Top end rebuild estimate, Is this reasonable?
#1
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I just got a quote for a "top end" rebuild for $5200 which includes the following:
-All Fluids/filters, distributor caps, rotors, ignition wire set, headset, air and pollen filters, intake and exhaust guides.
- "Valve job", guides, seals and grinding.
- Also pulling cylinders away from pistons and getting a good look at everything.
I'm told the possibilty exists that if the clutch needs to be replaced the dual mass flywheel might need to be replaced too as it cant be machined. I understand this element might fall into the category of "might as well" since it is already exposed as part of the rebuild.
Too much? Underestimated? Just right?
Thanks in advance for your help.
-All Fluids/filters, distributor caps, rotors, ignition wire set, headset, air and pollen filters, intake and exhaust guides.
- "Valve job", guides, seals and grinding.
- Also pulling cylinders away from pistons and getting a good look at everything.
I'm told the possibilty exists that if the clutch needs to be replaced the dual mass flywheel might need to be replaced too as it cant be machined. I understand this element might fall into the category of "might as well" since it is already exposed as part of the rebuild.
Too much? Underestimated? Just right?
Thanks in advance for your help.
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Originally Posted by fast_freddy
I just got a quote for a "top end" rebuild for $5200 which includes the following:
-All Fluids/filters, distributor caps, rotors, ignition wire set, headset, air and pollen filters, intake and exhaust guides.
- "Valve job", guides, seals and grinding.
- Also pulling cylinders away from pistons and getting a good look at everything.
I'm told the possibilty exists that if the clutch needs to be replaced the dual mass flywheel might need to be replaced too as it cant be machined. I understand this element might fall into the category of "might as well" since it is already exposed as part of the rebuild.
Too much? Underestimated? Just right?
Thanks in advance for your help.
-All Fluids/filters, distributor caps, rotors, ignition wire set, headset, air and pollen filters, intake and exhaust guides.
- "Valve job", guides, seals and grinding.
- Also pulling cylinders away from pistons and getting a good look at everything.
I'm told the possibilty exists that if the clutch needs to be replaced the dual mass flywheel might need to be replaced too as it cant be machined. I understand this element might fall into the category of "might as well" since it is already exposed as part of the rebuild.
Too much? Underestimated? Just right?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Just curios, how many miles do you have on the car? And what year is it?
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If the engine is out, and you have any doubts about the clutch, this is the best time to replace it. The estimate sounds fair and I like the fact that this wrench seems to know what he is doing simply by him telling you about the possibility of a DMF replacement and that they are not to be resurfaced.
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Originally Posted by TRINITONY
Just curios, how many miles do you have on the car? And what year is it?
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That's a reasonable price. I would suggest also doing the rod bearings and bolts if you can afford it. This allows you to do bottom end preventative on a wearing item, without cracking the case open. I'd also suggest hydraulic lifters. They are really easy to access once you have the engine apart, and they are not very expensive right now (although the price varies A LOT).
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Sounds reasonable based on what mine cost (around $5k). One thing you may want to consider is that it's likely that your intake guides/valves will be fine, and won't need to be touched... it's the exhaust side that's the real problem.
My cost also included replacing all six exhaust valves as they were severely pitted... you may want to ask your wrench about that.
My clutch was done w/ a LWF and I only paid for parts (no labor).
Good luck!!
My cost also included replacing all six exhaust valves as they were severely pitted... you may want to ask your wrench about that.
My clutch was done w/ a LWF and I only paid for parts (no labor).
Good luck!!
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Fast Freddy: What happened to make you realize you needed a top end rebuild as I saw a previous post of yours that you didn't use much oil. Thanks
"I drive mine every day year round through snow, rain, etc. It has been one of the most reliable cars I have ever had and without question the best I have driven in the snow. If salt is on the road I religiously wash it and have no rush and winter oriented dame has been limited to a "pocked" front bumper cover which I recently had re-sprayed. Other than that only a few wear items have needed repair so far. One valve cover leak, no top end re-build necessary so far (one quart every 1500 extreme use miles, 2000 miles otherwise), new alternator and normal wear and tear / maintenance items. My philospohy is that cars age regardless of use so why not enjoy them. It is meant to be driven isn't it? Only in the states do we "shelter our cars", go to europe and you see almost the same amount of 911's on the road in the winter as you do summer".
"I drive mine every day year round through snow, rain, etc. It has been one of the most reliable cars I have ever had and without question the best I have driven in the snow. If salt is on the road I religiously wash it and have no rush and winter oriented dame has been limited to a "pocked" front bumper cover which I recently had re-sprayed. Other than that only a few wear items have needed repair so far. One valve cover leak, no top end re-build necessary so far (one quart every 1500 extreme use miles, 2000 miles otherwise), new alternator and normal wear and tear / maintenance items. My philospohy is that cars age regardless of use so why not enjoy them. It is meant to be driven isn't it? Only in the states do we "shelter our cars", go to europe and you see almost the same amount of 911's on the road in the winter as you do summer".
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Originally Posted by SR71BLACKBIRD
Fast Freddy: What happened to make you realize you needed a top end rebuild as I saw a previous post of yours that you didn't use much oil. Thanks
"I drive mine every day year round through snow, rain, etc. It has been one of the most reliable cars I have ever had and without question the best I have driven in the snow. If salt is on the road I religiously wash it and have no rush and winter oriented dame has been limited to a "pocked" front bumper cover which I recently had re-sprayed. Other than that only a few wear items have needed repair so far. One valve cover leak, no top end re-build necessary so far (one quart every 1500 extreme use miles, 2000 miles otherwise), new alternator and normal wear and tear / maintenance items. My philospohy is that cars age regardless of use so why not enjoy them. It is meant to be driven isn't it? Only in the states do we "shelter our cars", go to europe and you see almost the same amount of 911's on the road in the winter as you do summer".
"I drive mine every day year round through snow, rain, etc. It has been one of the most reliable cars I have ever had and without question the best I have driven in the snow. If salt is on the road I religiously wash it and have no rush and winter oriented dame has been limited to a "pocked" front bumper cover which I recently had re-sprayed. Other than that only a few wear items have needed repair so far. One valve cover leak, no top end re-build necessary so far (one quart every 1500 extreme use miles, 2000 miles otherwise), new alternator and normal wear and tear / maintenance items. My philospohy is that cars age regardless of use so why not enjoy them. It is meant to be driven isn't it? Only in the states do we "shelter our cars", go to europe and you see almost the same amount of 911's on the road in the winter as you do summer".
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Originally Posted by fast_freddy
"Overnight" it seemed to start eating oil and gas. I went from an average of 13.9mpg on the on board computer down to 13.2 in a matter of 500 miles and the OBC hasn't be reset for about 4k miles.
Originally Posted by fast_freddy
Also, it is eating about a quart every 700 miles or so now. Kind of odd, isnt it?
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Sorry to hear about that Freddy; that was so sudden. Do you have your engine tray off and is most of your driving in the city in rush hour? I think I will do the Hi speed oil fan cooler as soon as I can to do some preventative measures - btw - did you do that too?
Thanks
Scott
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Scott
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That sounds fair, but be prepared for some additional costs to parts that you *may* need. Valves come to mind, although not every top end requires any valves, some are out of spec from time to time. Others have pointed out some good "while you are in there" items as well.
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