Robin 993DX

Ok, it is my turn!

My driver's side door strap has broken loose from the inside. Everytime I close or open the door it makes two loud crack crack sound. Looks like the welds from the back of the strap is completely loose, the strap base moves right and left as I closes the door.

I have used the search function but really didn't find any easy solutions.

Looks like the only "clean" way to fix this is to remove the fender and fix the strap base from the rear by welding it.

Here are some questions....

Does anyone have the instruction on how to remove the fender? Looks like there are areas of the fender near the windscreen that have sealant affixed to it, so it doesn't looks like it is such an easy bolt and unbolt deal. I also checked both the 964 and 993 shop manual and can't find any references in there on how to remove the fender. Not that I can't figure it out, but it would be helpful to know all the pitfalls before I start turning wrenches.

Randall had mentioned that the door strap base is welded on the bottom of the strap base on the outside pillar of the 964s. But for "cost saving" reasons it is not done that way on the 993s. I am curious if I could just fix this problem by welding it from the outside on the 993. (See below picture)

<img src="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/LeftdoorweldArjansCar2.JPG" alt=" - " />

(Picture from Randall)

3rd option, I was thinking that may I could just drill a hole from the outside all the way into the door strap base and insert a two part metal butterfly type anchor screw so that it expands as it is tighten (the ones you use to mount something in the hollow dry wall) I wonder if there are anchor screws for metal use?

I guess I should have bought that Miller Maxstar 140 square wave TIG welder.... it would have come in handy now.

Flying Finn

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Robin 993 DX In Atlanta/Miami:
<strong>...3rd option, I was thinking that may I could just drill a hole from the outside to all the way into the door strap base and insert a two part metal butterfly type anchor screw so that it expands as it is tighten (the ones you use to mount something in the hollow dry wall) I wonder if there are anchor screws for metal use?

I guess I should have bought that Miller Maxstar 140 square wave welder.... it would have come in handy now.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Robin,

I've thought about solution like that (I don't have the problem, at leasy yet...).
I though of drilling a hole through the piller and the part that loose & then making threads, rather than using butterfly type solution.

There must be something I don't understand because this kind of fix IMO would be really simple and easy to do so I'm thinking there's more to it, I just don't understand?

Robin 993DX

Finn,

Check out the below picture from Kevin, it looks like the base of the strap is sandwitched between the sheet metal of the pillar?

<a href="http://forums.rennlist.com/forums/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=004187;p=2" target="_blank">Door strap pictures</a>

Flying Finn

OK, so is it attached to the back part of the pillar, not behind the front of it (front being the part of the pillar you see when the door is open).

If so, couldn't you drill through the whole pillar (front & rear), than making threads & screwing it? All this from front, without remowing the fender.

Maybe I'm still not quite getting this...

How about just welding it on front? If you make nice welds and then paint the pillar, I don't think it would look "homemade".

Would be a lot quicker & simpler (& cheaper) to do it that way.

I want to look at this closer in my car, there has to be a way to fix this w/out removing the fender.

Robin 993DX

Finn,

The pillar where the strap base is attached to is too thin, so you can get any thread to hold there.

GTR 993

Robin Honea Auto Body in St.Louis fixed mine and I have not had any problems with it at all. I asked them if it was difficult to fix and they said it was fairly simple. You might try them and see if they have any suggestions. They work on a lot of P-cars and highline imports. Ask for Ken.

Robin 993DX

Greg,

Thank you for the lead, I spent 15 minutes talking to Ken, he is a great guy.

He gave me some tips on how to attack this issue, sounds promising. I can't describe it right now as I only have a partial mental image of the solution. Hopefully I can document this so others can benefit from it. (Welding is still needed)

Todd B

Robin,
If you are still looking to remove the fender, here's some info. The top edge of the fender is glued to the trunk space. Up near the windsheild, there's two allen head bolts that need to be removed, you can see them if you open the door and look up under the edge of the fender. Inside the trunk, there are several bolts, these all need to come out.

Todd

Flying Finn

Robin,

I thought the trheads would be on the "t" part of the strap & then bolts would secure it against the inside side of the pillar. Does that make any sense?

Mike J

Here is a picture of what I eventually did. I worked on building a support plate on the front side but it was too ugly. It supported the pins and involved four bolts that went into the pillar. My body shop guy told me that he could make a weld look good so here are is the end result:

<img src="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/MJDoorCheck003.JPG" alt=" - " />

At least it does not look ugly. However I would like to see a fix that bolts through the walls and holds it very firm. I am not sure how long the weld will last but my body guy is my friend and will repair it again.

Robin 993DX

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by Todd B:
<strong>Robin,
If you are still looking to remove the fender, here's some info. The top edge of the fender is glued to the trunk space. Up near the windsheild, there's two allen head bolts that need to be removed, you can see them if you open the door and look up under the edge of the fender. Inside the trunk, there are several bolts, these all need to come out.

Todd</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Todd,

Thank you for the information.

When you place the fender back what glue do you use to replace the factory glue?

Also does the front bumper cover needs to come off in order to remove the fender?

Thanks

Mike J

Robin,

Be carefull if removing the fender. There are fitment issues...ie there is adjustability in some of the bolts to allow for the variances in the production runs. My body guy uses what he calls "dumdum" on the joints...its a soft rubber like material that does not dry up. I would think that the front bumper cover, headlights, etc. would also have to come out but you might be able to work your way around that. Its definitely within a DYI but be prepared to take some time. I use my car daily, so I would also wash the wheel wells before so I am not battling with all the road splatter that builds up.

GeoT3

Robin,
You do not have to remove the fender to access the rear of the A pillar sheet metal where the base of the door check is welded to.

What my body shop did, besides welding the base of the protruding door check to the pillar, he also add welding material to the base of the door check. This spread the load of the door check and added strength to the area sheet metal which he said was very thin by design.

Robin 993DX

George,

Besides gaining access from the inside footwell area, I can't see how he can access that area. Do you know?

GeoT3

Robin,
Take the door off the car and you will be able to access the base of the door stop.

George