Oh Yeah! I fixed my "immobilizer" problem
08-30-2007, 08:01 PM
#1
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Oh Yeah! I fixed my "immobilizer" problem
A little history......
My car has had no less than 4 immobilizers in its life. Only one was for a no start condition. In the other cases, the dealer replaced them due to the unit failing to go into program mode. Once it was under parts warranty. This was all by previous owner.....
Sure enough, when I purchased my car, it only had one remote so I bought a second one and attempted to program. I won't bore you with the details, but it would never go into program mode (begin to flash). I restore older cars and love DIY so I was a little disaapointed in myself.
Took it to Holberts (Dealer), they tried, hooked up their tools, the whole nine. Told me that the system needed to be diagnosed but it was likely a bad immobilizer. Took the car to Dougherty Automotive (great guys), they tried and failed as well.
So I bought a used immobilizer off EBAY (for $9.00) and hooked it up. It did the same thing as the old one. no flash!
My car must have a fluky ignition switch
THE SOLUTION-- When turning the ignition back (as per the program instructions), I turned only just enough to turn off the fanbelt light and then immediately back again. Anything more and the car failed to recognize it. I actually practiced the flick of the wrist and got it down pat before running through the sequence. I am talking about hairs difference and it won't work. For those of you with similar problems, TRY IT OUT AS I DESCRIBED.....
So now, I got two remotes for my everyday use and one extra immobilizer with a remote programed to match just in case my regular unit fails
It's a great day
My car has had no less than 4 immobilizers in its life. Only one was for a no start condition. In the other cases, the dealer replaced them due to the unit failing to go into program mode. Once it was under parts warranty. This was all by previous owner.....
Sure enough, when I purchased my car, it only had one remote so I bought a second one and attempted to program. I won't bore you with the details, but it would never go into program mode (begin to flash). I restore older cars and love DIY so I was a little disaapointed in myself.
Took it to Holberts (Dealer), they tried, hooked up their tools, the whole nine. Told me that the system needed to be diagnosed but it was likely a bad immobilizer. Took the car to Dougherty Automotive (great guys), they tried and failed as well.
So I bought a used immobilizer off EBAY (for $9.00) and hooked it up. It did the same thing as the old one. no flash!
My car must have a fluky ignition switch
THE SOLUTION-- When turning the ignition back (as per the program instructions), I turned only just enough to turn off the fanbelt light and then immediately back again. Anything more and the car failed to recognize it. I actually practiced the flick of the wrist and got it down pat before running through the sequence. I am talking about hairs difference and it won't work. For those of you with similar problems, TRY IT OUT AS I DESCRIBED.....
So now, I got two remotes for my everyday use and one extra immobilizer with a remote programed to match just in case my regular unit fails
It's a great day
08-30-2007, 08:06 PM
#2
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I have 4 spare remotes for my similar trial and error. But I'm an expert now. And never paid the dealer for it.
08-30-2007, 08:23 PM
#3
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08-30-2007, 10:23 PM
#5
Race Car
I changed my batteries today in my remote. I have a LOT more range now, like 25-30 feet. My car came with two remotes, one was not working. I finally got around t putting a fresh battery in the second one, and it doesn't light up when I push the button. It seems to have some corrosion inside also. I assume it's toast. SO,
Wanna sell one????
08-31-2007, 09:24 AM
#6
Race Car
09-29-2007, 05:07 PM
#7
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A little history......
My car has had no less than 4 immobilizers in its life. Only one was for a no start condition. In the other cases, the dealer replaced them due to the unit failing to go into program mode. Once it was under parts warranty. This was all by previous owner.....
Sure enough, when I purchased my car, it only had one remote so I bought a second one and attempted to program. I won't bore you with the details, but it would never go into program mode (begin to flash). I restore older cars and love DIY so I was a little disaapointed in myself.
Took it to Holberts (Dealer), they tried, hooked up their tools, the whole nine. Told me that the system needed to be diagnosed but it was likely a bad immobilizer. Took the car to Dougherty Automotive (great guys), they tried and failed as well.
So I bought a used immobilizer off EBAY (for $9.00) and hooked it up. It did the same thing as the old one. no flash!
My car must have a fluky ignition switch
THE SOLUTION-- When turning the ignition back (as per the program instructions), I turned only just enough to turn off the fanbelt light and then immediately back again. Anything more and the car failed to recognize it. I actually practiced the flick of the wrist and got it down pat before running through the sequence. I am talking about hairs difference and it won't work. For those of you with similar problems, TRY IT OUT AS I DESCRIBED.....
So now, I got two remotes for my everyday use and one extra immobilizer with a remote programed to match just in case my regular unit fails
It's a great day
My car has had no less than 4 immobilizers in its life. Only one was for a no start condition. In the other cases, the dealer replaced them due to the unit failing to go into program mode. Once it was under parts warranty. This was all by previous owner.....
Sure enough, when I purchased my car, it only had one remote so I bought a second one and attempted to program. I won't bore you with the details, but it would never go into program mode (begin to flash). I restore older cars and love DIY so I was a little disaapointed in myself.
Took it to Holberts (Dealer), they tried, hooked up their tools, the whole nine. Told me that the system needed to be diagnosed but it was likely a bad immobilizer. Took the car to Dougherty Automotive (great guys), they tried and failed as well.
So I bought a used immobilizer off EBAY (for $9.00) and hooked it up. It did the same thing as the old one. no flash!
My car must have a fluky ignition switch
THE SOLUTION-- When turning the ignition back (as per the program instructions), I turned only just enough to turn off the fanbelt light and then immediately back again. Anything more and the car failed to recognize it. I actually practiced the flick of the wrist and got it down pat before running through the sequence. I am talking about hairs difference and it won't work. For those of you with similar problems, TRY IT OUT AS I DESCRIBED.....
So now, I got two remotes for my everyday use and one extra immobilizer with a remote programed to match just in case my regular unit fails
It's a great day
any chance you want to sell your spare immobilizer? I'm in a situation where mine has been changed, I don't have the code and I only have one remote.
Thanks,
Ron
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09-29-2007, 07:15 PM
#8
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09-29-2007, 10:18 PM
#9
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BTW, the code is stamped on top of the module .... 4 digits on lower right. If good with a mirror, check under the drivers seat - but double check 6's and 9's
09-30-2007, 01:18 PM
#10
"BTW, the code is stamped on top of the module .... 4 digits on lower right. "
Porsche NEVER stamped the code on the ECU. That's why it comes with a
removeable tag with the code number, otherwise if it were stamped ANYONE
could program their remote to the car, i.e. if stolen.
Porsche NEVER stamped the code on the ECU. That's why it comes with a
removeable tag with the code number, otherwise if it were stamped ANYONE
could program their remote to the car, i.e. if stolen.
09-30-2007, 03:40 PM
#11
Race Car
"BTW, the code is stamped on top of the module .... 4 digits on lower right. "
Porsche NEVER stamped the code on the ECU. That's why it comes with a
removeable tag with the code number, otherwise if it were stamped ANYONE
could program their remote to the car, i.e. if stolen.
Porsche NEVER stamped the code on the ECU. That's why it comes with a
removeable tag with the code number, otherwise if it were stamped ANYONE
could program their remote to the car, i.e. if stolen.
Do you know if it is possible to disable the immobilizer system keeping the remote open/lock capability?
09-30-2007, 08:41 PM
#12
I have been told that Steve Weiner can disable the immobilizer when he is repreogramming the fuel-ignition curve. However, I also recall that the remote door-locking system is also disabled in this modification.
Charlie
Charlie
09-30-2007, 09:27 PM
#13
Rennlist Member
Porsche NEVER stamped the code on the ECU. That's why it comes with a
removeable tag with the code number, otherwise if it were stamped ANYONE
could program their remote to the car, i.e. if stolen.
removeable tag with the code number, otherwise if it were stamped ANYONE
could program their remote to the car, i.e. if stolen.
The Sr Tech of our local dealership very recently had a customers 993 ... sans keys, which had unfortunately been stolen: they contacted me, knowing that I had a spare imob. module ... hoping that it had the code attached as described. For some inexplicable reason, they seemed to believe that that number sequence to be important - and equivalent to the key programming code.
The story became longer and more complicated, but strangely enough, following that line of 'code', the car was successfully started. I can only assume that they worked with a different version of "NEVER".
09-30-2007, 10:09 PM
#14
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So Garth....
do you still have the "spare immobilizer" with the 4 digit code and if so, are you willing to part with it? I have checked my immobilizer upside down and sideways and I don't see a 4 digit coder stamped anywhere.
Ron
do you still have the "spare immobilizer" with the 4 digit code and if so, are you willing to part with it? I have checked my immobilizer upside down and sideways and I don't see a 4 digit coder stamped anywhere.
Ron
10-01-2007, 08:47 AM
#15
Rennlist Member
Ron,
I zapped my module off to the dealer, as I was only 100Km away ( we are in a remote corner ...
) and they were in a jam. I will be there later this week and determine if my module was installed - all I know is that the car started.It may be entirely correct that the code is not printed on the module as was stated; however, the dealer firmly indicated that the last 4 digits on the lower right of the paper label with 993 618 159 02 as the header .... were the initilization code.