How to wash your car, by Statusdetail - Chicagoland
#16
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Good video but I find it impossible to maintain the car that way as it’s just too big of a time commitment. When my car is just slightly dirty like the one in that video, I find that a good waterless wash works very well and only takes 30-40 minutes in my garage. I am not someone who drops thousands of $$ on paint corrections and ceramic though so my standards are probably not up to snuff for someone who demands absolute perfection. But my car does always look clean and shiny
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dribar (10-07-2020)
#17
Rennlist Member
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Heres the attachment I use with it.
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HouTexCarreraS (07-13-2020)
#18
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I'm not a fan of the traditional two bucket method. If you really want to protect your paint, just use the 7-8 microfiber mitt method. I have two buckets. One is the soap bucket. The second is an empty bucket. I dip a clean microfiber mitt in the soapy water and then work my way from top to bottom of the car. I never re-use a mitt during a wash. I use each mitt once on the car (for a small portion of a car) and then plop it into the empty bucket. It doesn't take more than 7 mitts to do the whole car. I then just wash all the used mitts in the washing machine and then they are ready for the next time I wash the car. The mitts are only like 9 bucks each or something.
Perhaps I should be using the mitts and not the towels.
#19
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Good video but I find it impossible to maintain the car that way as it’s just too big of a time commitment. When my car is just slightly dirty like the one in that video, I find that a good waterless wash works very well and only takes 30-40 minutes in my garage. I am not someone who drops thousands of $$ on paint corrections and ceramic though so my standards are probably not up to snuff for someone who demands absolute perfection. But my car does always look clean and shiny ![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
My car is black, and black is tough to keep shiny and swirl free.
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Zanotti (04-14-2021)
#20
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The microfiber mitts are great. I just noticed they are now at $7 from Chemical Guys. One of my cars is flat black, and the 7-mitt method helps avoid swirl marks. I like to get the neon green mitts, that way I can easily see how dirty they are getting. If it looks like its starting to get dirty, then it goes in the second bucket and I grab a fresh mitt from the soap bucket. But no matter what, I always use at least 7 mitts, even if the mitt looks clean after doing its designated spot on the car.
Last edited by LexProf; 07-13-2020 at 10:51 AM.
#21
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It’s all about the 25 esoteric microfiber method.
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Esoteric_Detail (07-14-2020)
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Mike Murphy (07-13-2020)
#23
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I just pressure washed my car with water only. And did nothing else but leaf blower the car dry. Sure enough, no scratches anywhere, since I didn’t even touch it. Now, the car is still dirty on the hood and front bumper, but everywhere else, looks clean. Took 10 mins. I like this ceramic coating.
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doug992 (07-16-2020)
#24
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This is pretty much exactly how I was my car, except I have a foam gun....not cannon. Really should bite the bullet and buy a pressure washer and foam cannon but can't decide which pressure washer to buy. Obsessed garage has some very good, albiet, pricey ones.....
#25
Three Wheelin'
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Not a bad price and it was delivered earlier today with free shipping to Alaska. I haven't had a chance to open the box and check it out yet.
#27
Racer
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I usually don't pick apart other people's videos since it is all amateur work, but his detailing method lacks mitigation of swirling/marring the paint.
There are two things he fails to point out that can affect your pricey paint job:
1. He foamed the car, then immediately started using the wash pad on top of it. This is a big no-no. The purpose of foaming a car is to make minimal amount of contact with the paint, which can cause swirls. He should have foamed, then rinsed the car off. By rinsing the car of the foam, it removes most surface contaminants so you aren't grinding them into the paint when you use the wash pad. It's basically a pre-wash, before your wash. If your car has already been polished and ceramic coated, definitely rinse first, then wash. Otherwise, you'll destroy all the work your detail shop did, and throw money out the window.
2. He used the same wash pad on the entire car, including the upper and lower panels. Everyone knows the lower parts of the car (rockers, bumpers, etc) contain a lot more contaminants in them, like bugs, tar, heavier dirt, etc. The foam cannon process may have not removed these larger contaminants. By using the same wash pad on both the upper and lower sections, you will create scratches and mar your paint job. Instead, he should be using two wash pads, one for the upper section, one for the lower. After he washes half of the upper section, he should flip the wash pad over to wash the other half of the upper section. Same process for the other pad on the lower sections.
If you could care less about wash methods and don't mind swirling, just take your car to a car wash that has those polyester strips which beat the hell out of your paint. Or, you could do his method. (I actually use his method on my Audi A8L because it's a DD and I could care less about the paint...for my 992 S, that's a completely different story since it has been paint corrected, PPF'd and Modesta Glass Coated).
There are two things he fails to point out that can affect your pricey paint job:
1. He foamed the car, then immediately started using the wash pad on top of it. This is a big no-no. The purpose of foaming a car is to make minimal amount of contact with the paint, which can cause swirls. He should have foamed, then rinsed the car off. By rinsing the car of the foam, it removes most surface contaminants so you aren't grinding them into the paint when you use the wash pad. It's basically a pre-wash, before your wash. If your car has already been polished and ceramic coated, definitely rinse first, then wash. Otherwise, you'll destroy all the work your detail shop did, and throw money out the window.
2. He used the same wash pad on the entire car, including the upper and lower panels. Everyone knows the lower parts of the car (rockers, bumpers, etc) contain a lot more contaminants in them, like bugs, tar, heavier dirt, etc. The foam cannon process may have not removed these larger contaminants. By using the same wash pad on both the upper and lower sections, you will create scratches and mar your paint job. Instead, he should be using two wash pads, one for the upper section, one for the lower. After he washes half of the upper section, he should flip the wash pad over to wash the other half of the upper section. Same process for the other pad on the lower sections.
If you could care less about wash methods and don't mind swirling, just take your car to a car wash that has those polyester strips which beat the hell out of your paint. Or, you could do his method. (I actually use his method on my Audi A8L because it's a DD and I could care less about the paint...for my 992 S, that's a completely different story since it has been paint corrected, PPF'd and Modesta Glass Coated).
#28
Three Wheelin'
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#30
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Yeah don't mean to distract from someone else's work, but particularly for people in the UK, I can highly and personally recommend Jim White @ White Details.
After a small hiatus, hes now back and taking new bookings.
And for our US friends, you can at least check him out on YouTube 👍
He hasn't video'd a 992 (didn't film mine, the bugger!) but think he's uploaded a 991 GTS; plus a load of other exotica both old and new.
After a small hiatus, hes now back and taking new bookings.
And for our US friends, you can at least check him out on YouTube 👍
He hasn't video'd a 992 (didn't film mine, the bugger!) but think he's uploaded a 991 GTS; plus a load of other exotica both old and new.