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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 07:30 PM
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Default ?resistors for blower delete?

anyone got a current source for these?
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 08:10 PM
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Excuse my nubieness, if you delete the blower why do you need a resistor? We are talking about the oil fan?
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 08:15 PM
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blower delete




the oil cooler and AC condenser both have fans, but you don't want to delete them.
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 09:11 PM
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Oh, I like that, what's the CF pipe cost? How much weight did it remove? Down sides?

My first thought was you were doing a constant on for the oil cooler fan, or removing the heater fan.
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 09:19 PM
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Hmm.. I did the mod.. I installed the resistors, I gotta search for the values.. Let me see-

Coleman.
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Stealth 993
Oh, I like that, what's the CF pipe cost? How much weight did it remove? Down sides?

My first thought was you were doing a constant on for the oil cooler fan, or removing the heater fan.
c/f duct was ~$100 don't know what it is now, also have the stock RS plastic one which is lighter. Don't know the weight of the blower delete maybe ~10#, no down side.

Dual coolers, no heat issues
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Coleman
Hmm.. I did the mod.. I installed the resistors, I gotta search for the values.. Let me see-

Coleman.
51 ohm 15 watt wirewound resistor
&
18K ohm 2 watt resistor

I just need a source
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 09:22 PM
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Ah yes.. So, to fool the system, two resistors were used - one for the motor and one for the temperature sensor. (Thanks to Adrian Streather and Chris Duffey who provided guidance on determining the correct wattages). For the motor, a 51 ohm 15 watt wirewound resistor (#1 in picture below) works, and it does get warm to the touch when the heat is on. The temperature sensor is the wire going into the top of your existing air pipe. This senses the temperature, and sends the fan into overdrive if the airflow gets too warm. An 18K ohm 2 watt resistor (#2 in picture) is used, which tells the computer it's around 40 degrees F. The last resistor (#3 in picture) is the long one with the curly metal wire that's stuck in the side of the original air pipe. It's there to break the electrical circuit should the motor develop a short, so, for simplicity, it was left alone.

http://www.porsche964.co.uk/technical/noheater.htm

Coleman.
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 09:23 PM
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Oh, I understand.. Sorry Bill..

Try

Mouser.com

Coleman.
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Old Oct 24, 2007 | 11:52 PM
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Bill - I found them at a local electronics shop. I might be able to stop by in the next week or so if you need.
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Don Plumley
Bill - I found them at a local electronics shop. I might be able to stop by in the next week or so if you need.
thanks for the offer Don, let me look around a bit more
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 10:18 AM
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Just got a lead on a local source
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 11:46 AM
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Bill, thanks! This looks like something that I want to do. Both the extra cooler & the blower delete.
Where can the CF pipe be sourced from?
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 11:53 AM
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FYI,

I don't have the blower but didn't put any resistors. Just zip tied everything to the side of the engine compartment. No issues.

I also used to have c/f pipe put removed that too since with that some of the cooling air from the fan is "wasted" thorugh that.
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Old Oct 25, 2007 | 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Flying Finn
FYI,

I don't have the blower but didn't put any resistors. Just zip tied everything to the side of the engine compartment. No issues.

I also used to have c/f pipe put removed that too since with that some of the cooling air from the fan is "wasted" thorugh that.
hmmm.

I've been chasing down a code the is thrown at every start. Using my "hammer" emulator, I can read and clear them. The pesky code is for the rear blower which is not there.

heat & AC do work fine

I just assumed that the resistors are shot
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