First day behind the wheel (long)
11-21-2001, 02:44 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
First day behind the wheel (long)
Yesterday I flew from the Bay Area to Orange County to pick up my new baby. White '96 coupe with black interior. Dual power seats, 18" wheels, 27k miles.
Unfortunately due to time constraints I had to travel north on I-5, which isn't exactly the most exciting stretch of road. Between dodging trucks and SUVs (who invariably drive up on your tail when you're going 80 and speed past at 85+)and traveling in the dark, it was a long tiring ride.
But the car is fantastic. The seat is comfortable, acceleration is good, and everything good ever said about the 993 was in evidence. Only missed two shifts the entire way (went from 4 to 3 instead of 5 a couple of times).
Here are some specific comments/questions though.
Immobilizer. Occasionally after unlocking the car and putting the key in the ignition, the car won't start. I was told to press the button on the key fob if this happened, but sometimes I had to hit the button a couple of times to get it to turn over. I thought that you had some period of time after unlocking the car to start it before the Immobilizer kicks in...is this not the case? I sure wouldn't want to need a quick getaway with this problem.
Rattle. At cruising speed (75-80 or so...remember I didn't want a ticket my first day) there was a constant rattle. Not very loud, and after a while you didn't notice it, but with the radio off you could hear it. I had a hard time figuring out where it was coming from...not sure if it was the windshield, the sunroof, or from the gearshift area. Any ideas?
Radio. The worst since my old 1978 Ford Fiesta. And since I didn't have any cassettes handy (or any vinyl LPs for that matter) I was forced to listen to it. Let's just say that the CD-210 isn't going to cut it. I'll save my money for an upgrade. The radio description in the owners manual was pretty funny...something along the lines of "radio operation in autos isn't very good..here's why".
Rear seatbelts. This morning I was all set to take my boys for a ride, and put their booster seats in. Everything fit well. But I couldn't get one of the belts to extend. It was locked in the fully retracted position. Any tricks to unlock the belt?
Option codes. The car has codes 233,329,398,437,438,445,454,490, and 650 on the sticker under the bonnet. But the car has 18" Turbo look wheels, not the 17" cup wheels (398). And code 490 I think means HiFi sound, but I don't think mine has it (at least I hope it doesn't...I'd be mad if I paid $930 for this option). Any reasons for these discrepancies?
That's all I can think of for now. Hopefully I'll be able to post a picture or two shortly.
Unfortunately due to time constraints I had to travel north on I-5, which isn't exactly the most exciting stretch of road. Between dodging trucks and SUVs (who invariably drive up on your tail when you're going 80 and speed past at 85+)and traveling in the dark, it was a long tiring ride.
But the car is fantastic. The seat is comfortable, acceleration is good, and everything good ever said about the 993 was in evidence. Only missed two shifts the entire way (went from 4 to 3 instead of 5 a couple of times).
Here are some specific comments/questions though.
Immobilizer. Occasionally after unlocking the car and putting the key in the ignition, the car won't start. I was told to press the button on the key fob if this happened, but sometimes I had to hit the button a couple of times to get it to turn over. I thought that you had some period of time after unlocking the car to start it before the Immobilizer kicks in...is this not the case? I sure wouldn't want to need a quick getaway with this problem.
Rattle. At cruising speed (75-80 or so...remember I didn't want a ticket my first day) there was a constant rattle. Not very loud, and after a while you didn't notice it, but with the radio off you could hear it. I had a hard time figuring out where it was coming from...not sure if it was the windshield, the sunroof, or from the gearshift area. Any ideas?
Radio. The worst since my old 1978 Ford Fiesta. And since I didn't have any cassettes handy (or any vinyl LPs for that matter) I was forced to listen to it. Let's just say that the CD-210 isn't going to cut it. I'll save my money for an upgrade. The radio description in the owners manual was pretty funny...something along the lines of "radio operation in autos isn't very good..here's why".
Rear seatbelts. This morning I was all set to take my boys for a ride, and put their booster seats in. Everything fit well. But I couldn't get one of the belts to extend. It was locked in the fully retracted position. Any tricks to unlock the belt?
Option codes. The car has codes 233,329,398,437,438,445,454,490, and 650 on the sticker under the bonnet. But the car has 18" Turbo look wheels, not the 17" cup wheels (398). And code 490 I think means HiFi sound, but I don't think mine has it (at least I hope it doesn't...I'd be mad if I paid $930 for this option). Any reasons for these discrepancies?
That's all I can think of for now. Hopefully I'll be able to post a picture or two shortly.
11-21-2001, 03:02 PM
#2
Congratlations on your new Porsche.. I'm also in the Menlo Park, perhaps we should get together for a drive sometime, or if you want to work on your car.. 
I've had some problems with the immobolizer also. I sometimes have to take the key out, lock the car ( using the immob ), and then unlock the car ( using the immob ). Things work fine then. You should also keep a spare immobolizer battery in your car, just in case. If you have the switch blade, you can do a conversion to a smaller one for about $35.00.
Your options are: ( Thanks to this
site )
329 Radio - ?
398 Left outside mirror - electric - plain [Prior to 1996]
398 17 " 5-Spoke Wheels (P205/50ZR17 front, P225/40ZR17 rear) [1996]
398 18" Technology Design Wheels [1997]
437 Comfort seat left
438 Comfort seat right
445 Wheel Rim Caps with Porsche Crest
454 Automatic speed control
490 Hi-Fi sound system
650 Sunroof
Some things that you might also want to get for your car is the updated DME relay. Check the archives for this one.
Jeff
I've had some problems with the immobolizer also. I sometimes have to take the key out, lock the car ( using the immob ), and then unlock the car ( using the immob ). Things work fine then. You should also keep a spare immobolizer battery in your car, just in case. If you have the switch blade, you can do a conversion to a smaller one for about $35.00.
Your options are: ( Thanks to this
site )
329 Radio - ?
398 Left outside mirror - electric - plain [Prior to 1996]
398 17 " 5-Spoke Wheels (P205/50ZR17 front, P225/40ZR17 rear) [1996]
398 18" Technology Design Wheels [1997]
437 Comfort seat left
438 Comfort seat right
445 Wheel Rim Caps with Porsche Crest
454 Automatic speed control
490 Hi-Fi sound system
650 Sunroof
Some things that you might also want to get for your car is the updated DME relay. Check the archives for this one.
Jeff
11-21-2001, 03:11 PM
#3
Congrats on your purchase. I'll try to take a stab at a few of your issues:
I've had some screwy experiences with the immobilizer, including having it once initiate a lock down of the car with me on the outside, the windows up, and the key in the ignition. I've found that the rubbery surface on the fob makes it hard to sometimes engage the switch, which could be why you had to click the button more than once -- you may not have gotten it the first time.
That rattle could very likely be the windshield squeak that these cars are notorious for. Most people, including me, have had good luck with the foam cord/silicon lubricant fix. Sometimes you have to do the rear window as well. Everything you need is available from Schatz Motorsports for less than $50. It's a simple DIY and very gratifying.
From your codes it looks like you have hi-fi. It's possible that someone removed that system or that you still have it, as the hi-fi sound system really isn't impressive. Others can comment on good alternative solutions.
Try giving that seat belt a good sharp tug. This should cause the inertia mechanism to re-engage and reel it in. Search the archives here for more detail if that doesn't work, as I recall someone posting on a similar problem. I do recall them saying that extreme caution should be exercised before actually trying to open the seat belt retraction unit, as parts can go flying.
Below is a listing of your options, which you may have already. You may have had a late '96 production which got you the 18" tech wheels, as the 398 code shows two options.
From my prior experience, I'd recommend the motorsound retro-fit option if your car doesn't already have it. It sounds killer and may eliminate the need for a new sound system.
Have fun.
Code Option Description
329 Radio - ?
398 Left outside mirror - electric - plain [Prior to 1996]
398 17 " 5-Spoke Wheels (P205/50ZR17 front, P225/40ZR17 rear) [1996]
398 18" Technology Design Wheels [1997]
437 Comfort seat left
438 Comfort seat right
445 Wheel Rim Caps with Porsche Crest
454 Automatic speed control
490 Hi-Fi sound system
650 Sunroof
I've had some screwy experiences with the immobilizer, including having it once initiate a lock down of the car with me on the outside, the windows up, and the key in the ignition. I've found that the rubbery surface on the fob makes it hard to sometimes engage the switch, which could be why you had to click the button more than once -- you may not have gotten it the first time.
That rattle could very likely be the windshield squeak that these cars are notorious for. Most people, including me, have had good luck with the foam cord/silicon lubricant fix. Sometimes you have to do the rear window as well. Everything you need is available from Schatz Motorsports for less than $50. It's a simple DIY and very gratifying.
From your codes it looks like you have hi-fi. It's possible that someone removed that system or that you still have it, as the hi-fi sound system really isn't impressive. Others can comment on good alternative solutions.
Try giving that seat belt a good sharp tug. This should cause the inertia mechanism to re-engage and reel it in. Search the archives here for more detail if that doesn't work, as I recall someone posting on a similar problem. I do recall them saying that extreme caution should be exercised before actually trying to open the seat belt retraction unit, as parts can go flying.
Below is a listing of your options, which you may have already. You may have had a late '96 production which got you the 18" tech wheels, as the 398 code shows two options.
From my prior experience, I'd recommend the motorsound retro-fit option if your car doesn't already have it. It sounds killer and may eliminate the need for a new sound system.
Have fun.
Code Option Description
329 Radio - ?
398 Left outside mirror - electric - plain [Prior to 1996]
398 17 " 5-Spoke Wheels (P205/50ZR17 front, P225/40ZR17 rear) [1996]
398 18" Technology Design Wheels [1997]
437 Comfort seat left
438 Comfort seat right
445 Wheel Rim Caps with Porsche Crest
454 Automatic speed control
490 Hi-Fi sound system
650 Sunroof
11-21-2001, 03:18 PM
#4
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Thread Starter
Originally posted by Jeff 993TT:
<STRONG>If you have the switch blade, you can do a conversion to a smaller one for about $35.00.
Jeff</STRONG>
<STRONG>If you have the switch blade, you can do a conversion to a smaller one for about $35.00.
Jeff</STRONG>
Thanks
11-21-2001, 03:50 PM
#5
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The switchblade refers to the style key you may have...Robin's site has the DIY instructions.
ENJOY! http://p-car.com/diy/key/
ENJOY! http://p-car.com/diy/key/
11-21-2001, 04:00 PM
#6
Kevin,
On cars equipped with the immobilizer, turn the key to start position and then hit the button again (the alarm light in the clock should flash). The car should now start.
The OEM radio has alway been a bad joke. But, I am happy they spend the money on the drive train instead.
On cars equipped with the immobilizer, turn the key to start position and then hit the button again (the alarm light in the clock should flash). The car should now start.
The OEM radio has alway been a bad joke. But, I am happy they spend the money on the drive train instead.
11-21-2001, 04:05 PM
#7
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Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Kevin
Just a few additions to the prior posts:
Immobilizer - Replace the remote battery, unless you know it's a fresh one. Ditto on essential to keep a spare battery in your glovebox. RadioShack part #23-154 for a 2 pack. It's a 12v battery & is inexpensive. The same battery is used in many garage door remotes & is the same as #23, 23M, VR22, EL22 - among others.
Radio - w/HiFi sound it's not great, but not as bad as you describe. Is the problem radio reception? If so, may be antenna amp or connection problem. Does it sound better w/cassette?
Rear Seatbelt - Exert a very steady, but very hard straight pull on the belt to take up any slack & then abruptly let up causing the belt to "jump" in a bit. A few such efforts and the belt should release. It's easier to do than to explain, but it works.
Options - HiFi easy to spot. The door panels & door speakers are different. This is std door panel:
This is HiFi door panel(courtesy of p-car.com DIY):
The details of the key conversion from the oem "switchblade" (which is prone to breaking &/or opening by itself in your pocket) are at: DIY Key Conversion. It's a simple job.
Hope some of this is helpful & welcome aboard.
Just a few additions to the prior posts:
Immobilizer - Replace the remote battery, unless you know it's a fresh one. Ditto on essential to keep a spare battery in your glovebox. RadioShack part #23-154 for a 2 pack. It's a 12v battery & is inexpensive. The same battery is used in many garage door remotes & is the same as #23, 23M, VR22, EL22 - among others.
Radio - w/HiFi sound it's not great, but not as bad as you describe. Is the problem radio reception? If so, may be antenna amp or connection problem. Does it sound better w/cassette?
Rear Seatbelt - Exert a very steady, but very hard straight pull on the belt to take up any slack & then abruptly let up causing the belt to "jump" in a bit. A few such efforts and the belt should release. It's easier to do than to explain, but it works.
Options - HiFi easy to spot. The door panels & door speakers are different. This is std door panel:
This is HiFi door panel(courtesy of p-car.com DIY):
The details of the key conversion from the oem "switchblade" (which is prone to breaking &/or opening by itself in your pocket) are at: DIY Key Conversion. It's a simple job.
Hope some of this is helpful & welcome aboard.
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11-21-2001, 04:40 PM
#8
Pro
Thread Starter
Thanks all. I don't have the switchblade key (I have the endproduct of the DIY), so I won't need to do the DIY conversion. Maybe the PO did the project! I'll change the battery though and have some spares on hand.
Regarding the HiFi system, it sure looks like I have it. Does anyone know what is included in the option...there must be more to it than 4 additional speakers for the $930 price tag.
Regarding the HiFi system, it sure looks like I have it. Does anyone know what is included in the option...there must be more to it than 4 additional speakers for the $930 price tag.
11-21-2001, 04:54 PM
#9
my car has the hi-fi option and it includes 10 speakers (3 in each door & 4 in rear shelf) and 100 watt amp (4 X 25).
I agree the sound isn't the greatest, I would also be interested in hearing an inexpensive way to upgrade.
Good luck with your new car!
Tom
I agree the sound isn't the greatest, I would also be interested in hearing an inexpensive way to upgrade.
Good luck with your new car!
Tom
11-21-2001, 05:06 PM
#10
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I think Kevin describes a seat belt that does not want to come out not the opposite as the replies suggest. I've had the same issue. You pull on either of the 2 rear seatbelts and it is locked, does not want to come out. I have found no magic cure other than trying to very gingerly pull it out but at least on one ocassion it did not want to budge and come out at all.
Luis
Luis
11-21-2001, 07:21 PM
#12
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Originally posted by Luis A.:
<STRONG>I think Kevin describes a seat belt that does not want to come out not the opposite as the replies suggest. I've had the same issue. You pull on either of the 2 rear seatbelts and it is locked, does not want to come out. I have found no magic cure other than trying to very gingerly pull it out but at least on one ocassion it did not want to budge and come out at all.</STRONG>
<STRONG>I think Kevin describes a seat belt that does not want to come out not the opposite as the replies suggest. I've had the same issue. You pull on either of the 2 rear seatbelts and it is locked, does not want to come out. I have found no magic cure other than trying to very gingerly pull it out but at least on one ocassion it did not want to budge and come out at all.</STRONG>
"Rear Seatbelt - Exert a very steady, but very hard straight pull on the belt to take up any slack & then abruptly let up causing the belt to "jump" in a bit. A few such efforts and the belt should release."
11-21-2001, 07:48 PM
#13
Pro
Thread Starter
Originally posted by Dan 96C2 St.Louis:
<STRONG>
The fix I described above IS for a rear seat belt that is locked in the fully reeled in position. Try it - it's worked for me 2x & others as well.
</STRONG>
<STRONG>
The fix I described above IS for a rear seat belt that is locked in the fully reeled in position. Try it - it's worked for me 2x & others as well.
</STRONG>
11-21-2001, 10:34 PM
#15
Hi Kevin,
About the rattle. I experienced similar rattling in my 993 Targa. My noise came from below the driver's seat, so the temporary fix was to stuff a towel underneath the seat to get rid of it. Also, I found by lower the seat a bit more, the sound also went away.
John
About the rattle. I experienced similar rattling in my 993 Targa. My noise came from below the driver's seat, so the temporary fix was to stuff a towel underneath the seat to get rid of it. Also, I found by lower the seat a bit more, the sound also went away.
John