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I'd be interested to learn your success with Porsche's maintainer. After selecting the Lithium Ion mode, I could not get the charger to stay on line for more than 10 or so minutes, either through the 12V port or directly to the battery. Then, I locked the doors, AND the charger/maintainer worked as it should, but again it didn't want to maintain a charging status after several hours. As I'll be leaving the car unattended for a couple of months later on, I'd like to have assurance that I can maintain my battery for extended periods.
How did it go with this? I am just readying my car for winter storage :-( and I have the Porsche Charge o mat and I am wondering whether to use the 12V socket in the footwell and have the cable out of the door for 6 months.... or extend the cables under the hood using some CTEK extensions . Did you find any issues with the charger... I like you could not get it working properly but maybe I had to lock the vehicle...will try again later... Question - did yours continue to be OK after two months? How did you run cables?
^Chalky992, I've been playing a little bit with this, as I start to get my GT3 ready for winter hibernation with the Lithium battery. I plan to use the cigarette socket in the passenger footwell with my Porsche Charge O Mat Pro.
Here are the key steps, assuming the car was recently driven/ turned on / ignition cycled (if the car has sat for more than 30 minutes, first cycle the ignition):
1) Connect battery maintainer to car
2) Plug in batter maintainer to wall outlet
3) Select the battery mode (lithium battery)
4) Lock car
This is from memory, so I hope I have this all correct. Hope this helps. I still have a few questions & uncertainties about this process. My prior Porsches were so much easier.
Make note, the charger does get pretty warm as it tops up the battery to full charge. FYI.
I'm interested to learn more from others inputs, too.
For long term storage, I use CTEK connected to the battery, not the 12V outlet in the footwell. If the power goes off for any reason, the 12V socket powers off and the multi-step 12V protocol needs to be redone. With a direct connection to the battery, the connection simply restores when the power comes back on.
I got very frustrated by the 12V. I'd go through the protocol, I'd recheck it after an hour, it appeared to be connected, but I'd check back the next day and often found the connection had dropped. I know this was my user error but I couldn't consistently connect though the outlet - not an issue with the direct connection to the battery.
Agree on the charger getting warm whille it tops up the battery.
Is there anything to keep in mind before installing the quick disconnect to the battery terminals? I’ve called my dealer service rep twice now and can’t get a response and winter is fast approaching. He mentioned he thought there were some extra steps w the Li Ion but never has confirmed.
Connecting Battery Charger Leads Directly to Battery Terminals
I have used a Deltran Battery Tender for many years on a variety of vehicles including motorcycles with no issues. I noticed that the dealer charges showroom cars (when they had cars in the showroom before COVID) by connecting the positive charger lead to the positive terminal on the battery and the negative lead to the ground post on the opposite side of the battery bay area instead of the negative terminal of the battery.
I questioned this and why I could not connect both leads directly to the battery. I was told by the service writer it would be no problem connecting both leads directly to the battery terminals. I was also told the reason why they advise connecting the negative lead to the ground post is to avoid the possibility of a spark when attaching the negative lead, but if the leads are permanently attached to the battery terminals there is no concern about “sparking”.
In the past I have always connected the leads directly to the battery. The same with heated gear for my motorcycle(s) over the years. Have I just been lucky, or was the advice by the service writer accurate?
What do you all think?
I have a basic 2021 992 coupe. I bought the Porsche maintainer for $200+ connected directly to the battery. I went out of town last week and we had a power outage. I called the dealer and they confirmed that with a power outage it deselects the mode and stops charging. The dealer said most people have a home watch service so the car needs to be checked every hew weeks in case of a power outage. I called a friend and he checked and sure enough it lost the settings and wasn’t charging. The dealer offered to refund my $$ and said Porsche decided to eliminate the auto on after power outages but the previous model did.
I have a Nuco Genesis 1 on my boat battery at my lake house and Nuco confirmed that the selected mode works again when power is restored.
I have used a Deltran Battery Tender for many years on a variety of vehicles including motorcycles with no issues. I noticed that the dealer charges showroom cars (when they had cars in the showroom before COVID) by connecting the positive charger lead to the positive terminal on the battery and the negative lead to the ground post on the opposite side of the battery bay area instead of the negative terminal of the battery.
I questioned this and why I could not connect both leads directly to the battery. I was told by the service writer it would be no problem connecting both leads directly to the battery terminals. I was also told the reason why they advise connecting the negative lead to the ground post is to avoid the possibility of a spark when attaching the negative lead, but if the leads are permanently attached to the battery terminals there is no concern about “sparking”.
In the past I have always connected the leads directly to the battery. The same with heated gear for my motorcycle(s) over the years. Have I just been lucky, or was the advice by the service writer accurate?
What do you all think?
The service writer's advice was exactly correct. Lead acid batteries do generate hydrogen gas. They very occasionally blow up, so the point is to avoid sparks near the battery. If the terminals are permanently connected there is no risk of sparks.
Why is there a sticker on the battery bar that shows a clamp with a line through it?
I don't know what the "battery bar" is but obviously don't put a jumper cable clamp there.
There is a dedicated point to attach the negative cable. Look in your manual.
There is a flat bar on top of the battery. The sticker is a picture of a battery clamp and a battery terminal with a line through it. It appears to indicate no clamps on the battery terminals.
Correct...just to provide a little visual clarity in the image below. this would be the top hold down bracket...as garthg mentioned you should have dedicated jump points that should be used and outlined in the manual.
11-05-2021, 11:58 AM
