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Old 01-10-2005, 01:38 AM
  #106  
Terry Adams
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My part came in last week and is getting installed Tuesday.
Old 01-10-2005, 07:16 AM
  #107  
Toga
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Originally Posted by William Green
Just received the bit from my OPC and fitted in 5 - 10 minutes.

There is an improvement and here is a picture of the old and new side by side
William, is the new one stronger? where is the improvment?

Thanks.
Old 01-10-2005, 08:10 AM
  #108  
Jeff96-993
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Originally Posted by kkim

... Thanks again, Jeff. I thought you had a west coast division now?

Yeah, it's sort of a franchising thing. I'm sure paradise needs its own franchise... then I could write-off a "business" trip to inspect the new division
Old 01-10-2005, 08:19 AM
  #109  
kkim
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Originally Posted by Jeff96-993
Yeah, it's sort of a franchising thing. I'm sure paradise needs its own franchise... then I could write-off a "business" trip to inspect the new division

Anytime, sir. I could handle that.
Old 01-10-2005, 10:26 AM
  #110  
William Green
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Toga,

The parts look the same but the area that has collapsed feels stronger in the new one, that of course may just be that it is new and not started to deteriorate.

The difference is around the 4000 - 5000 rev range and just seems a little more eager to get going.
Old 01-10-2005, 12:29 PM
  #111  
Ron
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Here's a photo of mine. 1997 has 12,600 miles on it. Not collapsed but does look a little bent.

Is this how it should look when a new one is installed since it will be twisted a little?

Last edited by Ron; 02-03-2014 at 12:05 PM.
Old 01-10-2005, 12:57 PM
  #112  
William Green
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Looks like it has begun to collapse, but as it is only about $6 and takes about 10 mins to change, I would whip it right now!
Old 01-10-2005, 06:15 PM
  #113  
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Interesting story:

I changed mine yesterday and took it out for a spin. After warming the engine up for 15 min, I let it loose. After 5k rpms, I heard the difference but then I saw my warning light go off along with the "Antilock". Suddenly I heard something break and then a tapping sound like something was hitting something. I checked the engine and two belts broke. I'm not sure why they broke since i thought they were replaced 10,000 miles ago...unless belts are supposed to only last 10,000 miles...What was really weird was that the large belt didn't show much signs of wear whereas the other belt showed signs of cracking and had some holes in it.
Old 01-10-2005, 11:06 PM
  #114  
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Thanks you guys for the head up. I was reading the thread and sure enough mine was crimped as well. Boy, is this place great or what.
Greg
Old 03-13-2006, 12:46 AM
  #115  
gonzilla
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Default Something else to look out for...

I've had my 96 C2 for about a month and a half now. After an oil change/PPI (or post-purchase inspection) at Callas Rennsport turned up the old collapsed "engine vacuum port" (CR's words) a few weeks ago, I decided that I would go ahead and change it out myself as the PO included a spare "air distribution fitting" (Pelican Parts' words) in with a bunch of parts. I read in this thread about everyone putting the brass tubing inside the port to act as a sort of stint. I know from the PO that he had put one in. I didn't understand how it had collapsed. I took it out and looked at it and the brass fitting had turned sideways to almost completely block any airflow.

Here's what the piece looked like when I took it out.



You can see how the brass fitting has rotated in this picture.



And you can see how little airflow I was getting in this one.



The brass fitting in my port was only about 4mm in length. After measuring the distance between the two feeders on the side, I would think that you may be able to make it about 9mm long at max without restricting airflow to the two feeders. By making it longer, maybe this would prevent the brass fitting from rotating like mine did.
Right now, I just have a new port in there with no reinforcement at all. I'm wondering if some kind of retaining reinforcement on the outside might not be a possible solution as well. I was going to put a zip tie on there, but I don't think it would help too much as it's not really circular. Any ideas? Anyone else have problems with the brass ring or is it just me?
Old 03-13-2006, 01:27 AM
  #116  
InTheAir
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Wow, thanks for resurrecting this thread. It's news to me.

I guess I have another DIY to do.
Old 03-13-2006, 01:58 AM
  #117  
gonzilla
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Originally Posted by InTheAir
Wow, thanks for resurrecting this thread. It's news to me.

I guess I have another DIY to do.
Sure Jeff. It's really easy as long as you can fit your hands in there. It's a tight squeeze, but pretty self explanitory once you see everything. I would suggest replacing one vacuum line at a time so they don't get lost in the back of the engine compartment (mine almost did!)
Old 03-13-2006, 10:52 AM
  #118  
epj993
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Yes, too short & you could have a problem. I cut my tube to roughly 5/16" (8-9mm) & not had any issues. Although after your post, I plan to double check it later today.
Old 03-13-2006, 11:17 AM
  #119  
InTheAir
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I read through this thread (yes, the entire thing) last night and recall that many say there is only one of these Vacuum Line Fittings on the car. However, Pelican states there are two. Any confirmation one way or the other??

Highlighted in green: http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/...10-573-00-M100
Old 03-13-2006, 11:28 AM
  #120  
epj993
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According to the PET CD, the exploded view shows the part twice but is labeled with the same callout number & listed with a quantity of one (1). I think it's shown twice for clarity in the diagram.


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