gordo993

Excellent point, Pete - an additional 2" could compromise the chassis (bending A pillars). Jacking the rear of the car is going to either put even more stress on the A pillars and/or flex the chassis which could lead to panel fitment/alignment issues not to mension suspension alignment issues. As stout as these cars are, they weren't designed to be tweeked like that.

$4,000 lift vs $40,000 Porsche - destroy that lift to prevent further damage to the Porsche.

curveraider

I am with Pete. Don't lift the car more, even a few mils, just to move the arms out of the way. If you can't get to the safty latches, just cut the red extension arms. Those can not be very expensive and they should be easy to access with just about any cutting tool.

mr_bock

Thanks for the input. I will consider this and I have a cutting torch handy. I will see how difficult it may be to get to the safety stops.

The saga continues...

RutgersU

This will probably be best for your car but with all the downward pressure on your car and the lift I'd hate to be the one under it with a torch without other support. The safety stops may be the only thing holding it up.

Mark in Baltimore

What a nightmare...

c993k

George, I have a question, Why was the lift mounted on the side of the beam that allows the least hight clearance? From what I can see, if the lift was mounted on the other side of the beam you would of had about 24" more clearance and miss the windshied all together. Chris

BillJ

Just an idea - I have a rotary mid-rise that can be transported pretty easily if need be. Just need a 220 outlet to operate the lift. If you can get a truck and and way to lift it into that truck , we can probably get your car down safe if the ID of your setup is greater than the OD of mine. Just an offer...

Dudley

George, So sorry for you. What a beautiful car. Any of you that have seen the car realize the gorgeous shape she was in.

(I especially feel your pain because I have "been there and done that". But remember, this too, will pass.)

Best of luck with the repairs.

grmnxtc

Why use a cutting torch?

Looks to me that if you can support the car's weight (supports under the wheels?) you should be able to remove the pin thats holding the swung arm in place (see the first pic and what looks like a big silver bolt running through it).


Doesn't look pretty though at all... Bummer.

mr_bock

Thanks for the suggestions and offers... The car is now down!!!!!, no cutting, etc... I hope msnowdon will post the latest pictures (Thanks Michael!!!!). We (Ron the lift installer, helper George and myself) used a portable sissor lift and was able to get enough lift to swing the Mohawk lift arms out from under and did not contact the beam. Then lowered the car onto wood blocks to give enough room for the sissor lift. with the sissor lift pulled from under the car all I have to do is roll back and off the wood blocks. But first I need to do a super vacuuming of the interior for all of the glass shards. Then the task of finding aquality shop that can do the required metal work. When the new pix are up, you will see the extent of creased metal and bent top of the window frame.

The roof is supported by a number of I beams and that the lift columns had to be placed between the m. There would not be enough room to clear the roof of the car or my truck, etc... Bottom line, I feel is that the switch should not have failed. Maybe that is why people usually don't talk in an elevator, as everyone is hoping for no switch failure and reach their desired floor???? I don' know.

I know that the car will get fixed and this will become just a bad memory, but till then, this is energy spent that I don't need. I do thank everyone who has shared with me their support, comments, and suggestions. This is all part of the healing process!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Even if my car is not fixed in time, my July 8th barbecue is still on for those who can make it.

George B.

Chaos

I have a lift and that story is a true nightmare !

AnthemAVM

mr_bock

Thanks Michael for putting up the pix!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I was told that the pump motor and start/stop switch come as a unit from Baldor (a respected motor manufacturer). The motor is rated at 2.5 HP and 13.0 - 13.9 amps. The switch is made by McGill Mfg. and says 24 amp at 125 - 250 VAC. My brakers are rated; main box 70 amp, sub box 20 amp. Not sure why both breakers would trip occasionly at start up? I would think only the 20 amp would trip.

I would be interested in any ideas for a safety height stop so this will NEVER happen again.

Now the saga moves into the repair phase.....

Monty

I have heard that when electric motors start they can draw a lot more amps than the continuous load which is what is usually quoted. It is almost like a stall current which can be very high.

At least she is on the ground now and you can get the repairs organised.

Best Regards from the UK

eloyex

howww !!! holly **** !!!

i am sorry man .. !! my simpathies with you .. .!!!
pix shows the facts better than a million words .. !!

aghhhh ... what a mess .. !!!!!


you need a end of run switch (dont know the name exactly in english ..)
... like elevators have ..

when the travel mechanism reaches certain height it just cut power to the lift engine .. overcurrent protection will work when is too late probably ...