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Update on 911T vs Cayman GTS40: 911 is bigger. And has a LOT more nooks and crannies to clean! Thank goodness for PPF and ceramic. But man, is it bigger!
Now has been a week with my car, not been able to drive it as much as I would have liked but enough to know I am happy with the car. Sadly I have neglected to take any more pictures, I am just not really a picture taker most of the pics I have posted here in the past were taken by others and sent to me lol!
I wanted to ask some more about the discussed HOLD function. It is the only part of the car I have really found tricky. I am still building confidence and getting used to the MT in traffic and hill situations after 15 years of auto only so maybe I am focusing too much on clutch control, but I cant seem to get brake hold to function as described in the owners manual in the times I would rely on it most.
what it says:
"HOLD in conjunction with manual transmission
Engine is running.
Hold the vehicle securely on gradient using the footbrake.
Depress clutch pedal fully.
Select an appropriate gear for the intended driving direction and gradient (1st gear or reverse).
Release the footbrake while still holding the clutch pedal down. The vehicle is held on the gradient to enable driving off and prevent the vehicle from rolling back.
Drive off in the usual way
In vehicles with manual transmission, the HOLD function is not activated under the following circumstances
If the clutch is not pressed.
In N operating mode.
Vehicle not at a standstill.
Engine switched off manually.
On gradients of less than 5%
If the driver's door is opened and the driver's seat belt is not fastened."
Then there is some language about hold function in PDK cars, and below that is this
"The HOLD function can be activated, irrespective of the gradient, by quickly flooring the pressed brake pedal while the vehicle is stationary. This keeps the vehicle at a standstill without the brake pedal having to be pressed continuously. A drive position change to the lever position does not deactivate the HOLD function.
Engine is running.
Hold the vehicle securely on gradient using the footbrake.
Depress clutch pedal fully.
Select an appropriate gear for the intended driving direction and gradient (1st gear or reverse).
Release the footbrake while still holding the clutch pedal down. The vehicle is held on the gradient to enable driving off and prevent the vehicle from rolling back.
Drive off in the usual way"
I have experienced the automatic hold activation on hills though I think the main hill going to my town center intersection must be less than 5% at the top because I don't find it very consistent there. The second section is the part I am finding tricky. Reading it back, I cannot tell if it applies only to PDK cars or not, since it mentions a drive selector but also depressing the clutch pedal in the steps below that. The steps are copied exactly from the first section and mentions gradients even though it says above to activate irrespective of gradient, so I am wondering if maybe it is a misprint and I am stabbing at the brakes while stopped in traffic expecting hold to activate and not getting it. I asked my SA and he said the window to activate it is very specific and it is possible to press the brake both too early and too late, which may explain my issue but I wanted to see what others have found.
I have also read in other threads on here that the parking brake will auto deactivate when you drive away, but I tried it once in my driveway and it didn't seem to work and I actually stalled, so now I am a little afraid to try it again. I'm sure it's better practice to release the parking brake by hand anyways but I also wanted to ask if anyone knows more about this? In the manual it only mentions automatic release of the parking brake in D R or N which of course only applies to PDK, but I believe I have seen posts specifying that this works in the manual transmission too. This is my first time ever experiencing a manual car with an electronic parking brake so having to push the brake pedal to release it by hand is something I honestly did not expect at first!
This weekend I have set aside plenty of time to go for some long drives where I can avoid traffic, but I may stop in a parking lot and try experimenting with some of these since I need more practice stopping and going anyways and would rather not do it in actual traffic. I think most of my nerves come from this being the nicest/most expensive car I have owned so I feel it's worth re learning the basics.
Hope everyone else is enjoying their cars, or if you are still waiting I hope these delays start to subside. Besides the points I have mentioned above I am loving everything about this car. I'm sure a PDK would have enabled me to drive it more right away but I am determined to master the manual even if it takes longer than I expected.
I hear what you are saying about the HOLD function and hope I can help explain...
When you are coming to a stop on any kind of hill, in order for the hold function to engage, the car must be at a complete stop before you release the brake, the clutch must be pressed in and the gear must be selected... I know I ran into situations where the car was fully stopped, and clutch pressed but I was in neutral and that wouldnt activate it... Once you figure out the combo, the car always "holds" itself and stops you from rolling back... its a great feature and it does work. I'm guessing in your situation you might have either still been rolling a bit? or maybe you had clutch in but not the gear selected?
Keep at it... I promise it works haha,
My audio guy makes custom harnesses and sells them to audio shops globally. He’s using one on my T. Let me know if any of ur install guys need it.
Also, audio shops may disagree but mine says 150 total watts insufficient and recommends upgrading amp also since amps aren’t that expensive. He’s going to test the stock amp when he takes my T apart. U may want ur audio shop to do the same?
@ECNJ , this makes good sense. Do you know the make and model of our base audio system? I read in this thread that it is Blaupunkt .
Would be good to verify exact spec, is it 150W per channel, assuming it has 4 channels, or is it total output, which would be pedestrian.
Fair question - I've sent that question to Focal. Will keep you posted.
Focal is an awesome kit, but if base audio is 150W total output, we are overcapitalising on speakers, unless they come with an Amp.
I am not in favour of an external Amp, as if the electrician makes installation mistake, it can generate error codes on various computer modules. 992 has a sophisticated network running through its harness, I don’t want to mess with it.
so my plan is to get well matched speakers and apply sound deadening tape to reduce the resonance of sound in the door (eliminate the tin can effect).
@ECNJ , this makes good sense. Do you know the make and model of our base audio system? I read in this thread that it is Blaupunkt .
Would be good to verify exact spec, is it 150W per channel, assuming it has 4 channels, or is it total output, which would be pedestrian.
I hear what you are saying about the HOLD function and hope I can help explain...
When you are coming to a stop on any kind of hill, in order for the hold function to engage, the car must be at a complete stop before you release the brake, the clutch must be pressed in and the gear must be selected... I know I ran into situations where the car was fully stopped, and clutch pressed but I was in neutral and that wouldnt activate it... Once you figure out the combo, the car always "holds" itself and stops you from rolling back... its a great feature and it does work. I'm guessing in your situation you might have either still been rolling a bit? or maybe you had clutch in but not the gear selected?
Keep at it... I promise it works haha,
I've had the HOLD function on my 718 S with PDK. Nice little feature, a bit annoying as it holds even on a very gentle grade, but a little extra gas releases it. Never had one on a manual though (my 987 never had that), so this should be interesting. Reading through the original post on this. I think Subie may have been the first to have this (80s?).
Last edited by Roadworrier; 05-26-2023 at 08:15 AM.
ECNJ may mess around here a lot but he should make a lot of sense. Didn’t get 99 percentile on GMAT by happenstance.
So, my audio guy told me he pays to be on some car audio database where he can look up specs by VIN. He looked mine up but to his surprise it had very little info. Wasn’t clear on power being total output. But was assuming around 35 watts per channel. He will test later when he takes system apart. Also wasn’t sure if power was peak or RMS. RMS is what really counts, but he thought even if RMS total 150 is insufficient. E.G. I’m going to have 1 additional speaker added at 400+ RMS in comparison. I suggest everyone speak to their own audio guy in greater detail. Maybe they are on different database with greater detail? Or they should have a plan B like I do based on further testing/finding.
BTW, I also saw that posted above and shared with my audio guy. That database had great details around what he needed as an installer. I told him T may hav 8 total speakers. He was looking at a detailed diagram that showed him 10. 2 Tweets on dash, 4 on the doors and 4 in the rear. Who know. Maybe diagram is incorrect? Again, my guy is willing to be flexible on final pricing and install based on actual findings…
I missed boat number two last night. Frustrated doesn't even begin to describe how I'm feeling right now. I'm going to stop looking at TYD because I keep getting let down. Received my allocation in December, car made it to port 5/8 and looks like it's not getting on a boat until 6/22 with a late July delivery. I'm getting married late July so even if that schedule holds I won't be able to pick my car up until mid August. Wonderful.....
That’s a bummer. Congrats on the wedding though!
Same here, missed boat 1 last week. Next one is 6/6. Based on what I’ve been reading it takes most folks 4-5 weeks to get on a boat, so I’m probably looking at July delivery as well.
ECNJ may mess around here a lot but he should make a lot of sense. Didn’t get 99 percentile on GMAT by happenstance.
So, my audio guy told me he pays to be on some car audio database where he can look up specs by VIN. He looked mine up but to his surprise it had very little info. Wasn’t clear on power being total output. But was assuming around 35 watts per channel. He will test later when he takes system apart. Also wasn’t sure if power was peak or RMS. RMS is what really counts, but he thought even if RMS total 150 is insufficient. E.G. I’m going to have 1 additional speaker added at 400+ RMS in comparison. I suggest everyone speak to their own audio guy in greater detail. Maybe they are on different database with greater detail? Or they should have a plan B like I do based on further testing/finding.
BTW, I also saw that posted above and shared with my audio guy. That database had great details around what he needed as an installer. I told him T may hav 8 total speakers. He was looking at a detailed diagram that showed him 10. 2 Tweets on dash, 4 on the doors and 4 in the rear. Who know. Maybe diagram is incorrect? Again, my guy is willing to be flexible on final pricing and install based on actual findings…
Good stuff @ECNJ
Keep that info coming. Slowly but surely we’ll crack this sound conundrum.
Im still waiting for Focal to get back to me re the amplifier output, which no doubt they are fully aware of having designed the P-60 pack around it.
05-25-2023, 07:11 PM
