Just make sure the yellow connector is free and clear and is not wedged or touching at all and slowly pull back the wheel to make sure nothing is snagging. The faceplate of the clockspring is held on with 3 flimsy tiny tabs. Now that you are aware of it you won’t have an issue. When I first pulled my steering wheel I didn’t know about it and wasn’t paying attention to the fact the plug wasn’t fully out.

 

Not as impressed as I was with the cargraphic. Controller, but definitely a nice upgrade. Love
the size of the larger paddles and the clicks add an element of excitement missing from the Toyota sienna paddles Porsche uses. I’m not blown away, but I’m happy I bought them, and the more I drive the more I appreciate them. Would recommend for purchase.

Edit: after living with the paddles for a bit, I am more impressed with the impact they have on the experience.

 

Is there any performance improvement in terms of responsiveness or is it just audibly more pleasing?

 

I don’t think there is an improvement in responsiveness. They 10000% sound and feel way better though. Feel better on the hand, easier to grab when turning. Adjustability is great.

 

You got this. You really are thinking too much about it. 👍

 

[QUOTE=dixonk;18786083]Just make sure the yellow connector is free and clear and is not wedged or touching at all and slowly pull back the wheel to make sure nothing is snagging. The faceplate of the clockspring is held on with 3 flimsy tiny tabs./QUOTE]
Question... "the faceplate of the clockspring" What does this look like? What does it control? If it gets broken or screwed up what are the symptoms?
Swapped mine out and appears to be fine EXCEPT getting persistent Airbag System Error. Could it be related?

 

Add me as well!!

 

Well following everyone's tips made this very simple. It went so fast that I forgot to replace the O-rings so I did the job twice. The most painful part was waiting the second 10 min before disconnecting the airbag

 

are the o-rings supposed to be used again? I meaured the nubbin on the stock with o-ring and new without oring. Using the oring made the new nubbin too large. Decided not to use the old oring and no issues

 

No idea. Seemed to work just fine without them but I figured they're there for either vibration/noise insulation. BTW also in disconnecting the battery - I disconnected the positive lead and the memory of the cable kept causing the clamp to make contact and spark. I think it pissed off the electronics of the car BC I had a slew of fault codes that were resistant to clearing by my hand held icarsoft scanner. Had to use the M Engineering M Suite programmer to clear the codes.

 

[QUOTE=Yojeffo;18786909]oh it’s just the plastic cover that holds the coiled ribbon cable inside. You would know if you messed your clockspring out because and oily greasy mess of ribbon cable would have popped out in your lap. I’m guessing airbag warning may be cable related. Have you driven around to see if it would clear or if you have a Mtune or anything clear the codes.

 

[QUOTE=dixonk;18787171]Whoa... No oily mess. I think the on and off of the neg battery terminal too many times may have been the problem. Ordered a icarsoft scanner so that may give me more info. IIt may only give me more questions to post HaHa. Thanks all for the help!!

 

[QUOTE=Yojeffo;18787228]LOL -- did the exact same thing...ordered Icarsoft POR V3.0 to determine CEL code, and clear the if it's a non-event.

 

The icarsoft wouldn't clear all of my codes - I had scores of them. Had to use the M Tuner

 

Ok before I unscrew the steering wheel bolt, is there anything else I need to do? I disconnected the top yellow connector and the red one near the bottom. Does the yellow connector actually need to be disconnected from the black cables that actually feed into each side of it?