Brake pad recommendation
#1
Three Wheelin'
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Brake pad recommendation
hi.. my TT needs new pads. (ive read all the archives on pads), but im still not sure what to get.
I do about 15 track days a season (intermediate level DE) and the TT is also my weekend street car.
My local shop recommended Pagid Orange, but im concerned they will eat-up my rotors quickly. Is there something that is better than stock, but not as brutal on rotors that you guys recommend for a heavy 993twinturbo?
What should the pads cost?
I do about 15 track days a season (intermediate level DE) and the TT is also my weekend street car.
My local shop recommended Pagid Orange, but im concerned they will eat-up my rotors quickly. Is there something that is better than stock, but not as brutal on rotors that you guys recommend for a heavy 993twinturbo?
What should the pads cost?
#2
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I'm in the same boat. But I can't deal with major squeaking when I'm just driving on the street. I understand the Pagids squeak like a pig.
#3
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With the driving mix you have, I recommend two sets of pads - one for streets (OEM will work just find) and one for track (maybe the Pagids but I know there are others out there).
That way, each is optimized for its use. Using a semi-track pad is a compromise on either end - i.e. they will squeal and might corrode your wheels if you don't clean the wheels immediate (ask me how I know this!) and probably isn't as efficient on the track. Separate pads would also help out on the rotor wear.
The pads on the 993, regular and Big Reds, are fairly straight forward to replace vs. other cars which require you to unmount the caliper since you can't slide the pads in from the back. Only slight hassle might be in pushing the pads out to fit in a thicker and there are various tricks to do this ranging from a specific pad spreader tool to using an old pad and some leverage.
That way, each is optimized for its use. Using a semi-track pad is a compromise on either end - i.e. they will squeal and might corrode your wheels if you don't clean the wheels immediate (ask me how I know this!) and probably isn't as efficient on the track. Separate pads would also help out on the rotor wear.
The pads on the 993, regular and Big Reds, are fairly straight forward to replace vs. other cars which require you to unmount the caliper since you can't slide the pads in from the back. Only slight hassle might be in pushing the pads out to fit in a thicker and there are various tricks to do this ranging from a specific pad spreader tool to using an old pad and some leverage.
#4
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Yep,
Two sets of pads are way to go (if you don't want to deal with noise).
Pagid Oranges or Performance Friction (97 compound) are both good choices and don't eat up the rotors too much. And then OEM for street use.
Two sets of pads are way to go (if you don't want to deal with noise).
Pagid Oranges or Performance Friction (97 compound) are both good choices and don't eat up the rotors too much. And then OEM for street use.
#5
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Pagid Oranges aren't that abrasive on the rotors; the Hawk Blues are much harder, a point that is ultimately irrelevant since your rotors will crack long before they are too thin. With the Oranges, I'd worry more about squealing and pad-to-rotor transfer than anything else.
As Finn and Rezal have said, get two sets; swapping pads takes 20 minutes if you have a good jack and a power impact wrench.
As Finn and Rezal have said, get two sets; swapping pads takes 20 minutes if you have a good jack and a power impact wrench.
#6
There seem to be a lot of happy PFC users, I would go w/ Pagid yellow RS19 or RS29, they are expensive but worth it.
Unfortunately switching pads while theoretically a good idea can lead to problems if the friction layers are incompatible.
Unfortunately switching pads while theoretically a good idea can lead to problems if the friction layers are incompatible.
#7
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Bill,
How does one check for layer compatibility? Will following the correct brake pad break-in procedure solve this? I just don't think there's a set of pads that'll do both street and track without compromise.
How does one check for layer compatibility? Will following the correct brake pad break-in procedure solve this? I just don't think there's a set of pads that'll do both street and track without compromise.
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#8
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Hi Rob,
Others have already answered this for you. If you do as much as 15DE days/year, I'd definitely get track pads and swap. Of course, you could just use the OE Textars on the track. They won't last as long as track pads, nor will they have the bite or fade resistance, but depending on your driving style/speed this may not be an issue (i.e. if you're not experienceing brake issues now, theTextars will be just fine).
If you decide on track pads, I've had superb results using the PFC-97 pads, and swapping back to the OEs for my daily commute. No problems at all. It's an easy and quick operation (< 5 minutes/wheel) only if you've ditched the spiders and sensor wires, though. Swap in the Textars with a bit of brake grease on the backs, bed in properly, and you're good to go. I've done this for about 4 years of tracking and zero issues/complaints, other than the additional time spent, of course
Edward
Others have already answered this for you. If you do as much as 15DE days/year, I'd definitely get track pads and swap. Of course, you could just use the OE Textars on the track. They won't last as long as track pads, nor will they have the bite or fade resistance, but depending on your driving style/speed this may not be an issue (i.e. if you're not experienceing brake issues now, theTextars will be just fine).
If you decide on track pads, I've had superb results using the PFC-97 pads, and swapping back to the OEs for my daily commute. No problems at all. It's an easy and quick operation (< 5 minutes/wheel) only if you've ditched the spiders and sensor wires, though. Swap in the Textars with a bit of brake grease on the backs, bed in properly, and you're good to go. I've done this for about 4 years of tracking and zero issues/complaints, other than the additional time spent, of course
Edward
#9
Originally Posted by Rezal
Bill,
How does one check for layer compatibility? Will following the correct brake pad break-in procedure solve this? I just don't think there's a set of pads that'll do both street and track without compromise.
How does one check for layer compatibility? Will following the correct brake pad break-in procedure solve this? I just don't think there's a set of pads that'll do both street and track without compromise.
- abrasion
- adhesion
The older organic and semimetallic/organic pads more by the former method the newer carbon, carbon/ceramic, carbon/metallic high tech pads more by the latter.
the mechanism of abrasion means that the pads will begin to work at the point of maximum rotor runout, actually grinding it down and in the process creating a hot spot.
the high tech pads working more via adhesion, deposit more material on the high spot. Either will cause brake judder, just in slightly different ways.
In the old days bedding wasn't very important but w/ the modern high tech pad materials you want as close to zero runout as possible and a nice smooth evenly deposited layer of the SAME material on the rotor as on the pad for maximum efect.
The same phenomena occurs w/ tires when the Nascar boys lay down a coat of their rubber on a track it can mean big trouble for the sportscars because of the different rubber formulations used.
#11
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Rotors and pads are expendable items and relatively inexpensive items. If you're driving very gently on the track maybe you won't crack the rotors, but with that weight and that speed, I wouldn't count on it.
Porsche has a recommended maximum length for the cracks (7mm). I've gone longer than 7mm and was fine. Porsche's lawyers probably subtracted a few mm's out of there. Also, toss the rotors if a crack connects with two vent holes or if a crack reaches the edge of the disc.
IMHO, if you're on the track, you should be more worried about bending sheet metal than cracking your rotors. Replacing rotors is no big deal.
Porsche has a recommended maximum length for the cracks (7mm). I've gone longer than 7mm and was fine. Porsche's lawyers probably subtracted a few mm's out of there. Also, toss the rotors if a crack connects with two vent holes or if a crack reaches the edge of the disc.
IMHO, if you're on the track, you should be more worried about bending sheet metal than cracking your rotors. Replacing rotors is no big deal.
#12
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hey guys... I just got pleasantly surprised by a set of Front TT EBC Yellowstuff brake pads that cost only $150 + shipping!!! (not as much bite as RS14 Pagid Blacks but probably like Pagid ORange).. I never lost braking once bedded in at Blackhawk this weekend (but I must warn that break in was a total PITA since my rotors were badly groved)
#13
Three Wheelin'
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thanks everyone -
unfort, given my situation (living in nyc, w/o my own tools or garage), i may not have the opportunity to change pads.
So, if i got Pagid Orange, would that still be ok for street. I dont care about squeeling, but i dont want my rotors cracked. Any other pad you recommend, if i need to use one pad for everything?
unfort, given my situation (living in nyc, w/o my own tools or garage), i may not have the opportunity to change pads.
So, if i got Pagid Orange, would that still be ok for street. I dont care about squeeling, but i dont want my rotors cracked. Any other pad you recommend, if i need to use one pad for everything?
#14
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EBC Yellowstuff is rated for 30 to 40 thousand street miles (which obviously decreases based on track use)... so if a dual pad and quieter is your goal and expense is a factor, the $149 + ship cost can't be beat for TT fronts!!
#15
I read through this pretty quick, so my apologies if I reapeat something already posted.
Axxis Ultimate brake pads will give you what you are looking for. These pads are great street performers, and dust less than OEM. At the track, for limited use, they will work very well. Dyno testing shows that these pads equal PAGID 421 performance at a fractin of the cost. (I know, sounds like an advertisement--sorry).
Anyway, I run them, as do many of my cohorts on various applications.
Axxis Ultimate brake pads will give you what you are looking for. These pads are great street performers, and dust less than OEM. At the track, for limited use, they will work very well. Dyno testing shows that these pads equal PAGID 421 performance at a fractin of the cost. (I know, sounds like an advertisement--sorry).
Anyway, I run them, as do many of my cohorts on various applications.