Originally Posted by LifesAnesthesia

Ok, so question for everyone. I brought my car into the dealership for a rattle. It's now been a week with very spotty communication and no real answers as to what's going on with my 992. Should I be worried? Should I escalate this problem to general manager at the dealership?

Originally Posted by Drizz

you should have had your car back within a day. At the very least I would ask to speak to the service manager and have him give you an update as to what’s going on. No reason at this point to be anything but completely polite. If the answer from them is anything other than them telling you you’ll have your car back within 24 hours I would kindly ask if there’s anything they could do to please get the car through their queue and back to you.

Originally Posted by Bluehighways

Vapor Shield? I'd call B.S. on that! There isn't any such thing on our 911's There are only two openings behind the Door Card that provide access to the interior of the Metal Door. These two openings each have rather robust thick plastic shields that have integral 360* double lip seals. These are one piece items that are easily as thick as a plastic kitchen cooking spatula. Nothing at all like the traditional Saran Wrap type vapor shields of the past. One has to use a trim tool to dislodge them and reinstalling them is no quickie cake walk either. Whoever designed them meant serious business. That and every wire and control cable that passes through the door skin has its own dedicated rubber seal.

Originally Posted by LifesAnesthesia

So...should I question them further about the issue?

Originally Posted by Night Blue Fred

Dealer replaced the blown speakers.

Originally Posted by Bluehighways

I was able to isolate and correct the harmonic noise in the Passenger Side Door Card that I was experiencing. My assumption is/was that the ultrasonic welds that Porsche (or their supplier) is using to assemble the Door Cards may be fracturing or a stack up of components secured by one or more of the welds are moving relative to each other and thus creating the noise. This would explain why external pressure on the trim strip stops the noise. What’s kind of interesting is this is not adversely impacting any mechanical functions of the door. Nothing seems to be physically loose in the Door Card Assembly when handled after it has been removed from the car. Also important; remove the door Card from the car and the noise stops completely. In any case the Door Card does generate a harmonic noise that pressing on the door trim stops. So anyhow, I did two things: First, I placed a very thin (~157 mils) 1/2" wide strip of self-adhesive closed cell foam across the strip of the aforementioned rivets. (See the attached diagram.) The other thing I did, and I'm sorry that I failed to take a picture of it. If one removes the Door Pull Module from the Door Card (#20 Torx) with the Door Card removed from the car, one of the #20 Torx retaining screws is threaded into an Ultrasonic Rivet similar to the ones used to attach the Door Card Trim. This Threaded Ultrasonic Rivet is apparently also used in the assembly process for the alignment of various parts of the Door Card Assembly. This is done by using a Ring that is a part of one piece of the Door Card Assembly. This Ring encircles the Ultrasonic Treaded Rivet. By gently manipulating this Ring, I discovered that mine was catching on the sides of the Ultrasonic Threaded Rivet it surrounds. This movement can take place even with the Door Pull Module completely installed on the Door Card. Anyhow, it made a noise quite similar to what I was hearing. I used a bit of 400 Grit Sand Paper to gently (and I stress gently) smooth the internal edges of the Ring and also the external portions of the post that makes up this particular Ultrasonic Threaded Rivet. The amount of sanding required is extremely slight. The edges (plastic flashing from the casting process) that catch on each other probably do not exceed 0.001" (if that). The only goal here is to allow for slight vertical movement between the two without one catching on the other.

This was sort of a shotgun diagnostic approach. Either one (or both) of the above may have "fixed" the noise without the other. However, I am not so motivated as to actually go in and remove the closed cell foam to see if the noise returns.
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