trying to close a deal and due to previously flat battery, readiness codes = not ready
search function tells me this is pretty common.

is this process still the "best" to reset"?

OBD-II Readiness Driving Cycle
One of the most common problems with OBD-II cars ('96-0n) are smog test failures due to readiness codes not set and the ECU will test as "Not Ready".
Here are some procedures for setting all 9 readiness codes in OBD-II ECU's. These "Diagnostic Trip" steps MUST be followed to the letter otherwise you will have to start all over again. Review these carefully so you can see what you will be doing before you begin.
1) Start cold engine and idle for approximately 2 minutes, 10 seconds. This checks secondary air injection and evaporative leak detection systems.
2) Accelerate to 20-30 MPH and maintain steady speed for 3 minutes, 15 seconds. This establishes closed loop oxy-sensor operations, response times & switching times.
3) Accelerate to 40-60 MPH and maintain steady speed for 15-20 minutes. This evaluates catalytic converters while oxy-sensor response and switching times are checked.
4) De-accelerate and come to a stop. Idle in gear for 5-6 minutes. This checks evaporative leak detection system.
Remember:
The diagnostic checks above will be discontinued if:
1) Engine speeds exceed 3000 RPM
2) Large fluctuations in throttle position
3) Road speeds exceed 60 MPH


IDLE IN GEAR FOR 5 MINUTES?????????????????????? with a 6 speed?????????????????
that seems crazy!

thanks

Craig

 

How much has the present owner driven since the battery was replaced? How many codes are not ready? If nothing's wrong with the car codes should reset themselves. However I've completed the cycle you describe with success with a friend's '96 TT, including leaving it in gear(clutch in) for 5 minutes.

 

Shut the CEL off, go get on the 5 and drive for 100 miles each way (uninterrupted) with RPM's over 3K. The end of the trip should end up at the closest and most convenient test station to the freeway. Your read codes should be set.

 

I bought a cheap reader that allows erasing and also shows readiness codes for $39 bucks at harbor freight.
I then just went back and forth to work 20 miles each way for a couple of days. I would check every for readiness every time I pulled in to park at home or work. After a couple of days they reset, I headed for a smog place, but got a CEL on the way. This happened twice. The third time I checked coming home one night as I pulled into the garage. I went to my computer looked up the closest smog station at http://www.smogcheck.ca.gov/StationL...ationList.aspx
I found one 2 miles away, took it in first thing in the morning and passed. The CEL came on 15 miles later.

 

At the request of many, I posted a thread on the DIY forum with the link to the BMW readiness set routine I and others have used successfully for years on the 993.

https://rennlist.com/forums/diy-993-1995-1998/364352-993-bmw-readiness-code-set-routine.html

 

The Porsche specific procedure for setting the readiness codes can be found HERE.

 

+1, I am one who successfully used this procedure to set my R.C.'s.

The firs time I tried setting them I used the "drive hard w/ frequent excursions over 4k RPM" method but they did not set. One Sun. morning w/ a 45 min drive w/ ecobb's procedure and they set fine.

 

My readiness codes dropped after a top end rebuild. I didn't even try to reset them. For smog I went to the smog check referee at Miramar college (A fellow rennlister suggested this). Worked great, was cheaper, very professional. I'm in Carlsbad also. Send me a PM if you're interested in the procedure.

 

I need help with this. There is no way in the world I can do the procedure listed in the first post. After starting my car cold, I have to navigate my way out of my neighborhood, have several stop signs and red lights to wait for. I just failed emissions today because my readiness codes had not reset after 500 miles of all kinds of driving after I replaced all four O2 sensors and cleared my CEL. Now I am worried. How in the world can I realistically reset my codes to pass emissions?

 

Also, in that Porsche service manual page, under "Load:" what does "ms" stand for?

 

Rick, follow what I suggested above. But first, start the car, wait a few minutes for the SAI pump sequence to cycle, then shut off the CEL, or shut it off once out of the 'hood and on clear road. I have tried the above a couple of times and actually need to do it again and it works. I also tend to leave my A/C in the "on" position. Not sure of the relevance but hey...... You need to find wide open road where you can keep a constant speed for at least 60+ miles each way.

 

I am sure I've done at least 100 miles constantly without the rpm's going below 3000. I normally cruise at 3500-4000 and redline it all the time. I would think that after 500 miles of all types of driving they would be reset by now. But from the manual, it looks like I need 5 min. of very low rpm driving. It also says the reset is interrupted when engine speed goes out the specified range, but picks up where it left off when back in range. I must have a total of 5-6 min. of low rpms somehow. I know I've spent that much time in 1st gear in stop and go traffic.

 

The trick is constant movement at one speed. I do 80 mph for 1 1/2 hours each way with no variation and I think thats the trick! I've tried all the sequences that everyone posts and they don't work (for me anyway), so I found this to work and will stick with it until it stops working

 

If you continue to have problems w/ the procedure you're using I recommend you try "ecobb's" procedure he posted the link to above. One big difference I see is you're trying to stay ABOVE 3k RPM where ecobb's BMW procedure states you DON'T want to go over 3k RPM.

Also, w/ the BMW procedure you don't have to do the steps exactly one step after another, as long as you don't rev. over 3K RPM or shut the car down you can do the next step as the road becomes available. It took me less than 1 hr. to drive that routine.

 

Load is expressed in milliseconds and the problem I think a lot of people are having is that there is not a one-to-one relationship between load and the amount of throttle opening. Looking at the load ranges in the TSB, you will pretty much have to lug the engine to set all the readiness codes. So I'm not sure I would even try without a hammer, PST2 or PiWiS.