mcuozzo

John, that's a good friend to have!

The lift would have been a major help. Having a lift and having done it once already I'm sure I could do it in one day (sway bars included).

Now if I could only shrink my hands...

dhicks

John...........4 hours.....total....the lot....all of it

jrb964

The lift is what made it easy...it probably would have taken 12 to 16 hours without the lift. Everything is right there in front of you...no getting up and down from the floor, no forgetting wrenches, and an extra set of hands to help made it pretty simple.

John

InTheAir

The DIY is located in my signature.

Edit - actually, just in case I ever change my signature, here is the direct link:

https://rennlist.com/forums/993-forum/258810-diy-suspension-install-for-dummies.html

TRINITONY

Started rear tonight...

Problem...left side eccentric bolt was real easy to loosen...however the heat exchanger is the way of removing it completely . Tried jacking the engine up some...but still don't have enough clearance...

Tips please....

chris walrod

Yes, the left side can be tricky. Rotate the eccentric until the flat part of the shaft is pointing downwards. This will allow the inboard toe link to be moved downwards in its clevis. This should give you enough clearance to wiggle and sweet talk the bolt out. Tricky sometimes, but very much doable.

TRINITONY

ok..I'm in for the night...but I think I tried that, Jeff has that it his write-up..maybe I'm not doing it right..."rotate the eccentric until the flat part of the shaft is pointdownwars etc..so once the inboard..moves downward..there should just be enough clearance..hmm..ok..I'll try it in the morning....

tiks..

viperbob

Also make sure Tony that the eccentric is all the way to the ouside of where it can slide in the suspension member...

dhicks

Tony....I am starting tonight...front first .... I await your advice on how you get this done....

TRINITONY

Man...still can't this eccentric bolt past the heat exchange...

Todd B

Maybe you are not lifting the motor in the right place. If I remeber correctly, place the jack closer to the front of the car on the case, rather in the rear. So the motor tilts up, it doesn't have to move much.

TRINITONY

The jack is kinda more to the rear...all I need is a lil....eech..feel like I could wack a lil dent in the heat exchanger..who design this..lol

chris walrod

Try to move the inboard end of the toe-link downwards in its clevis. It will only move a little, but a little is all you need.

InTheAir

Not that I want to bless that technique, but as I just mentioned in a PM, some have used a mallet to "create" extra clearance from that darn heat exchanger.

TRINITONY

Well after swearing, and say unmentionables the only way to get this #$#% eccentric bolt out was by putting a real small dent in the heat exchanger. Once the dent was in, the bolt slid right out. After 2 nights of frustration this was my only recourse.... Spoke to dhicks earlier on...his slid right out...

So to update things..all rear suspension components are back in and waiting to be tighten. I guess the strongest engines are in white cars so they have larger left heat exchangers... Looking at the exchanger closely it looked like it had been previously wacked.. All in all everyone should tackle this..thanks again to VP and Jeff for making this happen...

Beer time...