RS side skirt installation help needed.
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
RS side skirt installation help needed.
Surprisingly, the RS side skirt install threw a couple curveballs. The issue I'm struggling with is how to get the rear-most part of the sideskirt flush against the fender. It looks like the "proper" installation would require 3 holes into the side of the fender and use of a steel plate (which I'm NOT going to do) and also one hole in the fender lip. Would double-sided tape be enough to hold the side skirt to the fender? I'm reluctant to drill that hole!
Also, isn't it strange that the side skirt sticks out a couple inches further than the fender liner? It really looks odd.
Thanks for any advice.
Also, isn't it strange that the side skirt sticks out a couple inches further than the fender liner? It really looks odd.
Thanks for any advice.
#4
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Hey Eric,
I have all the info you need but just as I finished the last touches to my reply... my computer dumped.
I will post tomorrow as we just got an invite for a nice dinner..
I have all the info you need but just as I finished the last touches to my reply... my computer dumped.
I will post tomorrow as we just got an invite for a nice dinner..
#5
Eric:
When I did this install on my red car, I trimmed the skirt at the bottom/inside wheel well to blend to the US C2 fender well/bottom panel. I did not like the "crud" catcher with the skirt as supplied, sticking out as shown on your photo.
I used a french curve to trace out the cut and used Dremel to trim the piece. I'll see if I have any photos.
When I did this install on my red car, I trimmed the skirt at the bottom/inside wheel well to blend to the US C2 fender well/bottom panel. I did not like the "crud" catcher with the skirt as supplied, sticking out as shown on your photo.
I used a french curve to trace out the cut and used Dremel to trim the piece. I'll see if I have any photos.
#6
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
If that's how they fit I'm not interested in getting them for my car... the overhang looks horrendous.
Can anyone post pic of how a fully installed part looks for both the front and rear fenderwells? Thanks in advance!
Can anyone post pic of how a fully installed part looks for both the front and rear fenderwells? Thanks in advance!
#7
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Actually, these fit snuggly if all components are there.
There are 2 bibs which cover the large gap between the fairing and the standard wheel well plastic liner. Because of the oil lines on the right side, each is different.
I am busy now but I'll find some time later today to explain with photos what you could do.
Mine is factory standard.
There are 2 bibs which cover the large gap between the fairing and the standard wheel well plastic liner. Because of the oil lines on the right side, each is different.
I am busy now but I'll find some time later today to explain with photos what you could do.
Mine is factory standard.
Trending Topics
#8
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
This has been tough... reading Reds initial post, I went through my pics, found none that would help, went to the car and removed its nightgown. Then crouched by the right rear fender.. the F%^#$&* alarm went off. Fresh underwear needed.
Then take the pics.. prepare the post and add the text and the phone rings... we are going for dinner with friends.. so as I rush through the last keystrokes.. the computer dumped!!!
Now here we go again...
The factory fit requires 2 covers to fill in the gap. In fact, there are a few pieces missing to your puzzle… your aggravation stems from that
From my PET Group 8, Body, page 375..
993 504 481 00 Covers (2)
999 507 427 40 Expander nuts... get a bunch
999 049 008 40 Bunch of these
999 507 480 02 Speed nut 3,5 (get 4 while your at it)
900 025 044 07 Washer A 4,3 (get 4 too)
900 143 124 07 Top speed nut 3,5 X13 (2)
999 591 699 02 Speed nut B4,8 (bunch)
In the first picture, you will note the cut in the fender lip. The small screw hole lines up with it and fastens the top most section of the fairing to the rear fender.
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/rr...__filterlr.jpg
Your "3 screw mounting plate, not used" might be a mistake because this is the weight bearing structure for the rear fairing... the little tabs dont give much support. You will have to drill holes... but the fairings will be permanent so why not? The holes are quite a bit larger than needed.. certainly 5 mm perhaps 6.
This pic shows the final result with no crud trap
Then take the pics.. prepare the post and add the text and the phone rings... we are going for dinner with friends.. so as I rush through the last keystrokes.. the computer dumped!!!
Now here we go again...
The factory fit requires 2 covers to fill in the gap. In fact, there are a few pieces missing to your puzzle… your aggravation stems from that
From my PET Group 8, Body, page 375..
993 504 481 00 Covers (2)
999 507 427 40 Expander nuts... get a bunch
999 049 008 40 Bunch of these
999 507 480 02 Speed nut 3,5 (get 4 while your at it)
900 025 044 07 Washer A 4,3 (get 4 too)
900 143 124 07 Top speed nut 3,5 X13 (2)
999 591 699 02 Speed nut B4,8 (bunch)
In the first picture, you will note the cut in the fender lip. The small screw hole lines up with it and fastens the top most section of the fairing to the rear fender.
http://forums.rennlist.com/upload/rr...__filterlr.jpg
Your "3 screw mounting plate, not used" might be a mistake because this is the weight bearing structure for the rear fairing... the little tabs dont give much support. You will have to drill holes... but the fairings will be permanent so why not? The holes are quite a bit larger than needed.. certainly 5 mm perhaps 6.
This pic shows the final result with no crud trap
#10
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Late addition.
The tabs are fragile. Get an assistant... if mechanically minded so much the better.
Start by doing all the prefitting before inserting the tabs in their holes... coz once in, you'll probably break some off when removing.
Once satisfied all lines up correctly, insert the pins in the predrilled holes in your aft fender and slide gently forward (wiggling) while aligning the tabs with their holes. Insert the tabs in the holes and fasten the front part to the underside. Then attach to the underside.
Did I mention to get a friend??... the tabs are fragile??
The tabs are fragile. Get an assistant... if mechanically minded so much the better.
Start by doing all the prefitting before inserting the tabs in their holes... coz once in, you'll probably break some off when removing.
Once satisfied all lines up correctly, insert the pins in the predrilled holes in your aft fender and slide gently forward (wiggling) while aligning the tabs with their holes. Insert the tabs in the holes and fasten the front part to the underside. Then attach to the underside.
Did I mention to get a friend??... the tabs are fragile??
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks a ton, Jean-Pierre. I really appreciate your finding those part numbers and the pics. I can't believe I didn't know that holes are required for proper installation.
#12
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Pleased to assist. Don't hesitate to ask if anything specific pops up.
After more than one year, I became a contributor instead of "sponging" on the knowledge.
After more than one year, I became a contributor instead of "sponging" on the knowledge.
#13
Burning Brakes
Back to the original question. Yes I drilled the holes in the fender lip to secure the skirts. I have heard that tape works but I don't see how - the tension on the part is high.
#14
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by JC in NY
Back to the original question. Yes I drilled the holes in the fender lip to secure the skirts. I have heard that tape works but I don't see how - the tension on the part is high.
#15
Burning Brakes
Originally Posted by Eric86Red911
... but I just cant make myself drill holes in the front of the fender...