fast_freddy

I just got a quote for a "top end" rebuild for $5200 which includes the following:

-All Fluids/filters, distributor caps, rotors, ignition wire set, headset, air and pollen filters, intake and exhaust guides.
- "Valve job", guides, seals and grinding.
- Also pulling cylinders away from pistons and getting a good look at everything.

I'm told the possibilty exists that if the clutch needs to be replaced the dual mass flywheel might need to be replaced too as it cant be machined. I understand this element might fall into the category of "might as well" since it is already exposed as part of the rebuild.

Too much? Underestimated? Just right?

Thanks in advance for your help.

mborkow

that seems reasonable. i paid closer to $6, and i did need a new clutch (i went the lwf/rs route, though with a 95 you might encounter some stalling issues).

gordo993

Mine was just shy of $5k with lwf/rs. I didn't do the plugs/wires/dist or the cylinder thing.

TRINITONY

Just curios, how many miles do you have on the car? And what year is it?

chris walrod

If the engine is out, and you have any doubts about the clutch, this is the best time to replace it. The estimate sounds fair and I like the fact that this wrench seems to know what he is doing simply by him telling you about the possibility of a DMF replacement and that they are not to be resurfaced.

fast_freddy

The car has just shy of 90k miles and is a 95', clutch was replaced by a previous owner at 40k miles.

Adrienne

That's a reasonable price. I would suggest also doing the rod bearings and bolts if you can afford it. This allows you to do bottom end preventative on a wearing item, without cracking the case open. I'd also suggest hydraulic lifters. They are really easy to access once you have the engine apart, and they are not very expensive right now (although the price varies A LOT).

trojanman

Sounds reasonable based on what mine cost (around $5k). One thing you may want to consider is that it's likely that your intake guides/valves will be fine, and won't need to be touched... it's the exhaust side that's the real problem.

My cost also included replacing all six exhaust valves as they were severely pitted... you may want to ask your wrench about that.

My clutch was done w/ a LWF and I only paid for parts (no labor).

Good luck!!

SR71BLACKBIRD

Fast Freddy: What happened to make you realize you needed a top end rebuild as I saw a previous post of yours that you didn't use much oil. Thanks


"I drive mine every day year round through snow, rain, etc. It has been one of the most reliable cars I have ever had and without question the best I have driven in the snow. If salt is on the road I religiously wash it and have no rush and winter oriented dame has been limited to a "pocked" front bumper cover which I recently had re-sprayed. Other than that only a few wear items have needed repair so far. One valve cover leak, no top end re-build necessary so far (one quart every 1500 extreme use miles, 2000 miles otherwise), new alternator and normal wear and tear / maintenance items. My philospohy is that cars age regardless of use so why not enjoy them. It is meant to be driven isn't it? Only in the states do we "shelter our cars", go to europe and you see almost the same amount of 911's on the road in the winter as you do summer".

fast_freddy

"Overnight" it seemed to start eating oil and gas. I went from an average of 13.9mpg on the on board computer down to 13.2 in a matter of 500 miles and the OBC hasn't be reset for about 4k miles. Also, it is eating about a quart every 700 miles or so now. Kind of odd, isnt it? Though I was somewhat "immune" to the dreaded top end rebuild for a while at least. Worn exhaust valve guides are like death and taxes I guess...

JasonAndreas

The fuel blend just recently changed around here (i'm just a little south of you) and the MPG always drops a little bit when that happens after every winter. We've had ethanol here for at least a year or two (or more I don't remember anymore) but if the stations around you (like the rest of the country) just started carrying it than that will also reduce your MPG slightly.

It might be worth spending $75 to have your 993 dyno-tested before you tear into the engine. How badly is the engine smoking when you let off the throttle? Even WITH catalytic converters it should spew smoke if you are burning at what Porsche considers the maximum acceptable limit (which is just slightly worse than you).

SR71BLACKBIRD

Sorry to hear about that Freddy; that was so sudden. Do you have your engine tray off and is most of your driving in the city in rush hour? I think I will do the Hi speed oil fan cooler as soon as I can to do some preventative measures - btw - did you do that too?

Thanks

Scott

GARY 95 993

6K sounds about right with clutch, if engine is coming down how about plugs and wires.

altonj

That sounds fair, but be prepared for some additional costs to parts that you *may* need. Valves come to mind, although not every top end requires any valves, some are out of spec from time to time. Others have pointed out some good "while you are in there" items as well.

Cheers

ceboyd

so am I hearing a consenus that a top end rebuild is to be expected by about 90K miles?