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airbags are in the a-pillar and b-pillar. if you keep the wires routing along the above schematic, then it's no where near the airbags. basically, the above wiring is just along the edge of the headliner/weather stripping.
I’m coming into this post late but I’m looking for some help in wiring a dashcam directly to the driver’s side fuse box. Hardwiring through an Escort direct wire Smart Card mounted on the dash. I used the same set up on my 2018 991.2
Attached is a pic of the fuse box on a 2022 Targa GTS. Rows A and C take micro fuses and row B mini fuses. I need to use an ignition-controlled fuse location.
Appreciate sharing your knowledge. Ignition switched fuse slot?
I’m coming into this post late but I’m looking for some help in wiring a dashcam directly to the driver’s side fuse box. Hardwiring through an Escort direct wire Smart Card mounted on the dash. I used the same set up on my 2018 991.2
Attached is a pic of the fuse box on a 2022 Targa GTS. Rows A and C take micro fuses and row B mini fuses. I need to use an ignition-controlled fuse location.
Appreciate sharing your knowledge. Ignition switched fuse slot?
didn't one of the posters above use the driver's side fuses in C bank for switched? I think C bank is all switched (and i think thats the case on both the driver and passenger fuse banks), but in all honesty, get a multimeter and make sure. Wouldn't want to mess with the unknown. If you dont have one, a decent one can be had for under $50, and they're handy to have around the house for other purposes as well.
just wanted to give an alternative routing for the rear camera wire routing.
found this on the bmw forums. instead of routing the rear cable through the headliner, just use a trim tool to squeeze the wire in between A-pillar and headliner gaps, weather stripping, and B-pillar trim gaps. Makes for an easy route to the rear. see the picture below.
also, if you're willing to do a mirror tap, then you don't even need to run the wire to the footwell fuse box.
I put my Escort Radar into the mirror tap. Not sure I can also put the BlackVue into there. So I was just going to bring the dashcam wiring down to the driver's side.
didn't one of the posters above use the driver's side fuses in C bank for switched? I think C bank is all switched (and i think thats the case on both the driver and passenger fuse banks), but in all honesty, get a multimeter and make sure. Wouldn't want to mess with the unknown. If you dont have one, a decent one can be had for under $50, and they're handy to have around the house for other purposes as well.
I did use a multimeter and tried every fuse looking for a switched one. Don't know where I went wrong BUT the entire center display and all the switches including the one that closes the top are totally out. No power to anything on the console. Checked all the fuses in driver and passenger fuse boxes and they are fine. Feelin' damn stupid. Oh yeah.... 250 miles on the car.
HELP
Picking up on an old thread: Please, can someone confirm
- Bank C in the driver side (left hand drive) foot well fuse box is all ACC (micro fuses)
- How to remove the fuse cover panel (the carpeted panel, not the lid), just clips to pry out or any hidden screws?
- can someone explain why the fuse diagram in manual and actual fuses populated does not agree? (example: Block C fuse 1 is used, yet according to fuse diagram is not used...)
I like to find an empty ACC fuse slot I can put an additional fuse on.
Thanks achilleas for your post! I ended up bringing the power cable to passenger side as well. in your picture below, 2 nuts with 3 brown wires each looks like ground as well. Is that true? Can someone confirm please?
Originally Posted by achilleas101
Figure I'll add to this thread what i did and keep it all in one place
The hard part was the ground, but this is what i figured out. There are 2 bolts behind the footwell insulation but they have some plastic blocking the metal chassis. So i used an offset terminal lug and locked in a 14 gauge solid copper wire to it. Had to flip the little retaining piece upside down in order to secure it right
I soldered the other end to the ground wire of the camera, put the lug over the bolt and secured it with a nut sized 1/4-20 coarse. Now, the bolt has paint on it, so i used and tap and die kit to clean it up a bit. The thinking here was that the nut makes contact to the bolt, and the nut contacts the copper lug, which contacts the ground wire. Using a multimeter the wire seems to make enough of a ground contact, and the camera seems to be working.
Thanks achilleas for your post! I ended up bringing the power cable to passenger side as well. in your picture below, 2 nuts with 3 brown wires each looks like ground as well. Is that true? Can someone confirm please?
sorry for the delayed reply, just saw this. yes, those are grounds. I don't like messing with existing ground connections though in case I flub things up. Had a situation many years ago where on a very cheap car I accidentally shorted something when i disconnected and reconnected a ground wire. And even if i didn't mess something up, if the car develops some electronic gremlin, i don't want Porsche trying to blame something I touched. So better to just use a new one.
was there a need to pull the A or B pillar trim completely to route the wires or just simply use pry tool to tuck/squeeze the wires?
Thanks
i just tucked it. biggest challenge was when running it down the door side, getting it tucked enough there along the dash. If i knew where to pull the pillar cover without snapping some connector, I'd prefer to do that, but I haven't found any diagram of how to do that.
03-22-2022, 11:55 AM
Dashcam Fuse Box Mystery
