soliciting 2cts worth on clutch slave cylinder DIY...
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
soliciting 2cts worth on clutch slave cylinder DIY...
...Calling all folks that have done this - and folks that would like to watch:
Is it doeable on regular jackstands? Must you lift both ends or just the rear? I had the car up on stands last weekend and decided that this job would TRULY sU*k on my back and I chickened out on the spot. (After I had just spent an hour on my back replacing the two shifter bushings under the car - nice shifter now:^)
What do shops normally charge for this? I called ASG here in Fairfax and I thought the guy was kidding when he said he would have to charge me MORE since I already had parts?!?!?
I think I can do this, but would really rather do it on a scissors lift - anybody got a scissors in N. VA and want to supervise me doing this???
Is it doeable on regular jackstands? Must you lift both ends or just the rear? I had the car up on stands last weekend and decided that this job would TRULY sU*k on my back and I chickened out on the spot. (After I had just spent an hour on my back replacing the two shifter bushings under the car - nice shifter now:^)
What do shops normally charge for this? I called ASG here in Fairfax and I thought the guy was kidding when he said he would have to charge me MORE since I already had parts?!?!?
I think I can do this, but would really rather do it on a scissors lift - anybody got a scissors in N. VA and want to supervise me doing this???
#2
Seared
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Marlon,
I would highly recommend doing this with the car on four very secure jackstands. Access and safety is better this way. If we were more moved in, I'd say bring it over and we could do it in my shop. If I were to pull this stunt right now, my marriage would be in serious jeopardy.
BTW, I changed mine with the car on stands.
Andreas
I would highly recommend doing this with the car on four very secure jackstands. Access and safety is better this way. If we were more moved in, I'd say bring it over and we could do it in my shop. If I were to pull this stunt right now, my marriage would be in serious jeopardy.
BTW, I changed mine with the car on stands.
Andreas
#3
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Not that hard to do...However, there is a past post from Viper Bob where he explained about using a "spot" for a hand hold that makes pushing the clutch plunger back-in some what easier. I happened to find the post after some smashed hands. All and all I think I spent about two slow hrs. on it.
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
cool - I may try again using all suggestions. I've looked at the DIY's and this one seems like a real pain...
#6
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Yes, remove the heater tube and its OK. You really have to push on the body to fight the spring action so that enough threads from the studs are exposed to put the nuts on. That is the trick ; you are holding the slave in one hand pressing it up and the other hand has a washer and nut ; you have to place the washer, then the nut all by feel since you can't see anything.
OK, time to brag. Every since I got the two post lift this is nice and easy. Its amazing how different the experience is when you can either stand upright or sit on a mobile stool whle wrapping your hands around to the top of the transmission. Regardless removing the heater tube and getting into the correct position makes it easy. You also need to be comfortable when bleeding the system since you have to reach wayyy up to the bleed nipple. Run some clear tubing off the nipple into a glass jar, have someone in the car and pump away. Watch to make sure you don't run the fluid down.
Oh, here is what I used to do for safety when I was using jacks/stands. I would have the car up on jackstands, put another set next to them as well as have my large reach jacks at each end of the car with a tiny bit of lift pressure on them. Its a redundant system, you have to make sure that you have something that can support the car backing up the jackstands. Then you can lie under the car in comfort. With a two post lift is similar in that you only go under the car when its in a resting position on one if its locks. This way if the lock fails the cylinders will tension and catch the weight (or at least that is the theory).
Cheers,
Mike
OK, time to brag. Every since I got the two post lift this is nice and easy. Its amazing how different the experience is when you can either stand upright or sit on a mobile stool whle wrapping your hands around to the top of the transmission. Regardless removing the heater tube and getting into the correct position makes it easy. You also need to be comfortable when bleeding the system since you have to reach wayyy up to the bleed nipple. Run some clear tubing off the nipple into a glass jar, have someone in the car and pump away. Watch to make sure you don't run the fluid down.
Oh, here is what I used to do for safety when I was using jacks/stands. I would have the car up on jackstands, put another set next to them as well as have my large reach jacks at each end of the car with a tiny bit of lift pressure on them. Its a redundant system, you have to make sure that you have something that can support the car backing up the jackstands. Then you can lie under the car in comfort. With a two post lift is similar in that you only go under the car when its in a resting position on one if its locks. This way if the lock fails the cylinders will tension and catch the weight (or at least that is the theory).
Cheers,
Mike
#7
Drifting
Thread Starter
Yes, remove the heater tube and its OK. You really have to push on the body to fight the spring action so that enough threads from the studs are exposed to put the nuts on. That is the trick ; you are holding the slave in one hand pressing it up and the other hand has a washer and nut ; you have to place the washer, then the nut all by feel since you can't see anything.
OK, time to brag. Every since I got the two post lift this is nice and easy. Its amazing how different the experience is when you can either stand upright or sit on a mobile stool whle wrapping your hands around to the top of the transmission. Regardless removing the heater tube and getting into the correct position makes it easy. You also need to be comfortable when bleeding the system since you have to reach wayyy up to the bleed nipple. Run some clear tubing off the nipple into a glass jar, have someone in the car and pump away. Watch to make sure you don't run the fluid down.
Oh, here is what I used to do for safety when I was using jacks/stands. I would have the car up on jackstands, put another set next to them as well as have my large reach jacks at each end of the car with a tiny bit of lift pressure on them. Its a redundant system, you have to make sure that you have something that can support the car backing up the jackstands. Then you can lie under the car in comfort. With a two post lift is similar in that you only go under the car when its in a resting position on one if its locks. This way if the lock fails the cylinders will tension and catch the weight (or at least that is the theory).
Cheers,
Mike
OK, time to brag. Every since I got the two post lift this is nice and easy. Its amazing how different the experience is when you can either stand upright or sit on a mobile stool whle wrapping your hands around to the top of the transmission. Regardless removing the heater tube and getting into the correct position makes it easy. You also need to be comfortable when bleeding the system since you have to reach wayyy up to the bleed nipple. Run some clear tubing off the nipple into a glass jar, have someone in the car and pump away. Watch to make sure you don't run the fluid down.
Oh, here is what I used to do for safety when I was using jacks/stands. I would have the car up on jackstands, put another set next to them as well as have my large reach jacks at each end of the car with a tiny bit of lift pressure on them. Its a redundant system, you have to make sure that you have something that can support the car backing up the jackstands. Then you can lie under the car in comfort. With a two post lift is similar in that you only go under the car when its in a resting position on one if its locks. This way if the lock fails the cylinders will tension and catch the weight (or at least that is the theory).
Cheers,
Mike
Maybe I'll get up the nerve to do it this weekend if I don;t start on the finish. I want to replace the short hose too
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#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
Marlon,
I would highly recommend doing this with the car on four very secure jackstands. Access and safety is better this way. If we were more moved in, I'd say bring it over and we could do it in my shop. If I were to pull this stunt right now, my marriage would be in serious jeopardy.
BTW, I changed mine with the car on stands.
Andreas
I would highly recommend doing this with the car on four very secure jackstands. Access and safety is better this way. If we were more moved in, I'd say bring it over and we could do it in my shop. If I were to pull this stunt right now, my marriage would be in serious jeopardy.
BTW, I changed mine with the car on stands.
Andreas
Andreas - thanks for the offer! I still want to tackle the struts/shocks and front LCA's though! Think we could get through all that in a day???
#10
Drifting
Thread Starter
#12
Drifting
Thread Starter
That's kind of EXACTLY what I am doing. 18" solid Porsche twists with 90% P-zero Asyms in the garage. I love the handling of the Asyms & twists and ride quality of these LOL
#13
Race Director
YMMV
#14
Drifting
Thread Starter
I don't think I would want to try this on my scissor lift, too much of the lift hardware in the way. You would be better off doing this on a 4 post lift or jackstands on the floor. I found it easier to slide under the car from the passenger side and reaching up and around from that side.
YMMV
YMMV
#15
Racer
MikeJ - I am going to need Dr J's help along with his lift soon as my Slave Cylinder is really making a racket and sometimes sluggish on the return.