Cargraphic Valve Control Unit
#481
Race Car
Damn, I wish you had posted earlier.
I just spent $17.95 + shipping for the mount from Flat 6.
It attaches to the 10mm bolt on the oil fill neck. Before learning about this mount, I was just gonna be buying a mending bracket from Home Depot for $2.75
Flat 6 Motorsports - Cargraphic Non-Invasive Controller Mount (992)
I just spent $17.95 + shipping for the mount from Flat 6.
It attaches to the 10mm bolt on the oil fill neck. Before learning about this mount, I was just gonna be buying a mending bracket from Home Depot for $2.75
Flat 6 Motorsports - Cargraphic Non-Invasive Controller Mount (992)
#482
Race Car
Upon further review I believe you're right.
The instructions show it going over next to the ECU.
But.... I'm gonna see if I can route to the bolt on the oil filler neck as @VegasGT3 did.
Last edited by Diablo Dude; 06-07-2023 at 07:43 PM.
#483
I also received my order from Supremepower today, and without the ears.
I went down to the workbench and fixed it with a few simple things that you can pick up at any hardware store for a few bucks total:
(2) M4-0.7 x 40 mm screws (Example link: https://www.homedepot.com/p/M4-0-7-x...2928/204283771)
(2) M4-0.7 nylon insert nuts (Example link: https://www.homedepot.com/p/4-mm-0-7...3668/204274143)
(2) M4 flat washers (Example link: https://www.homedepot.com/p/M4-Zinc-...3528/204276428)
(1) 3"x3" Zinc-Plated T-Plate (Example link: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...5169/202033997)
Also need a drill/and drill bit to make a new hole on the T-plate to line up with Cargraphic.
Instructions for those who may find them useful:
Step 1: Remove the two Phillips head screws (they are also M4-0.7 thread pitch) on the right side of the unit
Step 2: Fasten the (2) M4-0.7 x 40 mm screws in its place, and threads will now stick through to the other side (this step screws the entire unit back together already, so no worry of integrity of the unit)
Step 3: Line up the T-plate to find out where you need to drill an additional hole, and drill the hole
Step 4: Line up the T-plate through both holes and use a utility knife to score and remove where the double sided tape over laps
Step 5: Install the T-plate onto the protruding threads from Step 2
Step 6: Add the (2) M4 flat washers and fasten the (2) M4-0.7 nylon insert nuts
Step 7: Hand tighten everything together one final time
Success.
I'll probably take my small angle grinder and shorten the bracket overhangs tomorrow for a cleaner look. I understand it seems silly to even need to do this for a Porsche mod AND for a part of such a price tag -- but no need to sweat the small things in life.
Arrived with no ears
Additional parts required on top, OE fasteners and Supremepower bracket on bottom.
Installed
Backside: showing how it nearly perfectly lines up with how it would have been with ears + Supremepower bracket
Frontside: showing how it nearly perfectly lines up with how it would have been with ears + Supremepower bracket
I went down to the workbench and fixed it with a few simple things that you can pick up at any hardware store for a few bucks total:
(2) M4-0.7 x 40 mm screws (Example link: https://www.homedepot.com/p/M4-0-7-x...2928/204283771)
(2) M4-0.7 nylon insert nuts (Example link: https://www.homedepot.com/p/4-mm-0-7...3668/204274143)
(2) M4 flat washers (Example link: https://www.homedepot.com/p/M4-Zinc-...3528/204276428)
(1) 3"x3" Zinc-Plated T-Plate (Example link: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...5169/202033997)
Also need a drill/and drill bit to make a new hole on the T-plate to line up with Cargraphic.
Instructions for those who may find them useful:
Step 1: Remove the two Phillips head screws (they are also M4-0.7 thread pitch) on the right side of the unit
Step 2: Fasten the (2) M4-0.7 x 40 mm screws in its place, and threads will now stick through to the other side (this step screws the entire unit back together already, so no worry of integrity of the unit)
Step 3: Line up the T-plate to find out where you need to drill an additional hole, and drill the hole
Step 4: Line up the T-plate through both holes and use a utility knife to score and remove where the double sided tape over laps
Step 5: Install the T-plate onto the protruding threads from Step 2
Step 6: Add the (2) M4 flat washers and fasten the (2) M4-0.7 nylon insert nuts
Step 7: Hand tighten everything together one final time
Success.
I'll probably take my small angle grinder and shorten the bracket overhangs tomorrow for a cleaner look. I understand it seems silly to even need to do this for a Porsche mod AND for a part of such a price tag -- but no need to sweat the small things in life.
Arrived with no ears
Additional parts required on top, OE fasteners and Supremepower bracket on bottom.
Installed
Backside: showing how it nearly perfectly lines up with how it would have been with ears + Supremepower bracket
Frontside: showing how it nearly perfectly lines up with how it would have been with ears + Supremepower bracket
Last edited by InTheClouds; 06-07-2023 at 10:13 PM. Reason: added links for people
The following 5 users liked this post by InTheClouds:
Diablo Dude (06-08-2023),
Fullyield (06-08-2023),
SA_992SMT (06-08-2023),
shrimp money (06-07-2023),
Vicbastige (06-07-2023)
#484
Rennlist Member
I got my earless setup installed after work today. No lift... But it's tight under there! Very straight forward though.
The sound is dramatically different. You not only hear it.... You can feel it. I love the louder turbo spooling whine.
The sound is dramatically different. You not only hear it.... You can feel it. I love the louder turbo spooling whine.
The following users liked this post:
Diablo Dude (06-08-2023)
The following 3 users liked this post by SamD:
#486
Rennlist Member
Well, I got the junction box itself set up the same way shrimp money did his (thanks, shrimp money—very easy!). However, I'm running into an issue on the second half of the install lol.
I'm having some problems unplugging the existing valve controller connectors while on the underside of the car. The Flat 6 instruction video makes it look so easy, but in practice I'm finding it quite difficult to disconnect the existing connectors with my hands, given all the surrounding parts. I have medium size hands, so not exactly wielding two Christmas hams here.
Note that I'm not using a lift, which is contributing to the tightness.
Any tips from those of you who have done it before?
I'm having some problems unplugging the existing valve controller connectors while on the underside of the car. The Flat 6 instruction video makes it look so easy, but in practice I'm finding it quite difficult to disconnect the existing connectors with my hands, given all the surrounding parts. I have medium size hands, so not exactly wielding two Christmas hams here.
Note that I'm not using a lift, which is contributing to the tightness.
Any tips from those of you who have done it before?
#487
I also received my order from Supremepower today, and without the ears.
I went down to the workbench and fixed it with a few simple things that you can pick up at any hardware store for a few bucks total:
(2) M4-0.7 x 40 mm screws (Example link: https://www.homedepot.com/p/M4-0-7-x...2928/204283771)
(2) M4-0.7 nylon insert nuts (Example link: https://www.homedepot.com/p/4-mm-0-7...3668/204274143)
(2) M4 flat washers (Example link: https://www.homedepot.com/p/M4-Zinc-...3528/204276428)
(1) 3"x3" Zinc-Plated T-Plate (Example link: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...5169/202033997)
Also need a drill/and drill bit to make a new hole on the T-plate to line up with Cargraphic.
Instructions for those who may find them useful:
Step 1: Remove the two Phillips head screws (they are also M4-0.7 thread pitch) on the right side of the unit
Step 2: Fasten the (2) M4-0.7 x 40 mm screws in its place, and threads will now stick through to the other side (this step screws the entire unit back together already, so no worry of integrity of the unit)
Step 3: Line up the T-plate to find out where you need to drill an additional hole, and drill the hole
Step 4: Line up the T-plate through both holes and use a utility knife to score and remove where the double sided tape over laps
Step 5: Install the T-plate onto the protruding threads from Step 2
Step 6: Add the (2) M4 flat washers and fasten the (2) M4-0.7 nylon insert nuts
Step 7: Hand tighten everything together one final time
Success.
I'll probably take my small angle grinder and shorten the bracket overhangs tomorrow for a cleaner look. I understand it seems silly to even need to do this for a Porsche mod AND for a part of such a price tag -- but no need to sweat the small things in life.
Arrived with no ears
Additional parts required on top, OE fasteners and Supremepower bracket on bottom.
Installed
Backside: showing how it nearly perfectly lines up with how it would have been with ears + Supremepower bracket
Frontside: showing how it nearly perfectly lines up with how it would have been with ears + Supremepower bracket
I went down to the workbench and fixed it with a few simple things that you can pick up at any hardware store for a few bucks total:
(2) M4-0.7 x 40 mm screws (Example link: https://www.homedepot.com/p/M4-0-7-x...2928/204283771)
(2) M4-0.7 nylon insert nuts (Example link: https://www.homedepot.com/p/4-mm-0-7...3668/204274143)
(2) M4 flat washers (Example link: https://www.homedepot.com/p/M4-Zinc-...3528/204276428)
(1) 3"x3" Zinc-Plated T-Plate (Example link: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...5169/202033997)
Also need a drill/and drill bit to make a new hole on the T-plate to line up with Cargraphic.
Instructions for those who may find them useful:
Step 1: Remove the two Phillips head screws (they are also M4-0.7 thread pitch) on the right side of the unit
Step 2: Fasten the (2) M4-0.7 x 40 mm screws in its place, and threads will now stick through to the other side (this step screws the entire unit back together already, so no worry of integrity of the unit)
Step 3: Line up the T-plate to find out where you need to drill an additional hole, and drill the hole
Step 4: Line up the T-plate through both holes and use a utility knife to score and remove where the double sided tape over laps
Step 5: Install the T-plate onto the protruding threads from Step 2
Step 6: Add the (2) M4 flat washers and fasten the (2) M4-0.7 nylon insert nuts
Step 7: Hand tighten everything together one final time
Success.
I'll probably take my small angle grinder and shorten the bracket overhangs tomorrow for a cleaner look. I understand it seems silly to even need to do this for a Porsche mod AND for a part of such a price tag -- but no need to sweat the small things in life.
Arrived with no ears
Additional parts required on top, OE fasteners and Supremepower bracket on bottom.
Installed
Backside: showing how it nearly perfectly lines up with how it would have been with ears + Supremepower bracket
Frontside: showing how it nearly perfectly lines up with how it would have been with ears + Supremepower bracket
The following users liked this post:
kgs365 (06-09-2023)
#488
Race Car
Well, I got the junction box itself set up the same way shrimp money did his (thanks, shrimp money—very easy!). However, I'm running into an issue on the second half of the install lol.
I'm having some problems unplugging the existing valve controller connectors while on the underside of the car. The Flat 6 instruction video makes it look so easy, but in practice I'm finding it quite difficult to disconnect the existing connectors with my hands, given all the surrounding parts. I have medium size hands, so not exactly wielding two Christmas hams here.
Note that I'm not using a lift, which is contributing to the tightness.
Any tips from those of you who have done it before?
I'm having some problems unplugging the existing valve controller connectors while on the underside of the car. The Flat 6 instruction video makes it look so easy, but in practice I'm finding it quite difficult to disconnect the existing connectors with my hands, given all the surrounding parts. I have medium size hands, so not exactly wielding two Christmas hams here.
Note that I'm not using a lift, which is contributing to the tightness.
Any tips from those of you who have done it before?
I just did an install on a friends car 20mins ago. I highly suggest getting a long pick tool set. Should be $10. That makes it easy to pull out the gray locking tab on each valve plug.
edit, I had him back the car up on two boards to give an extra 1.5” lift and it was plenty for my fat head.
#489
Good point. It is zinc plated, not galvanized (so even worse than galv with respect to rust prevention). But i’ll take my chances with it though. Any moisture that may get on it should be quickly evaporated by being in the hot engine bay and all.
#490
Well, I got the junction box itself set up the same way shrimp money did his (thanks, shrimp money—very easy!). However, I'm running into an issue on the second half of the install lol.
I'm having some problems unplugging the existing valve controller connectors while on the underside of the car. The Flat 6 instruction video makes it look so easy, but in practice I'm finding it quite difficult to disconnect the existing connectors with my hands, given all the surrounding parts. I have medium size hands, so not exactly wielding two Christmas hams here.
Note that I'm not using a lift, which is contributing to the tightness.
Any tips from those of you who have done it before?
I'm having some problems unplugging the existing valve controller connectors while on the underside of the car. The Flat 6 instruction video makes it look so easy, but in practice I'm finding it quite difficult to disconnect the existing connectors with my hands, given all the surrounding parts. I have medium size hands, so not exactly wielding two Christmas hams here.
Note that I'm not using a lift, which is contributing to the tightness.
Any tips from those of you who have done it before?
Last edited by Fullyield; 06-08-2023 at 02:33 PM.
The following 3 users liked this post by Fullyield:
#491
Corrosion during driving is your least concern...but the rest of the time when the car is parked. I once installed a rear diffuser using that material (only brackets I had on hand and car needed to be put together for a run) - looked terrible after just a few weeks here in FL.
#492
Rennlist Member
I received mine today. No ears. I just used the double side tape to the alternator. The zip tie wasn't long enough. I used rhino ramps and it took about 20 minutes. I may redo it and check the zip ties and what not. Ideally I'd like to convert to a bolt on device. I used a very skinny tiny flathead screwdriver from a Kobalt set to manipulate the pass side grey clip, that took longer than everything else.
EDIT: Also, how crucial is the routing? (I am a heart surgeon, I get very concerned about the lie of my bypass grafts, tubes and wires before I close the chest) but I tried to make sure they were fairly taut and the heat shield wires were lined up with heat shields/cats/etc. But on the top side I kind of just folded the excess passenger side under the spoiler actuator and loosely zip tied it to some other wiring so its out of the way of the oil filter. I'd love some input on that.
EDIT: Also, how crucial is the routing? (I am a heart surgeon, I get very concerned about the lie of my bypass grafts, tubes and wires before I close the chest) but I tried to make sure they were fairly taut and the heat shield wires were lined up with heat shields/cats/etc. But on the top side I kind of just folded the excess passenger side under the spoiler actuator and loosely zip tied it to some other wiring so its out of the way of the oil filter. I'd love some input on that.
Last edited by protamine; 06-08-2023 at 09:04 PM.
#493
I received mine today. No ears. I just used the double side tape to the alternator. The zip tie wasn't long enough. I used rhino ramps and it took about 20 minutes. I may redo it and check the zip ties and what not. Ideally I'd like to convert to a bolt on device. I used a very skinny tiny flathead screwdriver from a Kobalt set to manipulate the pass side grey clip, that took longer than everything else.
Best wishes.
Last edited by Fullyield; 06-08-2023 at 09:17 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Fullyield:
protamine (06-08-2023),
shrimp money (06-08-2023)
#494
Race Car
@protamine As long as the cables aren't laying on top of anything moving or an exhaust part, you're fine. They're pretty well shielded/insulated.
The following users liked this post:
Fullyield (06-08-2023)
#495
On a different note: why not just bolting the supplied black bracket to one of the corners? One screw should hold it just fine. Why adding a second bracket?