C4S front diff seal replacement ??? .... it's in!
02-14-2007, 04:47 PM
#1
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C4S front diff seal replacement ??? .... it's in!
In the process of replacing a halfshaft drive flange seal on my front differential (C4S), and would appreciate some insight from those more experienced .... before I take any unwarranted steps 
- it was -17C today, so short procedures are better in an unheated garage. 
I removed the six M8 pan heads securing the right half shaft to the flange, wrestled the CV joint out .... and have run out of space to drop the shaft far enough to extract the flange from the diff. There appear to be two options ---
a) remove the front stabilizer bar - ugh!, hate to get into that!
b) remove the wheel, unbolt the stabilizer bar drop link and the lower ball joint stud .... and press the latter out of the spindle: then pull the spindle back, dragging the halfshaft with it.
c) proven method by someone who knows what they are doing ...
I think (a) would work, but am strongly leaning towards ( b): Ideas or suggestions ???
TIA
- it was -17C today, so short procedures are better in an unheated garage. I removed the six M8 pan heads securing the right half shaft to the flange, wrestled the CV joint out .... and have run out of space to drop the shaft far enough to extract the flange from the diff. There appear to be two options ---
a) remove the front stabilizer bar - ugh!, hate to get into that!
b) remove the wheel, unbolt the stabilizer bar drop link and the lower ball joint stud .... and press the latter out of the spindle: then pull the spindle back, dragging the halfshaft with it.
c) proven method by someone who knows what they are doing ...
I think (a) would work, but am strongly leaning towards ( b): Ideas or suggestions ???
TIA
Last edited by Garth S; 02-15-2007 at 03:18 PM. Reason: Updated progress
02-14-2007, 05:49 PM
#2
Three Wheelin'
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Garth,
Snap. I have that job to do before the warmer weather. I would take a look at the diff mount . Its easy to release and that gives a bit more flexibility .You can tip the diff over to help.
I intend to release both shafts at the start .
If that doesnt appeal how about freeing the lower wishbone at the inboard end?
Geoff
Snap. I have that job to do before the warmer weather. I would take a look at the diff mount . Its easy to release and that gives a bit more flexibility .You can tip the diff over to help.
I intend to release both shafts at the start .
If that doesnt appeal how about freeing the lower wishbone at the inboard end?
Geoff
02-15-2007, 03:38 PM
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With the flood of input, one conclusion was that this was a job to farm out to others, along with your wallet ..... but we persevered ....
The seal is in - and what a PITA job it is
. I did method (b) - and tied the strut back to the hoist upright with a bungee. Unlocking the steering gave adequate wiggle room with the halfshaft to press the halfshaft flange out of the diff. One of the more valuable of the 20 some odd tools I used was a 3 ft length of 1x3" pine. It became the drift to tap the new seal in ( laid over top of the halfshaft, and to drive the flange back in place. It also was used to jack the lower A-arm up tight so the ball joint could be retorqued.
I only need to do final torque on the M8 cap screws ... 31 ft.lbs rings a bell???
Geoff - this would be a monster backache doing this on the floor - so you are more than welcome to drive up onto the hoist ... you can even use my battle proven length of pine
.
The seal is in - and what a PITA job it is
. I did method (b) - and tied the strut back to the hoist upright with a bungee. Unlocking the steering gave adequate wiggle room with the halfshaft to press the halfshaft flange out of the diff. One of the more valuable of the 20 some odd tools I used was a 3 ft length of 1x3" pine. It became the drift to tap the new seal in ( laid over top of the halfshaft, and to drive the flange back in place. It also was used to jack the lower A-arm up tight so the ball joint could be retorqued.I only need to do final torque on the M8 cap screws ... 31 ft.lbs rings a bell???
Geoff - this would be a monster backache doing this on the floor - so you are more than welcome to drive up onto the hoist ... you can even use my battle proven length of pine
.
02-15-2007, 05:04 PM
#6
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Garth,
I know its a bit tight !
Where did you get your new seals, Porsche Halifax or a bearing/seal company ?
The offer of a lift is appreciated. A bit of long range weather guesswork is needed . Plenty of sheet ice down here . I prefer snow !
Well done.
Geoff
I know its a bit tight !
Where did you get your new seals, Porsche Halifax or a bearing/seal company ?
The offer of a lift is appreciated. A bit of long range weather guesswork is needed . Plenty of sheet ice down here . I prefer snow !
Well done.
Geoff
02-15-2007, 05:59 PM
#7
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Originally Posted by Monique
The moral of the story.... ??? get a rwd drive Porker.
Teasing Garth
Teasing Garth
Geoff, I paid the Dealer price at Hfx, ~$60 pair; however, it would be $$ ahead to order from one of several US spots. I'm compiling a list of spring R&R items for such an order - if you wish to add in, PM me with the goal to economize on shipping.
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02-16-2007, 12:15 AM
#8
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Garth my friend - all I can say is 
Yes, I've been extremely busy and haven't been on the site for a few months - kinda missed everyone
Anyway, I have a big smile on my face because, guess what??? You did exactly what I did!!!
Your (b) option was the same thing that I ended up doing on my first go-around. With my second go-around I was looking at replacing the input shaft seal which required the diff to be removed. When I disconnected the diff from the cross member there was a lot more play and the half shafts were easier to remove.
So, folks, here's my warning for whoever reads this and DOES remove the diff: DO NOT PUSH THE DIFF UP AGAINST THE CAR!!! There is a breather cap at the top of the diff which can be pushed in - it happened to me and the consequences were a royal....well....you get the point. I did a post here a while ago about it for whoever's interested.
I laughed when I read about your 3 ft drift - I used a 2x4 - gees was that hard to get in. I also used a 25lb sledge hammer...nuts.
31 ftlbs for the hex bolts from the halfshaft to the final drive is correct.
Yes, I too know what it's like to be in a non-heated garage Although I just got new insulated garage doors because of my lift, and I can't believe how much the temperature stabilizes - still cold, but nowhere near what it is outside of the garage.
Apologies for the late response...
Ciao
Yes, I've been extremely busy and haven't been on the site for a few months - kinda missed everyone
Anyway, I have a big smile on my face because, guess what??? You did exactly what I did!!!
Your (b) option was the same thing that I ended up doing on my first go-around. With my second go-around I was looking at replacing the input shaft seal which required the diff to be removed. When I disconnected the diff from the cross member there was a lot more play and the half shafts were easier to remove.
So, folks, here's my warning for whoever reads this and DOES remove the diff: DO NOT PUSH THE DIFF UP AGAINST THE CAR!!! There is a breather cap at the top of the diff which can be pushed in - it happened to me and the consequences were a royal....well....you get the point. I did a post here a while ago about it for whoever's interested.
I laughed when I read about your 3 ft drift - I used a 2x4 - gees was that hard to get in. I also used a 25lb sledge hammer...nuts.
31 ftlbs for the hex bolts from the halfshaft to the final drive is correct.
Yes, I too know what it's like to be in a non-heated garage
Although I just got new insulated garage doors because of my lift, and I can't believe how much the temperature stabilizes - still cold, but nowhere near what it is outside of the garage.Apologies for the late response...
Ciao
02-16-2007, 12:16 AM
#9
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Oh, forgot to mention - after the fiasco with my front drive (although not because of it) I've decided to option my car in a RWD for this year to try it out...I'll be starting that project in the next month or so. Should be fun...
02-17-2007, 09:45 AM
#10
Originally Posted by Garth S
With the flood of input, one conclusion was that this was a job to farm out to others, along with your wallet ..... but we persevered ....
The seal is in - and what a PITA job it is . I did method (b) - and tied the strut back to the hoist upright with a bungee. Unlocking the steering gave adequate wiggle room with the halfshaft to press the halfshaft flange out of the diff. One of the more valuable of the 20 some odd tools I used was a 3 ft length of 1x3" pine. It became the drift to tap the new seal in ( laid over top of the halfshaft, and to drive the flange back in place. It also was used to jack the lower A-arm up tight so the ball joint could be retorqued.
I only need to do final torque on the M8 cap screws ... 31 ft.lbs rings a bell???
Geoff - this would be a monster backache doing this on the floor - so you are more than welcome to drive up onto the hoist ... you can even use my battle proven length of pine .
The seal is in - and what a PITA job it is
. I did method (b) - and tied the strut back to the hoist upright with a bungee. Unlocking the steering gave adequate wiggle room with the halfshaft to press the halfshaft flange out of the diff. One of the more valuable of the 20 some odd tools I used was a 3 ft length of 1x3" pine. It became the drift to tap the new seal in ( laid over top of the halfshaft, and to drive the flange back in place. It also was used to jack the lower A-arm up tight so the ball joint could be retorqued.I only need to do final torque on the M8 cap screws ... 31 ft.lbs rings a bell???
Geoff - this would be a monster backache doing this on the floor - so you are more than welcome to drive up onto the hoist ... you can even use my battle proven length of pine
.Hello Garth, just trying to get an understanding of how you removed the diff. I had to drop the subframe in order to do this. With a little more detail, how did you get that thing out?
Thanks,
Ken
02-17-2007, 10:00 AM
#11
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Originally Posted by 993Porsche
Hello Garth, just trying to get an understanding of how you removed the diff. I had to drop the subframe in order to do this. With a little more detail, how did you get that thing out?
Thanks,
Ken
Thanks,
Ken
The diff stayed in place ... fortunately: Enrico ( above) was the brave soul who removed the diff for the vent tube repair .. as you have also obviously done
I just needed to finagle the halfshaft back enough to press out the output flange .... and replace its leaking seal in the diff case. That's where the 3" drift came into play ...
Looking at it, I'm sure that the subframe must be at least lowered to tilt the diff out of the car ... and there is very little room to pull the halfshafts back without opening the ball joints, etc as above.
