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Oh, I like that, what's the CF pipe cost? How much weight did it remove? Down sides?
My first thought was you were doing a constant on for the oil cooler fan, or removing the heater fan.
c/f duct was ~$100 don't know what it is now, also have the stock RS plastic one which is lighter. Don't know the weight of the blower delete maybe ~10#, no down side.
Ah yes.. So, to fool the system, two resistors were used - one for the motor and one for the temperature sensor. (Thanks to Adrian Streather and Chris Duffey who provided guidance on determining the correct wattages). For the motor, a 51 ohm 15 watt wirewound resistor (#1 in picture below) works, and it does get warm to the touch when the heat is on. The temperature sensor is the wire going into the top of your existing air pipe. This senses the temperature, and sends the fan into overdrive if the airflow gets too warm. An 18K ohm 2 watt resistor (#2 in picture) is used, which tells the computer it's around 40 degrees F. The last resistor (#3 in picture) is the long one with the curly metal wire that's stuck in the side of the original air pipe. It's there to break the electrical circuit should the motor develop a short, so, for simplicity, it was left alone.
I don't have the blower but didn't put any resistors. Just zip tied everything to the side of the engine compartment. No issues.
I also used to have c/f pipe put removed that too since with that some of the cooling air from the fan is "wasted" thorugh that.
hmmm.
I've been chasing down a code the is thrown at every start. Using my "hammer" emulator, I can read and clear them. The pesky code is for the rear blower which is not there.