Motive Bleeder help needed
#1
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Motive Bleeder help needed
I have read the excellent DIY on using the bleeder and I've bled brakes the old fashion way, but the motive is hanging me up. Before doing the 993, I thought I'd use my 93 land cruiser as a test mule. The fluid was filthy and needed changing. Here is my procedure: I used a baster to get out some old fluid, put in fresh fluid, filled the motive power bleeder, attached the "universal cap" because the porsche screw on cap doesn't fit a toyota, pumped up to 15 psi. It help pressure. I had to use a 6 point socket to break the drain nipple, them attached the drain hose to an empty bottle. No fluid comes out when I loosened the nipple! Not a drop. I keep loosening until I see fluid escaping around the base of the nipple. What am I doing wrong? Some additional observations: (1)the fluid stream from the PB to the MC is not continuous. In other words, there was fluid moving in the tube, but not all the air was displaced.(2) I only had the nipple unscrewed for about 30 seconds, was that not long enough? In the past, the fluid, with some bubbles, comes right out. I did not have any fluid in the bottom of the catch container, so I do not know if air was coming out. Help please!
#2
Weathergirl
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No fluid comes out when I loosened the nipple! Not a drop. I keep loosening until I see fluid escaping around the base of the nipple.
#3
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+1 on Rally Jon's
advice....personally, I don't put ANY fluid into the Motive Bleeder bottle...I use it for pressure only. I have found that the Motive with fluid residue is a mess waiting to happen. The turkey baster is a good way to go to initialize the bleeding process.
I do one corner, de-pressurize the container, add fluid, pressure it up again to 1 bar and continue around the car.
I do one corner, de-pressurize the container, add fluid, pressure it up again to 1 bar and continue around the car.
#4
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It appears that the Land Cruisers brake bleeder(s) may be plugged up - defeating a routine fluid purge.
Disconnect the pressure bleeder, and use a stick to depress the brake pedal an inch or two .... and pull the brake light fuse or the wire on the microswitch activated by the brake pedal: this is to close off the port in the MC to prevent draining the system while you service the bleeders - and to save the brake lights/battery.
Remove brake bleeders ( and clutch bleeder if req'd) to either clear them out or replace. Actually, if replacing them, don't bother with the stick & fuse.
Disconnect the pressure bleeder, and use a stick to depress the brake pedal an inch or two .... and pull the brake light fuse or the wire on the microswitch activated by the brake pedal: this is to close off the port in the MC to prevent draining the system while you service the bleeders - and to save the brake lights/battery.
Remove brake bleeders ( and clutch bleeder if req'd) to either clear them out or replace. Actually, if replacing them, don't bother with the stick & fuse.
#5
Seared
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Originally Posted by Martin S.
advice....personally, I don't put ANY fluid into the Motive Bleeder bottle...I use it for pressure only. I have found that the Motive with fluid residue is a mess waiting to happen. The turkey baster is a good way to go to initialize the bleeding process.
I do one corner, de-pressurize the container, add fluid, pressure it up again to 1 bar and continue around the car.
I do one corner, de-pressurize the container, add fluid, pressure it up again to 1 bar and continue around the car.
+1
Andreas
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Forgive my ignorance: What's the advantage of an empty-but-pressurized Motive Bleeder?
Seems that any advantage is greatly outweighed by the risk of accidently emptying the MC resevoir, ingesting air and starting over with more fresh $11 per liter brake fluid...
Seems that any advantage is greatly outweighed by the risk of accidently emptying the MC resevoir, ingesting air and starting over with more fresh $11 per liter brake fluid...
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#8
Three Wheelin'
Do yourself a favor and just replace all the nipples. If the old nipples are clogged then it likely won't be long before one gets corroded and freezes.
Depressurise the system, unscrew the old ones and replace with new (one at a time). You'll get a little fluid coming out with each replacement but that's good as it will help keep the line clean. Flush and rebleed and you're done.
Depressurise the system, unscrew the old ones and replace with new (one at a time). You'll get a little fluid coming out with each replacement but that's good as it will help keep the line clean. Flush and rebleed and you're done.
#10
Weathergirl
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Originally Posted by dcdude68
Forgive my ignorance: What's the advantage of an empty-but-pressurized Motive Bleeder?
Also, cleaning it is a PITA.
And it wastes a lot of fluid.
#11
Drifting
Sounds like your rubber brake lines are clogged or collapsed. You need 21 psi through the Motive though or it won't work right. Try it again with 21 psi. If that does not work, remove the bleeder nipple. If that does not work it sounds like you have a collapsed brake hose. BTW: the Motive system will NOT work on ABS equipped Land Rovers. It will work on Non-ABS Land Rovers. Iused it very successfully on my 91' Range Rover, but cannot use it on my 99' Range Rover. It works great on my 911's though. OBTW2 - My system is not 'Motive'. Mine requires pressure from an external source and has a little valve that clamps onto my vehicle front tire. I simply reduce the pressure in the tire until I have 21 psi and wa-la. On the 993 be sure you clamp the overflow tube shut on your brake reseroir (ask me how I know) . Also, I don't think the motive system will work on ABD or ABS 993's - somebody else chime in here.
#12
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My buddy borrowed my Promotive to bleed his breaks. When I gave it to him it was pretty well stained with the blue stain from the Super Blue Fluid. When he gave it back to me it was clean as new. He told me that he used denatured alcohol to flush the bleeder. Worked very well. It also cleaned up the tubing.
#13
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Originally Posted by Marlon
Sounds like your rubber brake lines are clogged or collapsed. You need 21 psi through the Motive though or it won't work right.
#14
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Originally Posted by chris walrod
I try to minimize the pressure I use with the Motive bleeder. 7-10 psi works fine. The reason for this is I am trying to minimize the chance of pushing air into the fluid.
#15
Drifting
Also - be sure to 'tap' the brake calipers with a piece of wood as you bleed them to help consolidate and knock loose the air bubbles - especially if you only use 12 - 15 psi. You will not cause seal failure with 21 psi. Your foot generates hundreds of psi (in a closed system) when you step on the brake.