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Seat wear at 3,500 miles

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Old 10-06-2022, 12:10 PM
  #16  
doug_999
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Originally Posted by Yojeffo
Need a routine getting in and out especially if you keep it long term. Does't look like a weight issue... more of abrasion problem. Could be cheap jeans? HaHa
I saw your post yesterday and was like.. how the heck was/is it my jeans? But you were half correct - it was my jeans, but they are not cheap! People make fun of me because I have them tailored.

Originally Posted by Keadog
Porsches wearing prematurely on the outside seat bolsters goes way back. I bought my '87 used and it was already in bad shape, while the rest of the car was almost showroom condition. Also a well known issue in 993s.
I'm sure I look funny getting in and out of the car, but zero wear at 3300 miles. I sit in the seat first and swing legs over the bolster. Reverse to get out.
You are correct sir. Need a new way of getting out.

Originally Posted by jlegelis
Super common issue on well-bolstered seats. One just needs to be more mindful about not hitting that part during entry/exit. Also, do you have 'comfort access' enabled to retract the seat and wheel, which gives you more 'room to move'?
Also, your dealer should have a 'leather guy' which they also use to do touch ups on their CPO cars, etc.

I did turn that off day#2 - with stick it was a pain in the butt (loooonnngg reach to clutch in and turn on car).


All - did check this morning - it is me getting out all at once - my jeans rub right there when I turn to get out. As noted, there is a new/different way I will take from now on. Reminds me of closing the frunk - you must be delicate with the 991....
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Old 10-06-2022, 01:56 PM
  #17  
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>> I did turn that off day#2 - with stick it was a pain in the butt (loooonnngg reach to clutch in and turn on car).
In my PDK car, the seat returns to the 'driving' position when the switch is turned to the first position, which should put in in a good situation to reach the clutch to start the car as you move the switch to the second position. YMMV.
Old 10-06-2022, 02:23 PM
  #18  
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Seat wear at 40,000 miles.Zero.
I have been and out a zillion times.
These are the cheap seats!
I love em.

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Old 10-06-2022, 03:28 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by jlegelis
>> I did turn that off day#2 - with stick it was a pain in the butt (loooonnngg reach to clutch in and turn on car).
In my PDK car, the seat returns to the 'driving' position when the switch is turned to the first position, which should put in in a good situation to reach the clutch to start the car as you move the switch to the second position. YMMV.
I don't have that kind of time in the morning
Old 10-06-2022, 03:40 PM
  #20  
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@doug_999 I would seriously look into the seat bolster protectors that Exclusive Options provided for the LWB on the 991 GT3/RS.

Short of losing weight and/or taking up yoga, that may be your best option.

They don't make anything as of yet for the 992, but your inquiry may prompt that to change.
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Old 10-06-2022, 06:56 PM
  #21  
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The leather in all automotive interiors, regardless of the brand, is pigmented or finished. It's not a "Natural" leather no matter how much marketing broo-hah is thrown at you by the car company. Finished or Pigmented leather means it has a painted top coat, and you have worn the paint off. Nothing more exotic than than. When you wear the paint off anything what do you do? You re-paint it of course. If you're a pro, you will use an airbrush, if you are a garage hack, an artist paint brush. Both will work Now the trick is finding the color. I'm a pro, so I do use an airbrush and get my paint from the craft store, $ 1,99 a bottle, water based acrylic. I'll buy a few shades and do some color experimentation and eventually get it just right. Lightly sand that area, tape it off with painters tape, and airbrush four or five coats on it. Once dry, I will put three to four coats of leather conditioner on it and it's good to go.

If you're not comfortable doing it yourself, there are mobile leather repair services in every decent sized city that will come to you and do that for around $ 150 to $ 190. Almost every major high-end car dealer has these guys come to their lot once a week to do the used cars. You can call around and ask those dealers when that day is and meet the guy in the lot, pay him cash and in 45 minutes he's done. Doesn't have to a Porsche dealer either. Japanese car leather really loses its topcoat, so sometime the Lexus dealer or Infinity store is better at regular stops by the leather paint guys.

I'm 5' 11" and 265 lbs so I do a number on my bolsters as well. I clean and condition them monthly which extends the lifespan on the problem areas significantly. The more supple you can make the leather, the less it wears. But, mine will get bad sooner or later and I just re-shoot them as above. BTW, Airbushes are fun to own. You can buy a cordless one off Amazon for $ 75 that will do the job easily, and you can use them for a number of odd jobs including touching up bumper scrapes and the like.

Last edited by drcollie; 10-06-2022 at 07:00 PM.
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Old 10-06-2022, 07:32 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Marcha
Abrasion wear caused by a leather belt or belt loops and edges of pockets on denim jeans.
Interesting you mention a belt. Sometimes I take it off before getting into my seat, especially on longer trips; for comfort and potential abrasion. I watched a Nick Murray video a few years ago about developing a routine to get in and out of the 911 to avoid seat wear. I’ve done it every time and it’s been very helpful.
Old 10-10-2022, 12:14 PM
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Whatever you do, keep it painted. The paint protects the leather underneath and if you leave it bare and continue to use, you begin wearing the leather down. Perhaps there is an adhesion issue that a special primer might fix.
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Old 10-10-2022, 12:16 PM
  #24  
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Also, I would also say that the paint on my driver's seat edge is not this bad on my 2011 Boxster with 78k miles. Maybe they used a different paint or process then. Mine is beige so maybe some colors are better than others.
Old 10-11-2022, 03:06 PM
  #25  
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No matter how it happened I'd be pissed if my seats wore like the photos above!!
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Old 10-12-2022, 10:50 AM
  #26  
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Assuming the leather finish is in good condition, isn't ceramic coating a good option for additional protection?
Old 10-12-2022, 11:41 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by kim9701
Assuming the leather finish is in good condition, isn't ceramic coating a good option for additional protection?
No, don't coat your leather with that stuff, Leather wants to be kept CLEAN and Conditioned. That's soap & water and hand lotion basically. Leather has been around for thousands of years, it's a natural product that bio-degrades easily. And the care for leather has never changed over time. Keep it clean, keep it moisturized. That's it. And that is always a 2-step process, you have to clean it first, then apply your conditioner. Don't use a 1-step product because them all you are doing it putting conditioner over dirt.

There is always a company that is pushing a "Sealant" for leather and there are always people that buy it because they don't want to be bothered with a proper care regimen. Some of these protective sealants can - and do - break down the tanning agents in the hide and cause leather failure. I see it all the time in my leather home furnishings business (www,keepingroom.com). Then the customer demands a warranty repair for hide failure. We send the damaged leather to a lab for testing and 99% of the time the lab comes back with a report there was an sealant applied or other protective chemical. Warranty is then denied and we give the customer a copy of the lab report. . In all the hundreds of "warranty" claims we have had in 30 years, only two were defective hides. Everything else was failure to maintain or the client used unapproved leather products on their pieces.

So be careful what you put on your leather. You can never go wrong with plain soap (or vinegar) and water, plus a decent conditioner. It doesn't have to be any more fancy than that.

Last edited by drcollie; 10-12-2022 at 11:45 AM.
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Old 10-12-2022, 12:11 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by drcollie
No, don't coat your leather with that stuff, Leather wants to be kept CLEAN and Conditioned. That's soap & water and hand lotion basically. Leather has been around for thousands of years, it's a natural product that bio-degrades easily. And the care for leather has never changed over time. Keep it clean, keep it moisturized. That's it. And that is always a 2-step process, you have to clean it first, then apply your conditioner. Don't use a 1-step product because them all you are doing it putting conditioner over dirt.

There is always a company that is pushing a "Sealant" for leather and there are always people that buy it because they don't want to be bothered with a proper care regimen. Some of these protective sealants can - and do - break down the tanning agents in the hide and cause leather failure. I see it all the time in my leather home furnishings business (www,keepingroom.com). Then the customer demands a warranty repair for hide failure. We send the damaged leather to a lab for testing and 99% of the time the lab comes back with a report there was an sealant applied or other protective chemical. Warranty is then denied and we give the customer a copy of the lab report. . In all the hundreds of "warranty" claims we have had in 30 years, only two were defective hides. Everything else was failure to maintain or the client used unapproved leather products on their pieces.

So be careful what you put on your leather. You can never go wrong with plain soap (or vinegar) and water, plus a decent conditioner. It doesn't have to be any more fancy than that.
Do you have a recommendation for a conditioning product that keeps the matte finish of the leather?
Old 10-12-2022, 12:41 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by dixonk
Do you have a recommendation for a conditioning product that keeps the matte finish of the leather?
This is what I sell in my store (would be the Protected Kit for all auto interiors), and what I use at my home and in my three Porsches.

https://keepingroom.com/leather-care
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Old 10-12-2022, 02:54 PM
  #30  
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For what it’s worth (I know some Renlisters hate him), Nick Murray has a YouTube video on this very subject and the best way to avoid.


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