HID lights for 993
03-09-2019, 09:20 AM
#16
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
I am testing these new LED bulbs at this moment.
Not only for performance, but also how long they will last and if they can withstand vibrations.
Not only for performance, but also how long they will last and if they can withstand vibrations.
03-10-2019, 03:18 PM
#18
One of the other threads that spoke about upgrades and mods for 993's recommended Bergville lights.. I have a 98 911 Cab with 32,000 miles on it. It is stock as we speak. I did just order Fister II mufflers and would also be interested in better lights. Bergville is out of the country and it is hard to call them on the phone. Are there any other places you guys might recommend for HID lights as well as LED?
I also would be interested in a chip upgrade but it sounds like that is much more involved than it was on my 89 911.
I also would be interested in a chip upgrade but it sounds like that is much more involved than it was on my 89 911.
On a non Vram it can smooth out mid-range torque and help stalls if LWF is fitted but outright power increase is hardly noticable perhaps 15 bhp. When I converted to Vram I didn't bother, not stalled once and plenty of midrage improvement.
03-10-2019, 10:03 PM
#20
03-11-2019, 01:24 AM
#21
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by ed devinney
I substantially rebuilt the headlights using ballasts from Bergville, HID projectors from RetroFit, and an LED high beam from Cyclops following the recipes here (which have pix):
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...upgrade-3.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...-beam-mod.html
You can go much simpler, with Bergville bulbs and ballasts in the factory low beam projectors and keep the halogen high beams. Neither approach requires cutting or splicing, but the full-boat rebuild requires a lot more mechanical disassembly and assembly than the simple bulb + ballast swap. Regardless of path, you will want to use the Bergville ballasts as they fit inside the headlight housing in the same fashion as OEM.
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...upgrade-3.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/993-foru...-beam-mod.html
You can go much simpler, with Bergville bulbs and ballasts in the factory low beam projectors and keep the halogen high beams. Neither approach requires cutting or splicing, but the full-boat rebuild requires a lot more mechanical disassembly and assembly than the simple bulb + ballast swap. Regardless of path, you will want to use the Bergville ballasts as they fit inside the headlight housing in the same fashion as OEM.
03-11-2019, 01:26 AM
#22
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Originally Posted by ed devinney
The tail light ballast is required to make the cruise control work properly. It's the only thing that requires splicing, and is super easy - 2 scotchlocks and you're done. I rarely if ever use the cruise control, but added the smart ballast just so that things were complete.
03-11-2019, 06:01 AM
#23
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
JPS - you replaced all brake lamps with LED, including the 3rd?
03-11-2019, 01:07 PM
#25
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
03-11-2019, 01:11 PM
#26
Rennlist Member
First of all, the use of LED's in rear/brake lights is not the topic of this thread. However, I'll try remove any misunderstandings:
LED bulbs use considerably less current than normal incandescent bulbs. The reduced current load on the brake light circuit is detected by the Cruise Control unit as a fault,(no brake lights are working) and it will not allow engaging of cruise function.
Our Smart Ballast simulates the normal incandescent bulb current load, but without wasting energy or the need for bulky or very hot ballast resistors. The load on the brake light circuit must be finely balanced, and the Smart Ballast is therefore made for use in conjunction with our red 1157 LED bulbs, used in the rear brake lights, which contains an internal load resistor as well.
The Smart Ballast is ONLY needed if your car has a cruise control system, AND you are solely using LED's as brake lights. This means LED's in the normal rear/brake lights, and LEDs in the third brake light if fitted.
Only one Smart Ballast is needed per car.
Cars without Cruise Control do not need this device.
If you keep one or both incandescent bulbs in the normal rear/brake lights, or keep the original incandescent third brake light, you do NOT need the Smart Ballast.
Cheers,
Tore
LED bulbs use considerably less current than normal incandescent bulbs. The reduced current load on the brake light circuit is detected by the Cruise Control unit as a fault,(no brake lights are working) and it will not allow engaging of cruise function.
Our Smart Ballast simulates the normal incandescent bulb current load, but without wasting energy or the need for bulky or very hot ballast resistors. The load on the brake light circuit must be finely balanced, and the Smart Ballast is therefore made for use in conjunction with our red 1157 LED bulbs, used in the rear brake lights, which contains an internal load resistor as well.
The Smart Ballast is ONLY needed if your car has a cruise control system, AND you are solely using LED's as brake lights. This means LED's in the normal rear/brake lights, and LEDs in the third brake light if fitted.
Only one Smart Ballast is needed per car.
Cars without Cruise Control do not need this device.
If you keep one or both incandescent bulbs in the normal rear/brake lights, or keep the original incandescent third brake light, you do NOT need the Smart Ballast.
Cheers,
Tore
03-11-2019, 03:09 PM
#28
I have Tore and Retrofit. So far, so good - both seem great.
My two noobie questions:
My two noobie questions:
- Retrofit - What is that cable that comes off the projector. Is it only used if I use the beam splitter and want to connect the Hi-beam. If not, I'm not sure what I'm supposed to do with it.
- Cyclops? Where do I find link to this cyclops high beam specific for 993? Any issues with it?
04-19-2019, 09:49 AM
#30
