Flushed Slave Cylinder...WOW!
08-27-2006, 02:33 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Flushed Slave Cylinder...WOW!
Just finished flushing the Clutch Slave Cylinder & Cleaning/Lubing the entire pedal assembly. All I can say is WOW, what a difference! Feels like a new clutch, my clutch only has 10K miles on it, but still a huge diff. 
Old fluid was solid black!
This is a very easy DIY as many have said, it actually took longer to jack car up, remove wheel, etc... than to do the flush. I ran about 1/2 litre of fluid through, as it took me a couple of tries to get all the air out.
Old fluid was solid black!
This is a very easy DIY as many have said, it actually took longer to jack car up, remove wheel, etc... than to do the flush. I ran about 1/2 litre of fluid through, as it took me a couple of tries to get all the air out.
08-27-2006, 03:22 PM
#2
Seared
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Brian,
Keep an eye on the pedal feel. Occasionally, the new fluid will react with the old seals in the slave cylinder, causing a jerky sensation when releasing the clutch. This happened to mine when I flushed at 40,000 miles. I replaced the slave cylinder & hose and everything is smooth again. Now that's a fun DIY!
Andreas
Keep an eye on the pedal feel. Occasionally, the new fluid will react with the old seals in the slave cylinder, causing a jerky sensation when releasing the clutch. This happened to mine when I flushed at 40,000 miles. I replaced the slave cylinder & hose and everything is smooth again. Now that's a fun DIY!
Andreas
08-27-2006, 05:57 PM
#4
Three Wheelin'
Old fluid was solid black!
Occasionally, the new fluid will react with the old seals in the slave cylinder, causing a jerky sensation when releasing the clutch. This happened to mine when I flushed at 40,000 miles.
---
Chris Andropoulos
Schneider Autohaus
Santa Barbara, CA
08-28-2006, 12:53 AM
#5
Three Wheelin'
Ok I'll copy and post the procedure I PMed to someone a couple weeks back . . .
I am sorry I do not have a link to the procedure, the first time I changed the brake fluid on one of those cars I used the factory manual, which is obviously prohibitively expensive, but I work at a shop so of course we have those.
But, in a nutshell, what i do is I first use a vacuum pump to suck all the old fluid out of the reservoir, and fill the resevoir with fresh brake fluid. Then, you turn the key on, and you can hear the pump in the front of the luggage compartment running, filling the accumulator. Wait till the pump stops, then pull the bottom electrical connector off the pump(not the one coming off of the green pressure switch, the one below it) to disable the pump. Then, if you look above and to the left of the spare tire, you can see the accumulator, which has kind of a round black plastic sphere on it. There is a bleeder screw on that. Make sure you are wearing safety glasses, and that you hold the bleeder hose tightly on the screw! When you crack this bleeder screw, a good amount of fluid comes out pretty fast, so be careful, but this is cool since it gets a lot of the old fluid out.
After the fluid is done coming out of the accumulator, close that bleeder, and now you can bleed the brakes in a conventional manner. I would highly recommend using a pressure bleeder, but I have manually bled a 993tt with a helper since the guy wanted ATE blue fluid and we didnt want to contaminate our pressure bleeder with it. Bleed the brakes in the traditional sequence: RR, LR RF, LF. There are 2 bleeder screws on each caliper, after you bleed the first one and you see clean new fluid coming out, you only have to bleed the second one for a couple of seconds, since you are now only flushing out only that small area of the caliper.
After the brakes are done don't forget to bleed the clutch! You have to take the plastic undertray off from under the tranny, the bleeder is on top of the tranny, accessed from the left, and you need a 7mm wrench. Once you are done w/ the clutch, make sure there's fluid in the reservoir, then reconnect the connector for the pump, and turn on the key again and again wait until the pump stops. Then, and only then can you accurately check the brake fluid level. Correct it as necessary and then make sure you brake and clutch pedal are there. As I mentioned in my post on the hydroboost cars, the pedal feel is kinda weird compared to the vacuum boosted cars, but thats normal. Well, hope this helps, and good luck
I guess i have to put a disclaimer here that I am not repsonsible for anyone messing up their brake system after reading this!
---
Chris Andropoulos
Schneider Autohaus
Santa Barbara, CA
I am sorry I do not have a link to the procedure, the first time I changed the brake fluid on one of those cars I used the factory manual, which is obviously prohibitively expensive, but I work at a shop so of course we have those.
But, in a nutshell, what i do is I first use a vacuum pump to suck all the old fluid out of the reservoir, and fill the resevoir with fresh brake fluid. Then, you turn the key on, and you can hear the pump in the front of the luggage compartment running, filling the accumulator. Wait till the pump stops, then pull the bottom electrical connector off the pump(not the one coming off of the green pressure switch, the one below it) to disable the pump. Then, if you look above and to the left of the spare tire, you can see the accumulator, which has kind of a round black plastic sphere on it. There is a bleeder screw on that. Make sure you are wearing safety glasses, and that you hold the bleeder hose tightly on the screw! When you crack this bleeder screw, a good amount of fluid comes out pretty fast, so be careful, but this is cool since it gets a lot of the old fluid out.
After the fluid is done coming out of the accumulator, close that bleeder, and now you can bleed the brakes in a conventional manner. I would highly recommend using a pressure bleeder, but I have manually bled a 993tt with a helper since the guy wanted ATE blue fluid and we didnt want to contaminate our pressure bleeder with it. Bleed the brakes in the traditional sequence: RR, LR RF, LF. There are 2 bleeder screws on each caliper, after you bleed the first one and you see clean new fluid coming out, you only have to bleed the second one for a couple of seconds, since you are now only flushing out only that small area of the caliper.
After the brakes are done don't forget to bleed the clutch! You have to take the plastic undertray off from under the tranny, the bleeder is on top of the tranny, accessed from the left, and you need a 7mm wrench. Once you are done w/ the clutch, make sure there's fluid in the reservoir, then reconnect the connector for the pump, and turn on the key again and again wait until the pump stops. Then, and only then can you accurately check the brake fluid level. Correct it as necessary and then make sure you brake and clutch pedal are there. As I mentioned in my post on the hydroboost cars, the pedal feel is kinda weird compared to the vacuum boosted cars, but thats normal. Well, hope this helps, and good luck
I guess i have to put a disclaimer here that I am not repsonsible for anyone messing up their brake system after reading this!
---
Chris Andropoulos
Schneider Autohaus
Santa Barbara, CA
08-28-2006, 02:21 AM
#6
Technical Guru
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Originally Posted by robof4
what are the major diffences for the C4 and turbo proceedure
08-28-2006, 02:19 PM
#7
Three Wheelin'
I'm a little confused reading all of this. Isn't the clutch fluid in a separate system from the brake system's fluid? I don't think the clutch fluid has ever been changed on my car and I just turned 70K miles.
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08-28-2006, 02:38 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
I'm a little confused reading all of this. Isn't the clutch fluid in a separate system from the brake system's fluid? I don't think the clutch fluid has ever been changed on my car and I just turned 70K miles.
Do a search on Clutch Slave Cylinder, you'll find a ton of info.
08-28-2006, 03:43 PM
#11
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i replaced rotors, pads, slave cylinder and the slave cylinder hose this weekend. I flushed and bled the system, put everything back together and started the car to go break everything in and the clutch pedal went softly down the floor and stayed there. i'm going to rebleed the clutch slave and hopefully that will do it... is it possible when inserting a new clutch slave to align it incorrectly? i'm hoping it's just an air bubble i didn't get out, i definitely don't want to pull the slave cylinder again. my arms and hands barely had enough room to work.
08-28-2006, 03:49 PM
#13
Seared
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Shidinger,
It is possible for the slave pushrod to miss the 'cup' of the release arm. It's been mentioned here before, but I think you would have heard a metal on metal sound. After doing this replacement myself, I think it would be easier to simply cut an access door in the rear seat bulkhead!
As Brian said, it's probably just a bit of air.
Andreas
It is possible for the slave pushrod to miss the 'cup' of the release arm. It's been mentioned here before, but I think you would have heard a metal on metal sound. After doing this replacement myself, I think it would be easier to simply cut an access door in the rear seat bulkhead!
As Brian said, it's probably just a bit of air.
Andreas
08-29-2006, 02:00 AM
#15
Three Wheelin'
The procedure for your C4 is exactly the same as for the C2.
-Chris