How to wash your car, by Statusdetail - Chicagoland
07-16-2020, 04:17 PM
#31
Burning Brakes
Link?
08-24-2020, 08:06 PM
#33
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I usually don't pick apart other people's videos since it is all amateur work, but his detailing method lacks mitigation of swirling/marring the paint.
There are two things he fails to point out that can affect your pricey paint job:
1. He foamed the car, then immediately started using the wash pad on top of it. This is a big no-no. The purpose of foaming a car is to make minimal amount of contact with the paint, which can cause swirls. He should have foamed, then rinsed the car off. By rinsing the car of the foam, it removes most surface contaminants so you aren't grinding them into the paint when you use the wash pad. It's basically a pre-wash, before your wash. If your car has already been polished and ceramic coated, definitely rinse first, then wash. Otherwise, you'll destroy all the work your detail shop did, and throw money out the window.
2. He used the same wash pad on the entire car, including the upper and lower panels. Everyone knows the lower parts of the car (rockers, bumpers, etc) contain a lot more contaminants in them, like bugs, tar, heavier dirt, etc. The foam cannon process may have not removed these larger contaminants. By using the same wash pad on both the upper and lower sections, you will create scratches and mar your paint job. Instead, he should be using two wash pads, one for the upper section, one for the lower. After he washes half of the upper section, he should flip the wash pad over to wash the other half of the upper section. Same process for the other pad on the lower sections.
If you could care less about wash methods and don't mind swirling, just take your car to a car wash that has those polyester strips which beat the hell out of your paint. Or, you could do his method. (I actually use his method on my Audi A8L because it's a DD and I could care less about the paint...for my 992 S, that's a completely different story since it has been paint corrected, PPF'd and Modesta Glass Coated).
There are two things he fails to point out that can affect your pricey paint job:
1. He foamed the car, then immediately started using the wash pad on top of it. This is a big no-no. The purpose of foaming a car is to make minimal amount of contact with the paint, which can cause swirls. He should have foamed, then rinsed the car off. By rinsing the car of the foam, it removes most surface contaminants so you aren't grinding them into the paint when you use the wash pad. It's basically a pre-wash, before your wash. If your car has already been polished and ceramic coated, definitely rinse first, then wash. Otherwise, you'll destroy all the work your detail shop did, and throw money out the window.
2. He used the same wash pad on the entire car, including the upper and lower panels. Everyone knows the lower parts of the car (rockers, bumpers, etc) contain a lot more contaminants in them, like bugs, tar, heavier dirt, etc. The foam cannon process may have not removed these larger contaminants. By using the same wash pad on both the upper and lower sections, you will create scratches and mar your paint job. Instead, he should be using two wash pads, one for the upper section, one for the lower. After he washes half of the upper section, he should flip the wash pad over to wash the other half of the upper section. Same process for the other pad on the lower sections.
If you could care less about wash methods and don't mind swirling, just take your car to a car wash that has those polyester strips which beat the hell out of your paint. Or, you could do his method. (I actually use his method on my Audi A8L because it's a DD and I could care less about the paint...for my 992 S, that's a completely different story since it has been paint corrected, PPF'd and Modesta Glass Coated).
For your second point, he said he sometimes does use more than one wash pad, but to be clear, that's why he uses the grit guards on the rise side, rubs the mitt against the guard, and makes sure to check the wash pad after rinsing it to make sure there isn't dirt and debris on it before moving forward.
He said that no two cars have the same cleaning procedure - which makes this whole topic even more complicated.
We had a long discussion about types and quality levels of wash mitts and microfiber towels. There are large differences among the options out there, which is why I'm going to demote my Costco towels for things like the wheels and insides of the frunk, engine lid, and inside the door jams, and interior. Reason? For starters, those towels have edges that can scratch, not to mention the tag. And it's 350gsm on one side, which is just OK (500 or more is better), but only 150gsm on the other, which can scratch.
However, I just blow dry my car with the leaf blower, which works well once the car has been coated.
The other trick he told me was how to get clean glass. No special glass cleaner, no Windex or anything like that. Just a damp cloth with water moisture on it. And for the instrument cluster - since that is Lexan or similar material (essentially plastic) and could scratch easily - he uses compressed air and doesn't really even need to touch it on most cars.
08-25-2020, 01:45 AM
#34
Rennlist Member
I detailed my vehicles ever since my first one back in 1964...Have never taken one of my personal vehicles through a car wash...Two years ago, I decided to find someone with professional training. I still wash my vehicles once in awhile, but most of the time I use the service. This service wash includes exterior, wheel barrels and wells, engine compartment and interior. Best of all it is done at my home. This photo depicts the paint correction and ceramic coating with Gtechniq Crystal Serum Ultra.
Last edited by LASDSGT770; 08-25-2020 at 01:56 AM.
08-25-2020, 03:07 PM
#35
Three Wheelin'
Nice Porschestraße street sign :-)
That's very cool that they do it at your house!
That's very cool that they do it at your house!
Last edited by markchristenson; 08-25-2020 at 06:40 PM.
08-25-2020, 10:37 PM
#37
Well, I went ahead and bought a nice pressure washer and MTM pf22.2 foam cannon. GAME CHANGER!! Really does make a huge difference and only regret is that I did not buy it years ago. Would agree with the one post about a prewash then rinse then foam and two bucket, using multiple pads (at least one for upper and another for lower parts of the car). For those on the fence, a nice pressure washer is really nice and did wonders on the pool deck!! 
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ribold01 (04-15-2021)
08-26-2020, 12:08 AM
#38
Three Wheelin'
Well, I went ahead and bought a nice pressure washer and MTM pf22.2 foam cannon. GAME CHANGER!! Really does make a huge difference and only regret is that I did not buy it years ago. Would agree with the one post about a prewash then rinse then foam and two bucket, using multiple pads (at least one for upper and another for lower parts of the car). For those on the fence, a nice pressure washer is really nice and did wonders on the pool deck!!
08-26-2020, 12:32 AM
#39
I mostly use Adams products, so picked up their 2.0 electric pressure washer and mtm pf22.2 foam cannon. Tons of foam with their mega foam shampoo. Pressure washer seems to be good quality with all brass and stainless QD components and comes with snub nose (and wand) and steel braided 40 ft hose. Hard to beat on sale and I believe it is much better than big box stuff. Also have the Adams air cannon and it dries a car very quickly!!
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markchristenson (08-26-2020)
08-26-2020, 07:05 PM
#40
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I didn’t really want to drop $259 on products, but I think it will be worth it:
Precision Tire Dressing Applicator × 1
Gyeon Q2 Tire - 400ml/13oz × 1
Gyeon Leather Brush × 1
Gyeon Leather Cleaner - 500ml/16oz × 1
P&S Brake Buster Wheel & Tire Cleaner - 500ml/16oz × 1
MTM Hydro PF22.2 Foam Cannon × 1
Grit Guard Wash Bucket Insert × 2
Premium Microfiber Wash Pad - 10" X 10" × 1
CarPro Reset - 1000ml/32oz × 1
Precision Tire Dressing Applicator × 1
Gyeon Q2 Tire - 400ml/13oz × 1 Gyeon Leather Brush × 1 Gyeon Leather Cleaner - 500ml/16oz × 1 P&S Brake Buster Wheel & Tire Cleaner - 500ml/16oz × 1 MTM Hydro PF22.2 Foam Cannon × 1 Grit Guard Wash Bucket Insert × 2 Premium Microfiber Wash Pad - 10" X 10" × 1 CarPro Reset - 1000ml/32oz × 1
08-27-2020, 01:44 AM
#41
Rennlist Member
I was going to make similar comments. After the pre-rinse you should foam the car and let the foam dwell to further remove lose dirt and contamination. I usually wait at least 5 minutes. Then rinse the car and foam a second time to wash the vehicle.
Also agree 100% with the wash pad and the lower sections of the vehicle. I personally use two pads, one for the top side (above the mid belt line) and a second for the lower areas. That’s the worst part of the car and once the pad has been used down low it should not be passed on the top side until properly washed for the next car wash session.
Also agree 100% with the wash pad and the lower sections of the vehicle. I personally use two pads, one for the top side (above the mid belt line) and a second for the lower areas. That’s the worst part of the car and once the pad has been used down low it should not be passed on the top side until properly washed for the next car wash session.
10-06-2020, 12:47 AM
#42
Based on the other thread on how to maintain a car with PPF and Ceramic, is everyone here using a pressure washer on cars that do not have PPF? Or said another way if you get PPF you cannot use a pressure washer?
10-06-2020, 01:30 AM
#43
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
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detansinn (10-06-2020)
04-13-2021, 11:53 PM
#45
Rennlist Member
I suggest getting the robust version.
Heres the attachment I use with it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HH9QI1C..._qJ6cFbMEXBBQ1
Heres the attachment I use with it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HH9QI1C..._qJ6cFbMEXBBQ1