to perform the test? I smell some fishy when testing is performed.
I can scan the smoke check report if anyone like to see it
Thanks in advance.
Keith
I ran test only center this morning that required by California DMV and fail on Functional Check.
The smoke mechanic said car computer had been reset and no codes been read. He asked had I reset my computer or power outage. Then I mentioned I recently replace the battery. He asked me for reset the computer into normal either by driving car for several miles or reset by Porsche mechanic.
I feel wired, I had mine for a year, the check engine light never came up. I don't think that is the reason to fail the test.
Did he failed the test with appropriate procedures? Any experienced smoke tech can chime in?
How can I make my car ready to pass test? Do I need a "hammer" to reset the computer as he said?If that is truth can someone live near San Francisco can borrower it?
Anyone have a honorable test only center to perform the test? I smell some fishy when testing is performed.
I can scan the smoke check report if anyone like to see it
Thanks in advance.
Keith
#4
When you replaced the battery, the emission monitors were reset. This prevents people from clearing any fault codes to get certified. And, the shop can't issue a smog cert if the monitors are in a "not ready" state. There's also a drive cycle that can be performed to set the monitors to "ready", but you need a lot of road and need to follow it exactly. Probably the best way to reset them is to get out and drive. It took me about 600 miles total doing a variety of city & highway driving.
BTW, here in California you can pay your registration fees without the smog cert to aviod any penalties. However, the DMV won't issue the tag until your car passes.
BTW, here in California you can pay your registration fees without the smog cert to aviod any penalties. However, the DMV won't issue the tag until your car passes.
#5
Hi all,
I ran test only center this morning that required by California DMV and fail on Functional Check.
The smoke mechanic said car computer had been reset and no codes been read. He asked had I reset my computer or power outage. Then I mentioned I recently replace the battery. He asked me for reset the computer into normal either by driving car for several miles or reset by Porsche mechanic.
I feel wired, I had mine for a year, the check engine light never came up. I don't think that is the reason to fail the test.
Did he failed the test with appropriate procedures? Any experienced smoke tech can chime in?
How can I make my car ready to pass test? Do I need a "hammer" to reset the computer as he said?If that is truth can someone live near San Francisco can borrower it?
Anyone have a honorable test only center to perform the test? I smell some fishy when testing is performed.
I can scan the smoke check report if anyone like to see it
Thanks in advance.
Keith
I ran test only center this morning that required by California DMV and fail on Functional Check.
The smoke mechanic said car computer had been reset and no codes been read. He asked had I reset my computer or power outage. Then I mentioned I recently replace the battery. He asked me for reset the computer into normal either by driving car for several miles or reset by Porsche mechanic.
I feel wired, I had mine for a year, the check engine light never came up. I don't think that is the reason to fail the test.
Did he failed the test with appropriate procedures? Any experienced smoke tech can chime in?
How can I make my car ready to pass test? Do I need a "hammer" to reset the computer as he said?If that is truth can someone live near San Francisco can borrower it?
Anyone have a honorable test only center to perform the test? I smell some fishy when testing is performed.
I can scan the smoke check report if anyone like to see it
Thanks in advance.
Keith
If they were helpful, they might have given you the driving sequence it takes to get various codes to "ready" state.
I bought a $40 OBDII reader so I could see when they were "ready". Saved me a couple of trips to the smog station since it didn't work the first time around. Simply driving hundreds of miles will likely not work since the type of driving it takes is really abnormal. Eventually, they would set but it could take a year
Do the sequence below (twice) and you will be good to go. This has become known as the "BMW" readiness code driving sequence since it was pulled form a BMW board, however, all OBDII cars have some sort of sequence required to test sensors and set to ready. The times on this list are overkill and will make it certain that they are set:
Start engine, idle cold for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.
Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.
Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.
Decelerate and come to a stop. Idle in gear for approx 5 mins.
Following the start engine phase the sequence of test conditions may be interchanged.
Routine will be discontinued whenever:
Engine speed exceeds 3000 RPM
Large fluctuations in throttle angle
Road speed exceeds 60 MPH
Note: on M/T cars you do NOT have to leave the car in gear with the clutch in for 5 minutes. Neutral works just fine.
Also, attached is the Posrche specific doc that covers the 993 requirements for code resets. Not quite as user friendly.
#6
Keith:
You have not said what year 96-98 993 you have.
For what ever reason, my experience either owning or helping local 993 folks is that the 1996 cars tend to be a bit more cranky to get all 6 codes set without the use of a Porsche PST2 diagnostics tester. The PST2 lets you set 2 of the 6 codes by running "short" tests for the SAI and cat functions. However...
If you don't even want to even mess with the readiness codes, the good news is that CA DMV / BAR has the 96-98 993 Porsche listed such that you can go straight to a referee station for testing.
Here in NorCal, the referee stations are usually found at Jr. College Auto Tech. facilities. Given this, the fees are a whopping $38.50, out the door.
Given the test only station pricing, this is a deal and gets you done in one stop. Personally, I have used the ref. station at College of Alameda and my P-Cars. My cars have been joined by some Ferarri's and Lambo's doing the same smog test routine while I was there.
If you have a 97 or 98, you can try the drive procedure, but I would not try it more than a couple of times before opting out for the ref. station option. It's just too easy ( and cheaper ).
$0.02
You have not said what year 96-98 993 you have.
For what ever reason, my experience either owning or helping local 993 folks is that the 1996 cars tend to be a bit more cranky to get all 6 codes set without the use of a Porsche PST2 diagnostics tester. The PST2 lets you set 2 of the 6 codes by running "short" tests for the SAI and cat functions. However...
If you don't even want to even mess with the readiness codes, the good news is that CA DMV / BAR has the 96-98 993 Porsche listed such that you can go straight to a referee station for testing.
Here in NorCal, the referee stations are usually found at Jr. College Auto Tech. facilities. Given this, the fees are a whopping $38.50, out the door.
Given the test only station pricing, this is a deal and gets you done in one stop. Personally, I have used the ref. station at College of Alameda and my P-Cars. My cars have been joined by some Ferarri's and Lambo's doing the same smog test routine while I was there.
If you have a 97 or 98, you can try the drive procedure, but I would not try it more than a couple of times before opting out for the ref. station option. It's just too easy ( and cheaper ).
$0.02
#7
Hi,
Here in NY - if the car's computer shows that the 'readiness codes' are NOT set -- then you fail. The DMV/testing station DOES NOT CARE that the car is 'fine' and that the CEL is OFF. The fact that the car is 'not READY for inspection' - is grounds enuf for a 'failure'. Harsh, yes, IMHO.
This 'not ready state' can happen as a result of installing a new battery or clearing a CEL (check engine light) condition with a code scanner or yanking the ECM fuse(s) etc.
The PO of my car, let the battery die, coz he just didn't drive it. It took OVER 800 miles of 'various types of driving' for me to get all (8) monitors to show 'ready'. Then and only then could I get it to fully pass. I have made bloody sure since then (3 years ago) to NEVER let the battery go bye-bye - using a trickle charger during the winter-time -- as most of us (on this forum do.)
It's a pity you didn't swop out the battery AFTER you had it inspected - then you'd have a YEAR to get the ECM to play-nice.
Oh well, lessons learned.
FWIW, a bunch of us have been thru' this -- so my advice is to do a SEARCH and get all the info you can/need on OBD-ii -- and those pesky readiness-monitors.
Gerry
Here in NY - if the car's computer shows that the 'readiness codes' are NOT set -- then you fail. The DMV/testing station DOES NOT CARE that the car is 'fine' and that the CEL is OFF. The fact that the car is 'not READY for inspection' - is grounds enuf for a 'failure'. Harsh, yes, IMHO.
This 'not ready state' can happen as a result of installing a new battery or clearing a CEL (check engine light) condition with a code scanner or yanking the ECM fuse(s) etc.
The PO of my car, let the battery die, coz he just didn't drive it. It took OVER 800 miles of 'various types of driving' for me to get all (8) monitors to show 'ready'. Then and only then could I get it to fully pass. I have made bloody sure since then (3 years ago) to NEVER let the battery go bye-bye - using a trickle charger during the winter-time -- as most of us (on this forum do.)
It's a pity you didn't swop out the battery AFTER you had it inspected - then you'd have a YEAR to get the ECM to play-nice.
Oh well, lessons learned.
FWIW, a bunch of us have been thru' this -- so my advice is to do a SEARCH and get all the info you can/need on OBD-ii -- and those pesky readiness-monitors.
Gerry
Trending Topics
#9
Do not waste your time trying to reset your codes by doing endless "drive arounds"..
How can you maintain speed of 20-40mph for 3 minutes? Unless you live on an airport runway..
Go to the referee station. It will save you a lot of grief.
B
How can you maintain speed of 20-40mph for 3 minutes? Unless you live on an airport runway..
Go to the referee station. It will save you a lot of grief.
B
#10
I don't live near or on a runway, wasn't a problem. Took 2 shots at it and about 30 minutes of my life... wasn't too traumatic.
Driving sequence is what sets the readiness codes.
Most "normal" driving won't.
See sequence above.
Or go to a referee station... whatever floats yer boat.
#11
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 5,209
Likes: 370
From: Agoura Hills (Los Angeles) California