HID GROUP BUY
03-03-2003, 06:45 PM
#76
Eric, just took a look at that link. Looks good. I would maybe like to see a comment about insulating the positive feed though (the pic shows a bit of red sleeving, but doesn't mention sliding it over the exposed connector).
In the 993 the easiest place to get the ground from is within the headlamp itself (so all connections are made to the light). When the rear cover is removed the installer should see a brown wire fitted to a post moulded onto the rear bulb mount casting. I suggest this is unplugged, and the earth connection from the ballast/ignitor connected to this using a bullet connector.
Oh, and then sleeve (or tape) this joint too <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
I hope this helps you do your install Chris.
Cheers,
John.
In the 993 the easiest place to get the ground from is within the headlamp itself (so all connections are made to the light). When the rear cover is removed the installer should see a brown wire fitted to a post moulded onto the rear bulb mount casting. I suggest this is unplugged, and the earth connection from the ballast/ignitor connected to this using a bullet connector.
Oh, and then sleeve (or tape) this joint too <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
I hope this helps you do your install Chris.
Cheers,
John.
03-03-2003, 08:04 PM
#77
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Yea John, I forgot to put a blurb in there about electrical tape 
Regarding ground. It is better to ground to the body of the car. Sometimes the ground within harnesses or housings are not as good and could cause intermittent issues with flickering or discoloration.
Regarding ground. It is better to ground to the body of the car. Sometimes the ground within harnesses or housings are not as good and could cause intermittent issues with flickering or discoloration.
03-03-2003, 08:21 PM
#78
Eric,
I can't fault your reasoning on the ground, but if you take a look at my pictures on <a href="http://photos.yahoo.com/etjw_porschepics" target="_blank">http://photos.yahoo.com/etjw_porschepics</a> you will see how the lights come totally out of the car, and how tricky it would be to have an umbilical cord attached to the back going into the trunk...
Also, the looms for the lights have an earth connection from the fixed plug that goes pretty much straight to the body anyway, so it is still good enough for the HIDs (IMO).
Sorry about the link, couldn't be bothered to fire up the normal reply window just to past an html link (lazy I know).
Cheers,
John.
I can't fault your reasoning on the ground, but if you take a look at my pictures on <a href="http://photos.yahoo.com/etjw_porschepics" target="_blank">http://photos.yahoo.com/etjw_porschepics</a> you will see how the lights come totally out of the car, and how tricky it would be to have an umbilical cord attached to the back going into the trunk...
Also, the looms for the lights have an earth connection from the fixed plug that goes pretty much straight to the body anyway, so it is still good enough for the HIDs (IMO).
Sorry about the link, couldn't be bothered to fire up the normal reply window just to past an html link (lazy I know).
Cheers,
John.
03-03-2003, 08:29 PM
#79
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Originally posted by liteswap:
<strong>It is better to ground to the body of the car. Sometimes the ground within harnesses or housings are not as good and could cause intermittent issues with flickering or discoloration.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Eric
1. While theoretically true, the factory Litronics uses the ground connection John W is referring to so I'd assume it's fine.
2. It's worked flawlessly for a number of us for a few years now.
3. The alternative isn't very practical if ease of headlight removal is important.
<strong>It is better to ground to the body of the car. Sometimes the ground within harnesses or housings are not as good and could cause intermittent issues with flickering or discoloration.</strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana,Tahoma,Helvetica">Eric
1. While theoretically true, the factory Litronics uses the ground connection John W is referring to so I'd assume it's fine.
2. It's worked flawlessly for a number of us for a few years now.
3. The alternative isn't very practical if ease of headlight removal is important.
03-04-2003, 01:38 AM
#83
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Im not going to do the DIY write up tonite but here are some before and after shots..The pics dont even do them justice..They are great looking and have quite a bit of blue in them. Im glad I didnt go with the 5500K. The install was rather straight forward and only took about an hour a side. If I wasnt taking pics it could have been done much quicker. <a href="http://members.rennlist.com/96p993/before-light.jpg" target="_blank">before</a>
<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/96p993/after-light.jpg" target="_blank">after</a>
<a href="http://members.rennlist.com/96p993/after-light.jpg" target="_blank">after</a>
03-04-2003, 10:30 AM
#85
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96P993
They look great!
How difficult was the install? Any issues or are you recommending the kit?
Thanks again for taking the lead on this I'm sure it took a lot of time.
-Skip
They look great!
How difficult was the install? Any issues or are you recommending the kit?
Thanks again for taking the lead on this I'm sure it took a lot of time.
-Skip
03-04-2003, 10:38 AM
#86
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I do recommend them..The install was about a 4.5 on a scale of 1-10. The kit is easy to understand once you look at it and then look at the headlight. The on ly creative things you have to figure out are as follows:
Once the bulb is in the clip that held in the OEM bulb has to be bent to make it fit on the HID bulb. Where to put the ignitor, and where to permanently put the ballast. Other then that, it seems to be rather straight forward. I have about 25 pics that show the entire process so let me get the DIY done and I will get it out...The kit gets my seal of APPROVAL (whatever that means) For those of you who have emailed me your interest, Until I get a definate yes and your full name and shipping address I cant put you on the list.
Thanks
Once the bulb is in the clip that held in the OEM bulb has to be bent to make it fit on the HID bulb. Where to put the ignitor, and where to permanently put the ballast. Other then that, it seems to be rather straight forward. I have about 25 pics that show the entire process so let me get the DIY done and I will get it out...The kit gets my seal of APPROVAL (whatever that means) For those of you who have emailed me your interest, Until I get a definate yes and your full name and shipping address I cant put you on the list.
Thanks
03-04-2003, 10:41 AM
#87
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Ok, I'm ready to drop the hammer. What's the price differential between the 4500k and the 5500k? The 4500ks appear to be providing the "look" I want, so the 5500ks may be overkill.
E-mail.... away!
E-mail.... away!
03-04-2003, 01:25 PM
#89
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For those of you contemplating the 5500K, just keep in mind that with time, the 4500K kits shift color (think of it a a break in period).
After a few hundred hours, they will be closer to the 5000K mark. This isnt a characteristic with OUR capsules, but ALL HID capsules. Some generic capsules will shift faster and higher, but quality OEM grade bulbs will do this more slowly, hence a longer lasting capsule.
I think Chris also forgot to mention that you need to drill a 1" or so hole to run the wires through, said hole sealed with a supplied rubber grommet.
After a few hundred hours, they will be closer to the 5000K mark. This isnt a characteristic with OUR capsules, but ALL HID capsules. Some generic capsules will shift faster and higher, but quality OEM grade bulbs will do this more slowly, hence a longer lasting capsule.
I think Chris also forgot to mention that you need to drill a 1" or so hole to run the wires through, said hole sealed with a supplied rubber grommet.