ThWombatCredenza

I feel your frustration. At first I could not get my Charge o mat to work using the cigarette lighter ( which is the charger/method Porsche recommends). Cold started my 2021 several desperate times in case that was necessary , tried numerous sequences. Then...it worked - at least for the past 8 days.

I had everything plugged in (car and outlet). Ignition off. Having come out to the garage to find it blinking green indicating disconnected, I then Turned on ignition, pressed mode twice to get to Li, lights came on and ...stayed good.

I got this charger, 1 because Porsche recommends and 2 it charges Li and lead batteries ( so I can charge my other car). I know it’s CTEK made. The convenience of the cigarette lighter is great (IF you can convince it to work).

deeare7

Aren't all US 992 batteries lead AGM batteries? Why are people based in the US using Li mode?

ThWombatCredenza

if you have rear axle steering, then you have a Lithium battery.

and, in reference to some above posts, basically the older the car the less it would need charging as all the new tech tends to sap energy.

JCH997

This procedure works for me, (1) Plug the charger into the power sources, a garage receptacle or a powered-on UPS. (2) Adjust the charger mode to Li-on - a light indicates the correct mode. (3) Plug the 12 v cord into the 12 v outlet in the passenger footwell. The plug need to be properly seated in the outlet so that an electrical connection is established (see below). Once it is properly seated, you should see another light appear on the charger indicating some level of the car's battery charge and evidencing that a connection has been established. (4) Turn on the ignition for 30 seconds or so. (5) Turn off the ignition. (6) Lock the doors (7) check it again in a couple hours. If it's not working, unplug everything and go back to (1).





The metal extrusions in the third layer from the top of the plug need to line up with depressed areas in the 12 volt socket. If they aren't lined up, you may get a false positive light on the maintainer in my step (3) which will go out after a bit. I think I am used to omni-directional 12 volt plugs where it doesn't matter how it gets pushed into the outlet. This plug is different. It can be inserted but still fail to connect electrically if it is not properly aligned.






The metal extrusions on the plug needs to align with the depressions inside the 12 volt socket. One of the depressions shows in this image at the 3 o'clock position. There's another at the 9 o'clock position. Both sides of the plug need to be anchored inside both of the indents inside the 12 volt socket.


Other notes:

I have found other sequences work too. One key seems to be rebooting - starting fresh by plugging the maintainer to the power source and the other is getting the proper connections inside the outlet.

I have found that sometimes my sequence doesn't work. It seems like that happens when I don't give the car enough time to power down after a drive or after a door has been opened. But sometimes...it seems to work with no delay between driving and plugging it in. When the connection fails, I have been successful in just redoing the sequence, starting with (1) rebooting - unplugging and re- plugging in the maintainer.

I use a UPS. We are subject to power failures. If the power goes out, even momentarily, the electrical connection gets dropped and the maintainer goes offline. The UPS has maintained the maintainer's connection for me.

I can't believe it is this fussy.

deeare7

Yes this does seem unnecessarily fussy.

Ok another question (I am neither an electrician nor a mechanic) - Many sources including the CTEK and 992 owners manual say the negative should not be attached to the negative terminal of the battery but rather a farther distance away (the owners manuals shows a spot to the far right - if facing the vehicle). As I understand it, this is to reduce the chance of a spark which then could ignite flammable gasses. Google seems to offer varying opinions on this.

However, the CTEK alligator clips are not nearly long enough to reach that far. Are people just attaching the alligator clips to the battery terminals?
And if using the eyelet attachments, they are obviously attached to the positive and negative terminals, I assume there is no spark risk with this?

dgtarga

I use the eyelet attachments connected directly to the positive and negative terminals. Solid, permanent connection should not pose a risk of spark. Haven't blown anything up yet.....

andrewjn

I had an entire saga with this. Buy the ctek li charger ($109 on Amazon). Connect it directly to the battery under the fronk and plastic cover. I snake mine right under the wipers. Tucks nicely when not in use and is easy to get to and unplug/plug. The ctek cord has a nice rubber cap for when it is disconnected (to keep it dry?). Works like a charm on all my cars. The Porsche charger doesn’t connect to the battery directly.....I really don’t understand why. But there it is.....

deeare7

More questions
1)Can the positive (red) eyelet terminal attach underneath either nut at the orange or cyan arrow? The orange nut looks to contain the actual lead from the car.
2)The bigger problem is attaching the negative (black) eyelet terminal. The nut at the yellow arrow does not come off. If you look closely at the picture there is a lip of metal that surrounds the nut. Loosening that nut loosens the entire complex so that it will come off the much larger post directly above the nut in the picture. There doesn't seem to be an easy way to attach the black eyelet.

Thanks for assisting.

Joan Alcover

Just losen the nuts; do not unscrew them totally (off the bolt) for fear of breaking the bolt.
You can connect the CTEK wire eyelets on the bolt (over the nut already in place) and then tighten them on with an additional nut,
It is better to connect the negative eyelet to the "negative mass" post of the car rather than directly to the negative post of the battery. It is not a question of avoiding a spark, it is just to make sure the "complex battery control software" of your Porsche receives "all the correct information needed".

Joan Alcover

What will work in all instances:

• Start with charger disconnected from mains;
• Connect "cigarette lighter end" of charger cable to passenger footwell plug;
• Turn on ignition of car; no need to start the engine;
• Connect charger to mains and chose option (lead-acid or lithium-ion);
• Turn off car ignition;
• Lock car.

m1kegibson

Perhaps there is something different with LiPO battery but I have not experienced an issue using footwell socket with my AGM battery and CTEK charger.

I am sure you are aware that the footwell socket it disabled 30 minutes (approx) after ignition is turned off UNLESS an active charger is plugged into it before 30 minute time-out.

I do the following and have never had an issue. This is summarised from what is specified in the charge-o-mat manual and applies to AGM and LiPO batteries

1. If car ignition has been off for more than 30 minutes (eg car has been standing for a while) turn ignition on and then off in order to reset the footwell socket to active state. Steps 2-4 must be completed within 30 minutes of switch off.
2. Plug charger tail into footwell socket.
3. Plug charger into wall socket and switch on
4. Power lamp on charger should be on. Select charging mode if it needs to be changed
5. Verify that it begins its charging sequence.
6. If it stops charging after 30 minutes OR does not start charging at all, go back to 1. Porsche seem to acknowledge that the auto-off might kick in even if a charger is connected though I have never had this happen.

As an aside, I have the CTEK indicator plug with built in LED battery condition indicator. In step 2, this allows me to verify that the footwell socket is active (the LEDs will light up) before going to step 3. If none of the LEDs light up, it means the footwell socket is disabled and need to repeat step 1; though this has never happened to me. Indicator plug for CTEK - (https://www.ctek.com/uk/products/car...cator-plug-12v)

ADDED: I know of a number of people who have experienced issues as a consequence of plugging in the live charger whilst the ignition is on. I believe you MUST connect the charger (or at least turn it on) AFTER turning off ignition.

Joan Alcover

In some instances the "sophisticated Porsche battery control software" may not receive "all the correct information from the battery" if you connect directly to the battery negative rather than to the "car negative mass post"

Joan Alcover

It is better to connect the negative eyelet to the "negative mass" post of the car rather than directly to the negative post of the battery. It is not a question of avoiding a spark, it is just to make sure the "complex battery control software" of your Porsche receives "all the correct information needed". This appears to be particularly important for the Lithium-ion batteries, less so for the lead-acid/AGM ones.

dgtarga

That's exactly what I did. In an earlier post I said that I went with the eyelets directly to the battery but that was an oversimplified description. And as mentioned, using a nut to attach the eyelet over the existing nut was how I made the attachment.

Kitc2246

I thought I saw an earlier thread that the footwell outlet can be coded "on" with PIWIS which would eliminate the power outage reboot issue.