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A lot of us had PPF done professionally and ceramic coated T ourselves (including me). Not difficult. Lots of utube instructional vids….recommend. Also, suggest varying RPMs during break-in…
You just convinced me to cancel my ceramic appointment on Friday. Lost my deposit, but I'll still come in much cheaper doing it myself. Hope it's not too bad of a process lol 😁
You just convinced me to cancel my ceramic appointment on Friday. Lost my deposit, but I'll still come in much cheaper doing it myself. Hope it's not too bad of a process lol 😁
A touch up of griots 3 in 1 ceramic after every wash is a good way to go too
Sent you a PM...Rockers received, but flip down support tabs have been removed
Send them back to me at the shipping price I charged you and I’ll cut them up and use them for wall art. They were damned near free. No good deed goes unpunished. 🤣
shipped them to this guy for $45 cost me $120 and now he calls me out publicly because tabs are gone. Bless your heart. ❤️
Send them back to me at the shipping price I charged you and I’ll cut them up and use them for wall art. They were damned near free. No good deed goes unpunished. 🤣
shipped them to this guy for $45 cost me $120 and now he calls me out publicly because tabs are gone. Bless your heart. ❤️
Hmmm..."Good deed"...is that what scammers call it now... are you claiming to be some kind of scammer hero because YOU posted that $45 would cover the entire deal, then you further damaged the items from the original pictures posted.
It's not the price...I could care less if the part was $4.50 or $4500...it's the principle of knowingly scamming people and expecting not to be called out when discovered.
You could have easily come back before you shipped them and said, hey these are pretty large and I underestimated the shipping...and ...oh by the way, they have further damage, I removed the rocker support tabs that should have not been removed and were shown in my original posting picture. I may have still bought them or decided not to go that route...no harm no foul.
I PM'd you not asking for a refund...but an explanation as to why the tabs were removed and why it was not disclosed.
So that everyone interested in this conversation sees what transpired, this was my PM...
"Thanks for sending these and sorry the shipping was more than estimated.
I just returned home from a trip and just opened the package.
Quick question....in some of your pictures you show the flip down support tabs still in place, but after opening the package and inspecting the rockers those tabs are now missing. The tabs are kind of critical to keeping maintain the shape of the rockers when installed.
Is there a reason for their removal and not sharing that info prior to the sale?
Even after fixing the creases, the rockers are not usable without the internal supports."
And this is how you responded
"shove them up your *** skippy."
I'm a firm believer in Karma...so on one of those days when something really sh*tty happens in your life, reflect back on this interaction.
Hey, I just had a great thought for people like you... I just might give my CC co. a call and dispute the transaction. I'll break it down into little words, so you understand. You see when I dispute the charge, the CC co. will file a dispute with PayPal. PayPal will then place a hold on those funds being disputed until a decision has been made...usually takes about 30-45 days for a resolution....and since I already have the product and paid you, you'll be the one without access to the funds for a while.
Thanks for posting a picture of the new set the dealer sent you and not the ones sent to me...
I purchased Rich's Signature wheels when he sold his T. Thought the group would like to see the weight differences between the stock rims and Signature. It's a lot more than I thought it would be.
I purchased Rich's Signature wheels when he sold his T. Thought the group would like to see the weight differences between the stock rims and Signature. It's a lot more than I thought it would be
Glad someone picked those up from him. Seemed like he was letting them go at bargain price. Good deal…
Just curious. What is that measurement? I have the stock Carrera S wheels and we measured 25 lbs front and 31 lbs rear….just rims.
Hold up…wait a minute. Nevermind…ha, closer look…has tires on them…
Did u drive with new rims yet? I noticed difference with lighter rims…immediately…
I purchased Rich's Signature wheels when he sold his T. Thought the group would like to see the weight differences between the stock rims and Signature. It's a lot more than I thought it would be.
REARS
FRONTS
Do the signature wheels have the same wdith as stock (8.5/11.5) ?
@J Irwan They are the same widths by a slightly different offset to make them more flush with the fenders. @ECNJ Correct! The tires are mounted. I haven't gotten to drive the car with them on yet. I sacrificed my lunch to get them on the car today. lol
Yeah, a lot of us don’t come here as often as we used to. Trying to check in more often….and get fellow T-mates to post more pics of their T in the wild. I appreciate good photography…
Life is gr8 especially with a 911😀. Similar to @arrivederci recent post…after a stressful day at work/in life…take my T on some winding roads and I’m all smiles inside. As my car designer family/friends say…cars are essentially just a bunch of nuts and bolts, but what joy they can bring when put together just right. Those that know…know 911 is pure harmonic convergence of gr8 design and engineering. Hope u r enjoying ur T as much as I am…..
I am thank you for asking, I am glad you are doing good, and enjoying your car!
After 6 months of waiting from allocation to delivery, I just took my 992 T home from the dealer this past weekend. My new 992 Carrera T
It's taken me a couple of days to feel dialed in with the manual transmission (e.g., I wasn't used to having to pull the stick leftward for 1st and 2nd gear), but quickly feeling comfortable. It's been fun navigating through the PCM setup and I think I have everything set now. Any advice on break-in protocol or other tips would be welcomed!
I follow what a person does in germany, on the 911 R's and cup cars there.
I will note that PEC-Atlanta, PEC-LA, Stuttgart, Leipzig, do not follow any break in procedure. SO it is up to you, on if you choose to accept or decline this break in procedure. They only follow the ones hard limited in the car. like on the GT models.
Always let the engine oil temp get up to 180 before ever letting the rpms go over 4k rpm even after any break in you do.
(I mention this next point so you understand why we do this, and why I think I can speak on it.)
This is what my dad on all of 10 911 over his life has done. the 10 911s include a 996 RUF, 997 GT3RS, 996 CUP, 991 GT3, 992 GT3 and more.
Every 911 he has has over 10k miles on it.
The highest being his 2004 GT3 track car. It has never had a problem in its 46k miles.
40000 miles have been driven exclusively on the track. over 20 years.
His GT3RS 991 has 12k miles and 10k of them are track miles, and he did the same thing, no issues.
so I trusted the guy on renlist and 20 years of my dad track driving and breaking in new 911's.
So that is what I did as well too my 992 T.
My 992 T now has 26k miles and I have had not a single issue, doing this break in, I think helped it.
Under 300 miles, do not exceed 4000 RPM Under 425 miles, do not exceed 4500 RPM Under 550 miles, do not exceed 5000 RPM Under 675 miles, do not exceed 5500 RPM Under 800 miles, do not exceed 6000 RPM Under 925 miles, do not exceed 6500 RPM Under 1,050 miles, do not exceed 7000 RPM Under 1,175 miles, do not exceed 7500 RPM Under 1,300 miles, do not exceed 8000 RPM Under 1425 miles, do not exceed 8500 RPM
For people who don't like this way here is my explanation in a conversation I have had with many
I ask people; "So you want to break in your 911, and set the rings and gaskets in the engine, and set them for the various rpms you will be driving right?"
They say "yes"
I say "well if you never go above 4k rpms for 1400 miles how are you setting the rings and engine for the raried rpm?"
Insert shocked face here hahaha
Then I ask "How do you plan to set them in for all the various rpm if you never even get to that rpm for a week, months or almost a year of breaking in the car?
I then ask so you think it is fine to be under 4k rpm for 1400 miles then redline it right after 1400 miles?
I get different Reponses to it but none that have satisfactorily refuted my reasoning.
I follow what a person does in germany, on the 911 R's and cup cars there.
I will note that PEC-Atlanta, PEC-LA, Stuttgart, Leipzig, do not follow any break in procedure. SO it is up to you, on if you choose to accept or decline this break in procedure. They only follow the ones hard limited in the car. like on the GT models.
Always let the engine oil temp get up to 180 before ever letting the rpms go over 4k rpm even after any break in you do.
This is what my dad on all of 10 911 over his life has done. the 10 911s include a 996 RUF, 997 GT3RS, 996 CUP, 991 GT3, 992 GT3 and more.
Every 911 he has has over 10k miles on it.
The highest being his 2004 GT3 track car. It has never had a problem in its 46k miles.
40000 miles have been driven exclusively on the track. over 20 years.
His GT3RS 991 has 12k miles and 10k of them are track miles, and he did the same thing, no issues.
so I trusted the guy on renlist and 20 years of my dad track driving and breaking in new 911's. So that is what I did too my 992 T.
My 992 T now has 26k miles and I have had not a single issue, doing this break in, I think helped it.
Under 300 miles, do not exceed 4000 RPM Under 425 miles, do not exceed 4500 RPM Under 550 miles, do not exceed 5000 RPM Under 675 miles, do not exceed 5500 RPM Under 800 miles, do not exceed 6000 RPM Under 925 miles, do not exceed 6500 RPM Under 1,050 miles, do not exceed 7000 RPM Under 1,175 miles, do not exceed 7500 RPM Under 1,300 miles, do not exceed 8000 RPM Under 1425 miles, do not exceed 8500 RPM
For people who don't like this way here is my explanation in a conversation I have had with many
I ask people; "So you want to break in your 911, and set the rings and gaskets in the engine, and set them for the various rpms you will be driving right?"
They say "yes"
I say "well if you never go above 4k rpms for 1400 miles how are you setting the rings and engine for the raried rpm?"
Insert shocked face here hahaha
Then I ask "How do you plan to set them in for all the various rpm if you never even get to that rpm for a week, months or almost a year of breaking in the car?
I then ask so you think it is fine to be under 4k rpm for 1400 miles then redline it right after 1400 miles?
I get different Reponses to it but none that have satisfactorily refuted my reasoning.
Thanks. I agree that a graduated approach makes more sense than jumping from a max of 4K to a max of redline after some specified mileage like 1500, or whatever. After getting lots of advice, I've decided to keep it under 4K for the first 500 miles, then go to a max of 5K at 750 miles, 6K at 1000 miles, 7K at 1250 miles, and then up to redline after 1500 miles. I'm also going to do an oil change at 2K miles, just as an added measure.
08-27-2024 | 09:49 PM
