Thaddeus

Could folks here please post the weak points of the 993? Anything that is unusually prone to failure or otherwise is troublesome? I have been scanning the thread titles but no clear trends have emerged (which is itself a good sign, I think). I am contemplating a model change... trying to decide which model Porsche would best suit. Thanks in advance...

Thaddeus

Chaos

Steering rack,valve guides,wiring harness,window switch, depends on mileage and use.
Much better than 928s

kkim

Taken from a past post...

Thaddeus

That's a given

User 4221

I can attest first hand. I sold my '81 928 in SEP '04 and bought a '95 993. I loved the 928 but don't miss it a bit...... I felt is was a ticking time bomb..... Hmmmmm, let's see.... What is it this week? Timing belt, torque tube, electrical gremlin?

Thad,
I would recommend a '95 because it doesn't have OBD-II or Drive-Bloc. It suffers a 10HP disadvantage to the 96-98 and doesn't have varioram. However, dyno results put the two on par.

I'd be glad to talk with you regarding my experience. PM me and I'll give you a ring this week.

Don Plumley

Nice write up. Who is Tony?

kkim

Hi Don,

Read this thread...

https://rennlist.com/forums/showthre...ghlight=callas

pcar964

I agree, that Word.doc sums up the most common problems. Wiring harness (factory recall) only thing he really left out.

From my experience, 993s have relatively soft windshields (pitting/cracking quite easily), front bumper loves stone chips (like most Pcars), rear suspension a little sensitive to alignment (must have alignment done at a shop that knows how to align the "weissach axle" which you should be familiar with if you drive a 928), and rear tires last under 10k miles. Stock stereo very weak, and stock exhaust is very quiet.

Anyway, there aren't many *big* problems to look out for with these cars, they're very well built. A little soft and cushy for my taste, but overall no real problems!

Scott 1996 993c2

Thad -

You will not be disappointed with a good 993. Look for one that has suspension and exhaust already upgraded, and 18" wheels from the 17" stock one (if you so like). Also, if the valve guides have been worked on, you'll be in good shape and miss a $6,000 to $8,000 repair. Good luck with your search.

Scott

Dan V

2 people mention valve guides. Mine's got 62K and only uses 1 Qt oil every 3K mi. Does that mean a PO had the valve guides worked on? I only have the stamps in the book from the 1st owner, no receipts for repairs done prior to 20K miles. 2nd owner, the one I bought from, didn't have them done.

TIA

Mark in Baltimore

That word doc is also missing the door check strap clicking issue.

I've never seen that before; that's a good list.

Terry Adams

I doubt it. I think 62K is just the midpoint between the 5-10K it takes to break it in, and the 100-120K where most valve guide issues crop up. Mine ran 1 qt/2500 right up to the 120K when I did the rebuild, when it dropped to 1 qt/2K. My guides were only partly worn, but I had them replaced "while we are in there".
For the past 17K since the rebuild I have been running an unbelievable 1 qt/6K miles.

K. Roman

the clutch point cannot be adjusted.

Dan V

Great info as always Terry! I've started my 120K "while your in there" list. I've already told Bob at RMG to pencil me in for 2nd half of 2010.