Marlon

Well - completed a nice, tidy oil cooler ballast resistor change and the cooler fan still does not work. Relay ok (swapped with it's sister relay) and fuze ok (visually checked). Cooler is nice and HOT so it is getting oil. Temp needle will go to 10:00 or so idling in the garage, but if I drive it, it will go down to 9:00. Any ideas? In order to check the electrical connection at the cooler fan motor, does the connection simply pull apart or do you have to squeeze some fittings to allow it to come apart. I can't really get my head in there to tell by observing it from the fender lip.

jimbo3

I'm not familiar with the connections, but would you be able to run 12 volts directly to the fan to test to make sure that it's not the fan that died? No sense in replacing everything along the path if the fan no workie!

NP993

The DIY on p-car.com has instructions for jumpering the relay to get the fan to run.

rwestervelt

You can remove the passenger side headlight and unplug the oil temperture sender. (I tied the wire and connector up so it did not get caught in the fan.)

Then switch the ignition on and wait for 60 seconds. The fan should come on. I ran mine this way for several weeks until I installed the override switch.

chris walrod

Did you bypass the relay as outlined on p-car.com?

Ed Burdell

That's how I've been running for a year and a half now. I have peace of mind now whenever I get caught in traffic on a hot Atlanta day that I won't cook my engine.

Even with the fan running on high from the get-go, the oil gets up to temp without too much delay, which was the motive for the two speed fan in the first place, I believe.

Bill Verburg

You could always install one of these and be done w/ it

Amfab

Marlon have you considered that the cooler is dirty and clogged? See https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ean+oil+cooler

DBYT

Had the same issue as you about 6 months ago and it turned out to be the oil temp sender. Now fixed.

chris walrod

Do you still have the black car? If so, maybe you can swap CCU's to see if the problem follows the CCU or not??

rwestervelt

Given the fact that the balast resistor is new and you can jumper the relay so the fan runs at high and low speed, the temperature sender seems like the mostly likely culprit.

Rick Lee

Subscribing.

ppressle

Are you sure it is broken? My low speed fan does not come on until somewhere just before 10:00. Looking at the pcar diagnostics, that seems to be the norm. Surprisingly warm. My justification is that they want the oil to get above 100c to boil out the moisture.

Is that not what other folks are seeing?

There was a thread where folks were talking about adding in a resistor in series with the sender to trick the ccu into turning the fan on sooner.

Pete

ppressle

Bill,

Which cooler is that? Cargraphic/Ruf?

It looks perfect.

Thanks,
Pete

Bill Verburg

I bought it from Gert, they all buy from somewhere else, perhaps Porsche. The brackets bolt up to the AC condenser and swap the fan,