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Use the M6 comfort ( led charge status ) cord ...standard non comfort cord is 3 inches too short to properly place / tuck snugly in wiper well where it is held down by good stiction
but then easily pulled forward an inch or so to connect to Ctek ..you never have to open or leave open frunk lid or lift off battery compartment cover to charge ..M8 eyelet fits ok around aux positive post but not ideal and too wide to fit in the "well" of where I put the neg eyelet's best located ground post ..
you need to buy an M6 size hex nut for the positive post and use of a 10 mm socket wrench
if anticipate driven in heavy rain daily , you can put it under battery cover or rubber band a plastic sandwich baggie around it if left in wiper well if you dont trust the snug fitting cap to be 100% waterproof
even when tucked in , i can easily see the flashing LED charge status when approaching driver's door ( see attached video at bottom of this post )
Thanks to all the information/advice posted here, I successfully hard wired CTEK lead to battery & ground post-easy peezy as advertised. One dumb question that I think I know the answer to but to be sure…..when I hooked the lead up, the led lights started flashing amber. Is there any risk of a battery drain from feeding those lights? Any way to turn the lights off. Thanks for any info.
Thanks to all the information/advice posted here, I successfully hard wired CTEK lead to battery & ground post-easy peezy as advertised. One dumb question that I think I know the answer to but to be sure…..when I hooked the lead up, the led lights started flashing amber. Is there any risk of a battery drain from feeding those lights? Any way to turn the lights off. Thanks for any info.
The draw from the light on the connector is pretty insignificant.
If the light is amber that means the battery is not fully charged usually under 12.4 V .
the light on the connector should be green .
is it an AGM battery?
Pretty sure it's AGM, I don't have RAS or anything else exotic. I actually didn't connect the charger yet, just the lead. It has lights on it. Maybe they time out if not connected to charger or maybe no big deal as noted.
The draw from the light on the connector is pretty insignificant.
If the light is amber that means the battery is not fully charged usually under 12.4 V .
the light on the connector should be green .
is it an AGM battery?
It shouldn’t be an issue, but those leds bugged me. Never helpful. I found the fused m8 non led connector which I prefer. Who knew this would be such a pain. I loved how my m3 had a dedicated + and - post in the engine bay.
Thanks, I’m going to subscribe to out of sight, out of mind and not worry about it. Wish they made a fused M6 without LED…….
Hooked charger up and all seems good! 3 lights are on and it looks like it's properly going through the charge cycle. I left the connector in the frunk like F8Driver and run the charger lead from the windshield area into the frunk. This allows me to close trunk and it’s very easy to connect/disconnect. Soooooooo much easier the 12v socket in footwell!!
Last edited by 1BTD; Apr 15, 2023 at 01:36 PM.
Reason: Addendum
Pretty sure it's AGM, I don't have RAS or anything else exotic. I actually didn't connect the charger yet, just the lead. It has lights on it. Maybe they time out if not connected to charger or maybe no big deal as noted.
The lights do not timeout. It’s a direct connection to the battery.
It shouldn’t be an issue, but those leds bugged me. Never helpful. I found the fused m8 non led connector which I prefer. Who knew this would be such a pain. I loved how my m3 had a dedicated + and - post in the engine bay.
Youre makiing this harder than it is.
The CTEK "Indicator" pigtail with M6 eyelets (that fit better and come with a fuse) is a lot longer than the M8 eyelets.
19.5"
Due to all the bad weather here in the Bay Area since I took delivery on January 1st of a 2023 GT3 Touring, I've been using a CTEK battery charger with good results.
I have the charger on the wall and use the Comfort Connect (8.2 feet extension cables) to a CTEK connector cable to the battery that uses eyelets. The kit comes with alligator clamps, but I chose to install the comfort connect cable with eyelits (which comes with a fuse). I am grounding to a bolt on the left strut tower with this cable. I also ordered the CTEK Comfort Eyelet in a smaller eyelit size (M6) to fit my posts better (1/4") but the CTEK (56-260) did not come with a fuse like the larger M8 Comfort Connect Eyelet (56-382) so I decided to go with the M8 eyelet cable that came with my CTEK charger.
"Bad weather": you mean, rain?
The car won't melt.
We get rain any month of the year here.
We're taking a road trip to Montreal next week. I fully expect to drive in the rain for at least some portion of the trip. It's inevitable this time of year, and I'm not going to wait for only perfectly sunny summer days.
No.
You want the 56-629 with the M6 eyelets.
It's actually 19.5 long.
The 56-382 comes with M8 eyelets.
Thanks, that is the one I ended up getting and it's hooked up and working fine. Just curious but does anyone know why Porsche recommends connecting ground to right strut vs left strut “extension” bolt which seems to be popular choice in this thread?
.... One dumb question that I think I know the answer to but to be sure…..when I hooked the lead up, the led lights started flashing amber. Is there any risk of a battery drain from feeding those lights? Any way to turn the lights off. Thanks for any info.
with my continuously-flashing LED " comfort " CTEK charging cord continuously attached as per my prior post , my OEM Lithium
battery drops by 0.01V per day over time when not driven ..exactly the same rate of decline when no CTEK cord was attached
Just wanted to say thanks for the tips in this thread, especially @F8Driver for the pics.
My 992’s AGM battery went dead the other day after not driving it for about a week. Couldn’t even unlock the car and had to get porsche assist out. So I got myself a ctek and wanted to wire it up with the eyelets.
My car is a uk spec RHD car so the wires with the eyelets (which are only about 30cm long) make it quite tight and I wanted to make the connector accessible when the bonnet is closed in case it ever goes completely dead again.
But I just about managed it by using the mount on the suspension like in the photos. I also tested it was a good grounding point with a meter as I’m paranoid - its painted underneath but the thread the bolt screws into is bare metal so the head of the bolt is in contact with the chassis via this.
(Aside: is it possible to get longer ctek eyelet wires without getting a whole 2.5m extension? I really want the wires to be about 50cm!)
Last edited by ricisbest; Apr 23, 2023 at 02:49 PM.
I also have a UK spec car and wanted the connector to come out by the drivers side wiper and the standard eyelets cable is too short but the indicator cable (with the LEDs) is just long enough although it requires care to ensure the internal wiper arm rods (to the left of the battery) do not catch the cable. If you're going out on the passenger side then it's not an issue.
However, if you can't get into the car the connector is not going to help you. Past experience has shown that you'll still need to get the frunk open using the fuse box jumper and jump the battery directly. What the ctek connector does provide is the ability to keep the battery topped up and avoid it going flat in the first place.
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