No Warm-Up Required?? What do you think??
#1
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Today I was reading my 993 Driver's Manual and I read that you should not allow the engine to warm up in neutral but should drive off immeadiately while avoiding high RPM until the engine has reached normal operating temperature.
This was first told to me yesterday by a fellow Porsche owner who is a retired mechanic with years of experience.
Now I will change my oldest habit, but how many of you guys out there are already doing this and how many , like me were unaware of the "No Warm-up Required"???
This was first told to me yesterday by a fellow Porsche owner who is a retired mechanic with years of experience.
Now I will change my oldest habit, but how many of you guys out there are already doing this and how many , like me were unaware of the "No Warm-up Required"???
Last edited by Aussie Alan 993; 10-01-2005 at 10:57 AM.
#3
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My friend told me that it is better for the pistons, rings, bearings and such to warm up under a normal load rather than no load as in while idling, obviously high RPM is not the only danger but labouring a cold engine is always taboo.
I'd love to hear a few opinions on this one!
I'd love to hear a few opinions on this one!
#4
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During cold start the fuelling is richened up . A motor left idling when cold can suffer from fuel bore wash.Better to drive it away and get things moving .
Geoff
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This has been the case with almost every engine for many years. It avoids fuel washing the cylinders dry, and also bring all other fluids, trans, diff, etc. up to operating temps at the same time as the engine oil. You can go on and on with wheel bearings, etc.
Most people around here, who do the "warm up the car while I finish getting ready to depart", are doing so in order to have toasty warm heat in the colder months....
Most people around here, who do the "warm up the car while I finish getting ready to depart", are doing so in order to have toasty warm heat in the colder months....
#6
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The appropriate startup drill for any car in any weather is:
Circle check car. Start car. Oil pressure stable and critical system warning lights off? (That's about as long as it takes to do up your seat belt...) Go. Gentle driving (I use <3k rpm, manual says <4.5k rpm for my 964) until temperature within operating range. In very cold weather (we get that up here) keep road speeds low until bearing and shock lubricants begin to flow (you can feel it and hear it) because shock oil is very viscous at low temps (you can break something!) You may need to double-clutch until the transmission oil warms up.
Warming your car by idling it is wrong. There is no positive reason to do it. It's also absurdly energy inefficient. Every second it sits cold at idle it's using fuel to do nothing, at extra rich settings, washing extra fuel down your cylinder walls (very expensive, eventually) and out your tailpipe (you can smell it!) One of my pet peeves in cold climates is the popularity of remote starter systems so people can get into a warm car. It's just wrong.
Circle check car. Start car. Oil pressure stable and critical system warning lights off? (That's about as long as it takes to do up your seat belt...) Go. Gentle driving (I use <3k rpm, manual says <4.5k rpm for my 964) until temperature within operating range. In very cold weather (we get that up here) keep road speeds low until bearing and shock lubricants begin to flow (you can feel it and hear it) because shock oil is very viscous at low temps (you can break something!) You may need to double-clutch until the transmission oil warms up.
Warming your car by idling it is wrong. There is no positive reason to do it. It's also absurdly energy inefficient. Every second it sits cold at idle it's using fuel to do nothing, at extra rich settings, washing extra fuel down your cylinder walls (very expensive, eventually) and out your tailpipe (you can smell it!) One of my pet peeves in cold climates is the popularity of remote starter systems so people can get into a warm car. It's just wrong.
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#7
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Modern EFI engines for the past, what, 2+ decades are fully capable of smooth, efficient running without idling in your driveway ...that's a vestige of the old carb days, and more so for carbs that were out of sorts (my Weber-fed Alfa always ran perfectly from cold as the car gradually reached operating temp).
"Warming up" the engine means warming it up with gentle driving until fluids/metals, in the tranny, all bearings, etc. are fully up to temp. As already mentioned, idling does more potential damage than good, not to mention a costly waste of fuel in this day in age.
Edward
"Warming up" the engine means warming it up with gentle driving until fluids/metals, in the tranny, all bearings, etc. are fully up to temp. As already mentioned, idling does more potential damage than good, not to mention a costly waste of fuel in this day in age.
Edward
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Along the same lines of a cold and rich engine, driving the car does warm it up quicker and reduces cold start emissions. This may be the underlying reason for automotive manufacturers to suggest such warm-up routines..
#10
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Originally Posted by Aussie Alan 993
Today I was reading my 993 Driver's Manual and I read that you should not allow the engine to warm up in neutral but should drive off immeadiately while avoiding high RPM until the engine has reached normal operating temperature.
Thats some of THE best advice you'll ever get about how to operate a car.
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#11
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Originally Posted by Aussie Alan 993
you should not allow the engine to warm up in neutral but should drive off immeadiately while avoiding high RPM until the engine has reached normal operating temperature.
I got this advice from the "old timers" Porsche drivers when I bought my 1965 356C...more than 30 years between Porsches but same procedure...turn it on and go smooth and softly...don't get too hard until the machine is fully warmed and oiled up! Well...you can follow this advice for many things in life! ;- )
#12
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how exactly would "warmed up" be defined? should the temp guage be at a certain point(7 oclock, 8 oclock?) or just a reasonable amount of distance should be covered (2 miles, 5 miles?)?
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Originally Posted by friar93
how exactly would "warmed up" be defined? should the temp guage be at a certain point(7 oclock, 8 oclock?) or just a reasonable amount of distance should be covered (2 miles, 5 miles?)?
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Originally Posted by friar93
how exactly would "warmed up" be defined? should the temp guage be at a certain point(7 oclock, 8 oclock?) or just a reasonable amount of distance should be covered (2 miles, 5 miles?)?
Take notice of the oil temp needle when you start out in the morning. It gradually climbs up to the 8:00 mark, then plummets to about 7:30 (say 1/4" or so drop on the dial). This indicates the thermostat opening up to the front cooler, thus the sudden decrease in oil temperature. Your car is now pretty much warmed up.
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