Break in period - real or myth?
#61
Rennlist Member
I drove most of the break-in in sport mode with light throttle (at least for the first few hundred miles. ) as it seems to run a bit higher rpm (mid 2k at cruise) and that seemed happier for the engine versus damn near at idle going down the road.
Last edited by Quikag; 04-24-2023 at 12:29 PM.
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remington (04-24-2023)
#62
Burning Brakes
I agree, normal mode should be called EPA mileage testing mode. I almost never use it, maybe cruising on the highway.
#63
ChatGPT’s answer…
Breaking in a new car, including a Porsche 911, is important to ensure its longevity and performance. Here are some general tips on how to break in your 911:
1. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations: Your Porsche 911's manual will have specific instructions on how to break in the engine, and it's important to follow them. This will ensure that the engine is properly conditioned and ready for long-term use.
2. Avoid hard acceleration and high RPMs: For the first 1,000 miles or so, it's best to avoid hard acceleration and keeping the RPMs too high. This will help the engine parts to wear in evenly and avoid any unnecessary stress on the engine.
3. Vary your driving: Try to vary your driving conditions during the break-in period, including highway and city driving, and avoid keeping the car at a constant speed for extended periods.
4. Allow for proper cooling: If you've been driving your 911 for an extended period, allow the engine to cool down before shutting it off. This will help prevent heat damage to the engine components.
5. Keep up with maintenance: Regular maintenance is important for any car, but especially during the break-in period. Follow the recommended maintenance schedule in your owner's manual to keep your Porsche 911 running smoothly for years to come.
Remember that the break-in period for your Porsche 911 is critical for its longevity and performance, so take it seriously and be patient. By following these tips and the manufacturer's recommendations, you can ensure that your car is properly conditioned and ready for many years of enjoyment.
Breaking in a new car, including a Porsche 911, is important to ensure its longevity and performance. Here are some general tips on how to break in your 911:
1. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations: Your Porsche 911's manual will have specific instructions on how to break in the engine, and it's important to follow them. This will ensure that the engine is properly conditioned and ready for long-term use.
2. Avoid hard acceleration and high RPMs: For the first 1,000 miles or so, it's best to avoid hard acceleration and keeping the RPMs too high. This will help the engine parts to wear in evenly and avoid any unnecessary stress on the engine.
3. Vary your driving: Try to vary your driving conditions during the break-in period, including highway and city driving, and avoid keeping the car at a constant speed for extended periods.
4. Allow for proper cooling: If you've been driving your 911 for an extended period, allow the engine to cool down before shutting it off. This will help prevent heat damage to the engine components.
5. Keep up with maintenance: Regular maintenance is important for any car, but especially during the break-in period. Follow the recommended maintenance schedule in your owner's manual to keep your Porsche 911 running smoothly for years to come.
Remember that the break-in period for your Porsche 911 is critical for its longevity and performance, so take it seriously and be patient. By following these tips and the manufacturer's recommendations, you can ensure that your car is properly conditioned and ready for many years of enjoyment.
#64
Um... while you are correct - the main reason for early oil changes and/or differential fluid changes is because of the wear/metal shavings that are a natural by product of a new engine/differential - and thus the entire thread Most high performance cars have early oil and diff changes.
Last edited by Fullyield; 04-24-2023 at 06:22 PM.
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AdamIsAdam (04-24-2023)
#65
Rennlist Member
Well, I directly answered your question and now you change the question. I change all gear oil or differential fluids in all my street cars and trucks at 30,000 miles for the reason you state..…which is much earlier than any manufacturer recommends BTW. And the very first change of differential fluid is more important than any other for the reasons stated. But the difference is that the differential does not circulate the metal “fine” and silicone, if any, the same way the 20 - 50 psi variable oil pumps in a modern engine do. Modern engine oil pumps churn the oil (and everything in it) throughout the engine relying on the oil filter to trap the debris and contaminants larger than a set micron. On the other hand, differentials by design do not have fluid filters and principally filter with gravity…..which has worked well for many, many years. Any track or race vehicle should accelerate all scheduled maintenance. Your opinion may differ and that’s OK cause it is your car for you to maintain as you see fit. Best wishes.
"engine oil is slowly contaminated by gas, water and carbon which turns the oil acidic and drops it below viscosity over time and mileage. Transmissions and differential fluids are not effected by gas, water and carbon so last longer."
the question was "Now if someone can tell me why the first oil change is at 10k and differential oil is not changed along with some sort of scientific reasoning, I would appreciate it."
I bolded the key terms.....
Now this is funny " But the difference is that the differential does not circulate the metal “fine” and silicone" Are you saying those shavings don't circulate around? They just fall to the bottom?
and my opinion? I'm not up to speed on all manufacturers, but I can tell you, skip the 1,200 mile diff fluid change on a BMW M car, and the car can never be certified.
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Chicago-GTS (04-22-2024)
#67
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(Above is sarcasm )
Last edited by AdamIsAdam; 04-24-2023 at 08:46 PM.
#69
You did not answer the question. You pointed out
"engine oil is slowly contaminated by gas, water and carbon which turns the oil acidic and drops it below viscosity over time and mileage. Transmissions and differential fluids are not effected by gas, water and carbon so last longer."
the question was "Now if someone can tell me why the first oil change is at 10k and differential oil is not changed along with some sort of scientific reasoning, I would appreciate it."
I bolded the key terms.....
Now this is funny " But the difference is that the differential does not circulate the metal “fine” and silicone" Are you saying those shavings don't circulate around? They just fall to the bottom?
and my opinion? I'm not up to speed on all manufacturers, but I can tell you, skip the 1,200 mile diff fluid change on a BMW M car, and the car can never be certified.
"engine oil is slowly contaminated by gas, water and carbon which turns the oil acidic and drops it below viscosity over time and mileage. Transmissions and differential fluids are not effected by gas, water and carbon so last longer."
the question was "Now if someone can tell me why the first oil change is at 10k and differential oil is not changed along with some sort of scientific reasoning, I would appreciate it."
I bolded the key terms.....
Now this is funny " But the difference is that the differential does not circulate the metal “fine” and silicone" Are you saying those shavings don't circulate around? They just fall to the bottom?
and my opinion? I'm not up to speed on all manufacturers, but I can tell you, skip the 1,200 mile diff fluid change on a BMW M car, and the car can never be certified.
Last edited by Fullyield; 04-25-2023 at 08:57 AM.
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#70
Why are people debating what is on page 16 of our manuals? If you want to ignore the advice because it "infringes" on your enjoyment, by all means, go ahead. I have about 800 miles and I know that there is what someone else described as the "fun zone" on the other side of 1800 miles. I'm not a lemming if I listen to the manufacturer's recommendation. This topic is a fascinating insight into human behavior....and privilege.
I couldn't agree more with the answer above. The Answer to the break-in / running-in question is clear-cut in the manual (both booklet and digital). If what people are trying to get at is an excuse to do whatever they want with validation by way of this forum then I'll happily oblige. I'm following some random "GT break in period" I found in here somewhere which make sense to me and I printed out and inserted into my driver's sun visor (I'm a 1980's child so that's how we roll).
7500rpm sounds and feels so gooooooooood! Give her what she wants, if you don’t, the next owner certainly will.
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#71
All my previous new performance cars that had manufacturer recommended break in procedures were purchased 350 kilometres away from my residence and the break in period was on a 3-4 hour non stop drive home, I always followed the break in advice during the drive home and didn’t notice any difference in the first few hours because of the highway driving.
My recent TTS was trailered to me and the first time I took it for an hour and ten minute drive I could smell a lot of hot metal, rubber etc.
The second one hour trip was the same and the VOC odours were intense, on the third one hour trip I took the odometer from 170 to 240km and the smell was gone and the drivetrain is already feeling different.
I have noticed a difference in how the drivetrain feels and even how the exhaust sounds with previous cars as they break in but the smell and odour thing is a first, I hope the odours really were the engine and exhaust breaking in and wasn’t something else burning off that shouldn’t have, the car has been perfect so I do think it was just normal burn off that you would only notice if you weren’t driving at higher speeds.
My recent TTS was trailered to me and the first time I took it for an hour and ten minute drive I could smell a lot of hot metal, rubber etc.
The second one hour trip was the same and the VOC odours were intense, on the third one hour trip I took the odometer from 170 to 240km and the smell was gone and the drivetrain is already feeling different.
I have noticed a difference in how the drivetrain feels and even how the exhaust sounds with previous cars as they break in but the smell and odour thing is a first, I hope the odours really were the engine and exhaust breaking in and wasn’t something else burning off that shouldn’t have, the car has been perfect so I do think it was just normal burn off that you would only notice if you weren’t driving at higher speeds.
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Chicago-GTS (04-22-2024)
#72
My new GTS, which was also trailered to me, stank on the first few drives and the rear end was so hot I could have fried and egg on the Aerokit. It also seemed to go through the first couple of full gas tanks faster than any vehicle I've ever owned. Now, at ~1500km, the smells are long gone, the back end doesn't get overly hot, and the fuel consumption is vastly improved (and surprisingly decent). Assuming that was part of the break in! I haven't beaten on it by any means, but I've definitely gone over 4k RPM a number of times while entering the highway or passing - kind of unavoidable!
#73
Instructor
It's also why you never see high-mileage rental cars or loaners. they sell them to some unsuspecting consumer that doesn't know how they were thrashed. Please remember that corporations like Porsche, Hertz, and Avis, have considered these depreciating assets on their balance sheets and depreciate the cars as a cost of sales. Would you buy a used 911 if you knew it came from a rental car agency or was used at the Porsche Experience Centers in LA or ATL?
I wouldn't.
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