How long for PSS9 fitting
#16
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John, that's a good friend to have!
The lift would have been a major help. Having a lift and having done it once already I'm sure I could do it in one day (sway bars included).
Now if I could only shrink my hands...
The lift would have been a major help. Having a lift and having done it once already I'm sure I could do it in one day (sway bars included).
Now if I could only shrink my hands...
#18
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The lift is what made it easy...it probably would have taken 12 to 16 hours without the lift. Everything is right there in front of you...no getting up and down from the floor, no forgetting wrenches, and an extra set of hands to help made it pretty simple.
John
John
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The DIY is located in my signature. ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Edit - actually, just in case I ever change my signature, here is the direct link:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-forum/258810-diy-suspension-install-for-dummies.html
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Edit - actually, just in case I ever change my signature, here is the direct link:
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-forum/258810-diy-suspension-install-for-dummies.html
#20
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Started rear tonight...
Problem...left side eccentric bolt was real easy to loosen...however the heat exchanger is the way of removing it completely
. Tried jacking the engine up some...but still don't have enough clearance...
Tips please....
Problem...left side eccentric bolt was real easy to loosen...however the heat exchanger is the way of removing it completely
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Tips please....
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Yes, the left side can be tricky. Rotate the eccentric until the flat part of the shaft is pointing downwards. This will allow the inboard toe link to be moved downwards in its clevis. This should give you enough clearance to wiggle and sweet talk the bolt out. Tricky sometimes, but very much doable.
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Originally Posted by chris walrod
Yes, the left side can be tricky. Rotate the eccentric until the flat part of the shaft is pointing downwards. This will allow the inboard toe link to be moved downwards in its clevis. This should give you enough clearance to wiggle and sweet talk the bolt out. Tricky sometimes, but very much doable.
ok..I'm in for the night...but I think I tried that, Jeff has that it his write-up..maybe I'm not doing it right..."rotate the eccentric until the flat part of the shaft is pointdownwars etc..so once the inboard..moves downward..there should just be enough clearance..hmm..ok..I'll try it in the morning....
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tiks..
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Originally Posted by dhicks
Tony....I am starting tonight...front first .... I await your advice on how you get this done....
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#26
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Maybe you are not lifting the motor in the right place. If I remeber correctly, place the jack closer to the front of the car on the case, rather in the rear. So the motor tilts up, it doesn't have to move much.
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Originally Posted by Todd B
Maybe you are not lifting the motor in the right place. If I remeber correctly, place the jack closer to the front of the car on the case, rather in the rear. So the motor tilts up, it doesn't have to move much.
The jack is kinda more to the rear...all I need is a lil....eech..feel like I could wack a lil dent in the heat exchanger..who design this..lol
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Try to move the inboard end of the toe-link downwards in its clevis. It will only move a little, but a little is all you need.
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Originally Posted by TRINITONY
The jack is kinda more to the rear...all I need is a lil....eech..feel like I could wack a lil dent in the heat exchanger..who design this..lol
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Originally Posted by TRINITONY
The jack is kinda more to the rear...all I need is a lil....eech..feel like I could wack a lil dent in the heat exchanger..who design this..lol
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So to update things..all rear suspension components are back in and waiting to be tighten. I guess the strongest engines are in white cars so they have larger left heat exchangers...
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Beer time...
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