My Sad, Sad Fraiday....
05-31-2006, 05:53 PM
#138
Mr. Excitement
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
There is an easy way to build and install a 100% cutoff system on the beam. Feel free to contact me for info. Home Depot and Grangers stuff and an afternoon to install working slow. Same as manufacture methods or better. I am right around th corner from you in Falls Church.
Anything less that feed power cutoff will not protect you from switch or contactor welding. A switch or contactor can weld and stick from simple bad luck, a motor overload or from bumping. Hitting the UP switch while the motor is coasting down can cause the motor to attempt to restart while the centrifugal start switch is not reset this causes high inrush amps and can weld a switch or contactor. The breaker can trip and when you reset the unit now runs uncontrolled. This is not an unheard of or real unusual thing to have happen.
I would not use the lift before installing a self built or factory purchased feed power lock out system. (Duh, as if you planned to) If the lift does not use a contactor that is controlled by the UP button I would add a 2X or 4X rated contactor. $30 or so and 20 min of wiring inside the control box to do. You can also as a solid state timer to prevent bumping. It can be set to lock out the control switch for 3 or 4 seconds after up cycle. $20 or so and installed inline with the switch to contactor wiring. A good contactor might help with the breaker tripping problem if the push button switch closes slow and one leg drags. A small unfused service disconect at the controller might make for better sleep too. Lift gos ape**** you pull the switch. No help if you are out of the room but the overhead device will catch that.
As to the 70 amp and the 20 amp tripping together. The 70 might be closer to full cap than the 20 or the legs might be miss match loaded. If the 70 has badly mismatched loads on it that can make it sensitive as well. One leg of the split phase has more draw and trips out or pulls the entire breaker open. Test for amp draw on each leg as well as each branch down stream.
A high inrush load can cause the 70 to trip first as well. Sometimes the unit or device protector breaker will trip and as it does the panel or sub panel will trip as well. Unless this happens often there is little to do other than testing amp draw and matching the loads to the system. 70 tripping before the 20 I would test the loads on the 70 and replace the 20. 20 amp 2 leg breakers are cheap.
Anything less that feed power cutoff will not protect you from switch or contactor welding. A switch or contactor can weld and stick from simple bad luck, a motor overload or from bumping. Hitting the UP switch while the motor is coasting down can cause the motor to attempt to restart while the centrifugal start switch is not reset this causes high inrush amps and can weld a switch or contactor. The breaker can trip and when you reset the unit now runs uncontrolled. This is not an unheard of or real unusual thing to have happen.
I would not use the lift before installing a self built or factory purchased feed power lock out system. (Duh, as if you planned to) If the lift does not use a contactor that is controlled by the UP button I would add a 2X or 4X rated contactor. $30 or so and 20 min of wiring inside the control box to do. You can also as a solid state timer to prevent bumping. It can be set to lock out the control switch for 3 or 4 seconds after up cycle. $20 or so and installed inline with the switch to contactor wiring. A good contactor might help with the breaker tripping problem if the push button switch closes slow and one leg drags. A small unfused service disconect at the controller might make for better sleep too. Lift gos ape**** you pull the switch. No help if you are out of the room but the overhead device will catch that.
As to the 70 amp and the 20 amp tripping together. The 70 might be closer to full cap than the 20 or the legs might be miss match loaded. If the 70 has badly mismatched loads on it that can make it sensitive as well. One leg of the split phase has more draw and trips out or pulls the entire breaker open. Test for amp draw on each leg as well as each branch down stream.
A high inrush load can cause the 70 to trip first as well. Sometimes the unit or device protector breaker will trip and as it does the panel or sub panel will trip as well. Unless this happens often there is little to do other than testing amp draw and matching the loads to the system. 70 tripping before the 20 I would test the loads on the 70 and replace the 20. 20 amp 2 leg breakers are cheap.
06-01-2006, 08:12 AM
#140
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Here is a quick update.... my body shops needs to see the car in person in order to make a accurate estimate. His shop does not have room right now for my car. I am hoping to 'drive' it down (about 25 mi) early one morning in a week or so. Yeah the windshield is busted up, but I used clear packing tape to hold it all together... Guessing is still open, one per person.
06-09-2006, 08:27 AM
#145
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Here is the latest update... I will be taking the car to the Body Shop (Autocrafters in Manassas, VA) Wednesday, June 14. Robert needs to see the car in person to accurately estimate the damage. This weekend I will be washing, waxing, and shinning the wheels so when my insurance adjuster sees the car, it will look it's best. Hopefully by the end of next week, or early the following week, I will the estimate and announce who was the close guesser and what the prize is.
To be continued...
To be continued...
06-09-2006, 09:43 AM
#148
Cruisin'
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Wingate, North Carolina
Posts: 9
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Ouch! I hurts just reading this. Sounds like you are well on the way to restoration! Since guessing is still open...$15,251.98-$2000(sale of full rise lift)+$1111.93(purchase of midrise lift plus S&H)=$14,363.91
06-14-2006, 08:39 AM
#149
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Just a short update... This morning under cover of darkness I drove my car twenty five miles to Manassas, VA where my body shop is. I used two inch wide clear packing tape to hold the windshield together, both inside and out. I was surprised how well I could see the road. Glad it did not rain!!!! Robert, the owner needed the car in person in order to work up an accurate repair estimate. I hope to have a price by Friday or Monday and announce the winner!!!!! Then the real work will start dealing with the responsibility of the repairs. I do hope to be back on the road by this Fall...
06-14-2006, 09:15 AM
#150
Seared
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
George,
I engaged in a similar cloak & dagger operation years ago. I needed to get a former car to the body shop for door skin replacement, complete body prep, and a total repaint. In my infinite wisdom, I stripped everything I could off the body (all lights, mirrors, emblems, etc.) and then left my house at 4 am to drive it to the body shop. Made it in one piece without incident. If the police only knew...
Andreas
I engaged in a similar cloak & dagger operation years ago. I needed to get a former car to the body shop for door skin replacement, complete body prep, and a total repaint. In my infinite wisdom, I stripped everything I could off the body (all lights, mirrors, emblems, etc.) and then left my house at 4 am to drive it to the body shop. Made it in one piece without incident. If the police only knew...
Andreas