reprogramming key remote
#1
Three Wheelin'
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I apologize in advance if this has been covered, but is there a DIY for programming a keyless remote for a 993?
I got all three keys with my purchase (two with remote, one valet), but only one of the remotes works (yes, it has a good battery and the LED is illuminated).
Thanks...
I got all three keys with my purchase (two with remote, one valet), but only one of the remotes works (yes, it has a good battery and the LED is illuminated).
Thanks...
#2
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Let me be the first to say...search!
search p-car.com
search the owner's manual
Don't attempt this at night - you will set off the alarm unless you are perfect at following directions (which we know is not the case)!! Tongue in cheek of course!!
search p-car.com
search the owner's manual
Don't attempt this at night - you will set off the alarm unless you are perfect at following directions (which we know is not the case)!! Tongue in cheek of course!!
#3
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Jeff:
Search on user "Mike Cap". Mike has detailed instructions that he faxed me when I needed to program a new key. I unfortunately do not have them anymore. I am sure Mike does.
Fight on.
Search on user "Mike Cap". Mike has detailed instructions that he faxed me when I needed to program a new key. I unfortunately do not have them anymore. I am sure Mike does.
Fight on.
#5
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This is what worked for me (plagiarized from the factory repair manual) after I fixed the two different problems with my alarm (fuse 11 open and alarm horn disconnected):
1. Unlock the car with the remote and wait at least 3 minutes for the immobilizer to prime.
2. Switch the ignition on. The warning light (looks like a remote symbol) in the clock will go on and then off after 15 seconds.
3. Switch the ignition off and on again within 5 seconds. The warning light in the clock will light up and start to flash after 15 seconds.
4. Start to enter the key code within 5 seconds. Enter the code by turning the key off-on for each digit of the code. Wait for the warning light in the clock to come back on between each digit of the code. For example: 1302
1 = ignition off-on
wait for warning light to come on
3 = ignition off-on, off-on, off-on
wait for warning light to come on
0= ignition off-on (10 times)
wait for warning light to come on
2=ignition off-on, off-on
5. If the number was entered correctly the warning light will flash after the last digit is entered. When the light is flashing the remote can be programmed and MUST be programmed within one minute.
6. Press the button on the remote until the LED of the alarm system flashes. Operate all the remotes one after the other, wait for the LED to flash after each.
7. When all of the remotes are programmed (no more than 4) switch the ignition off.
1. Unlock the car with the remote and wait at least 3 minutes for the immobilizer to prime.
2. Switch the ignition on. The warning light (looks like a remote symbol) in the clock will go on and then off after 15 seconds.
3. Switch the ignition off and on again within 5 seconds. The warning light in the clock will light up and start to flash after 15 seconds.
4. Start to enter the key code within 5 seconds. Enter the code by turning the key off-on for each digit of the code. Wait for the warning light in the clock to come back on between each digit of the code. For example: 1302
1 = ignition off-on
wait for warning light to come on
3 = ignition off-on, off-on, off-on
wait for warning light to come on
0= ignition off-on (10 times)
wait for warning light to come on
2=ignition off-on, off-on
5. If the number was entered correctly the warning light will flash after the last digit is entered. When the light is flashing the remote can be programmed and MUST be programmed within one minute.
6. Press the button on the remote until the LED of the alarm system flashes. Operate all the remotes one after the other, wait for the LED to flash after each.
7. When all of the remotes are programmed (no more than 4) switch the ignition off.
#6
Nordschleife Master
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Jeff -
Let me be the first to say -- YOUR AVATAR ROCKS ! !
Is that your ball?
I took the lazy way out and had a new remote re-programmed at the dealer.
Fight On!
Scott
Let me be the first to say -- YOUR AVATAR ROCKS ! !
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I took the lazy way out and had a new remote re-programmed at the dealer.
Fight On!
Scott
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#7
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Thanks guys... I will figure it out.
BTW, one of my "switchblade" remote keys was in really bad shape so I bought the separate replacement remote housing and lighted key cap from the dealer (~$90), and followed the DIY on p-car to convert/replace the circuit board and key. Pic below is how it turned out... I like it A LOT more than the cheapy switchblade.
Hey Scott... yep, that's a ball signed by the whole team from the '03-'04 national champs (including glossy photo of Mike Williams and cert of authenticity). My pride and joy, though, is a personalized ball signed by Matt Leinart just a few months ago following the second national championship and his Heisman. A good friend's mother is a teacher at his former high school (Mater Dei), and he came back in Feb this year for a big celebration... she asked him, and he did it. Very cool.
BTW, one of my "switchblade" remote keys was in really bad shape so I bought the separate replacement remote housing and lighted key cap from the dealer (~$90), and followed the DIY on p-car to convert/replace the circuit board and key. Pic below is how it turned out... I like it A LOT more than the cheapy switchblade.
Hey Scott... yep, that's a ball signed by the whole team from the '03-'04 national champs (including glossy photo of Mike Williams and cert of authenticity). My pride and joy, though, is a personalized ball signed by Matt Leinart just a few months ago following the second national championship and his Heisman. A good friend's mother is a teacher at his former high school (Mater Dei), and he came back in Feb this year for a big celebration... she asked him, and he did it. Very cool.
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#8
Nordschleife Master
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Originally Posted by trojanman
Hey Scott... yep, that's a ball signed by the whole team from the '03-'04 national champs (including glossy photo of Mike Williams and cert of authenticity). My pride and joy, though, is a personalized ball signed by Matt Leinart just a few months ago following the second national championship and his Heisman. A good friend's mother is a teacher at his former high school (Mater Dei), and he came back in Feb this year for a big celebration... she asked him, and he did it. Very cool.
Good for you brother! Both items are keeper's for sure. Let the good times roll, and look out '05 season.
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Scott
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#10
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Originally Posted by flyenby
Question, If you enter the digits wrong, will you mess up the realtionship between the remote you already have, and the immobilizer???
#11
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Originally Posted by hoggel
1. Unlock the car with the remote and wait at least 3 minutes for the immobilizer to prime.
Step 1. Unlock, lock and unlock the door in rapid succession. (5 second limit to do this).
#12
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I tried the DIY and it didn't work... everything went great until I went to step 6 and my remote would not make the LED come on, no matter how long I held it there. I tried all steps twice. I wonder if there's something wrong with the circuit board in the remote... the LED flashes when I press and hold the button.
#13
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Originally Posted by trojanman
I tried the DIY and it didn't work...
More info in this thread: 2 remote frequencies
#14
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How do I get my CODE for the key fob remote. Do I need to get it by giving my VIN# to the dealer?
Or can I just purchase the outer casing like Jeff did and not have to retune the remote?
Or can I just purchase the outer casing like Jeff did and not have to retune the remote?
#15
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Hey Scott...
If you have a working switchblade remote, all you have to do is take the circuit board out of it and put it into the new housing... no programming required. Just FYI, there is confusion at the dealers regarding the separate remote and whether the housing can be purchased without the "guts". Newport Beach was able to sell the housing only (~$65) while Walter's in Riverside said they could only sell the whole unit (~$150) which in turn needs to be programmed.
As a side note, my second switchblade has the correct frequency but as I said before, its LED flashes when I hold the button and I cannot seem to get it programmed. Anyone have any advice?
If you have a working switchblade remote, all you have to do is take the circuit board out of it and put it into the new housing... no programming required. Just FYI, there is confusion at the dealers regarding the separate remote and whether the housing can be purchased without the "guts". Newport Beach was able to sell the housing only (~$65) while Walter's in Riverside said they could only sell the whole unit (~$150) which in turn needs to be programmed.
As a side note, my second switchblade has the correct frequency but as I said before, its LED flashes when I hold the button and I cannot seem to get it programmed. Anyone have any advice?