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Hi, to any who have experianced this or want to avoid this type of thing in the future we make a product that can get you out of this emergency with ease and relative simplicity.
It is called the Antigravity Batteries "Clampless Harness Kit". Its a simple harness that connects to your battery then you can connect an Antigravity MiCRO-START Jump Starter to it and open the frunk OR start the Car easily.
The problem with trying to energize through the fuse box busbar is that it doesn't transmit enough current at times to energize the hood release on the car because the battery is dead and is taking the energy of the battery you connect to the busbar. It has I think a 18 awg wire there so not very good. So you need to go directly to the battery with a GOOD Jump Starter, that has a decent capacity and current connected to a thicker wire gauge to make sure the Cars system is energized, then it will easily pop the hood.
Our product can be found here to see the details >>>> https://antigravitybatteries.com/pro...s-msa10b-long/
You've introduced me to another rabbit hole of RC battery connections. SAE, EC3, EC5, EC6, EC8, IC5, 3...... I am going to run a standard ring terminal to SAE plus on the car, then get am SAE to EC5 adapter to plug into my GooLoo booster. Your EC5 to ring terminal would work but then I could not use my existing trickle chargers. This way I can trickle charge the car then use the adapter to power from my booster if necessary with the exact same harness
You've introduced me to another rabbit hole of RC battery connections. SAE, EC3, EC5, EC6, EC8, IC5, 3...... I am going to run a standard ring terminal to SAE plus on the car, then get am SAE to EC5 adapter to plug into my GooLoo booster. Your EC5 to ring terminal would work but then I could not use my existing trickle chargers. This way I can trickle charge the car then use the adapter to power from my booster if necessary with the exact same harness
Only thing I'd just want to touch on and advise exercising caution on is if you were at any point looking to actually jump/boost the car..typically the standard SAE charging cables(pigtails) are a smaller gage and not rated to handle the amperage a jumpstarter/booster outputs so they could be damaged in that regard. Also, without any inline protect(diode assembly) there may not be anything to prevent the backflow of charge from vehicle once it is started from going back into the jumpstarter/booster which could also damage it. Again, just a couple things to note..
Best regards,
Not sure but per the picture from prior shows the PDK was throwing an error about the programming. I did notice sometimes the PDK seemed to do a "double note" shift like it was engaging two gears simultaneously which felt unbalanced. Maybe this PDK update fixes it?
Wow brother I’m really sorry that happened to you. What a pain in the butt. Do you think if you had had a tender cable accessible for a jump starter it would’ve turned over?
Only thing I'd just want to touch on and advise exercising caution on is if you were at any point looking to actually jump/boost the car..typically the standard SAE charging cables(pigtails) are a smaller gage and not rated to handle the amperage a jumpstarter/booster outputs so they could be damaged in that regard. Also, without any inline protect(diode assembly) there may not be anything to prevent the backflow of charge from vehicle once it is started from going back into the jumpstarter/booster which could also damage it. Again, just a couple things to note..
Best regards,
I was going to call your company and ask this question but I think it could benefit everyone else on this thread. Do you have a solution to what you just talked about? Because @eclou has a great point. It would be wonderful to be able to kill two birds with one stone. Have the access for the quick jumpstart, but also be able to trickle charge the battery whenever you want to.
Only thing I'd just want to touch on and advise exercising caution on is if you were at any point looking to actually jump/boost the car..typically the standard SAE charging cables(pigtails) are a smaller gage and not rated to handle the amperage a jumpstarter/booster outputs so they could be damaged in that regard. Also, without any inline protect(diode assembly) there may not be anything to prevent the backflow of charge from vehicle once it is started from going back into the jumpstarter/booster which could also damage it. Again, just a couple things to note..
Best regards,
I've ordered the SAE pigtail on Amazon that has the inline fuse/diode assembly and its 10ga which is the largest gauge wiring for standard that I could find. I was not planning on trying to ever jump the battery with this wiring but rather just to get enough juice to open the frunk. I would then boost directly off the battery terminals with the booster clamps which use 8 gauge wiring or higher
1)Ring terminals to SAE adapter with inline fuse 10 gauge
2)EC5 to SAE adapter 10 gauge
The boosters I have are two GooLoo GT3000 and GT4000 which are 3000A and 4000A jump starters. They have a proprietary shape plug for the battery clamp cable that I thought looked closest to the EC5 connector type. Its not a direct fit. I decided to try to make it fit so I trimmed back the blue insulators and this allows the EC5 adapter to fully seat into the jump starter. Hooked up to the car battery and appears to have a good connection. It would have been far easier to use the Antigravity harness or a Noco harness but I don't have either and didn't want to have to reinvest in yet another system
EC5 adapter on left after trimming, EC5 adapter in middle untrimmed, proprietary GooLoo plug on right modified adapter seated into jump starter
Sorry to hear about this miserable experience. How did they get the car on the flatbed with the tow hook, given that it won’t go into neutral if the engine won’t start?
Sorry to hear about this miserable experience. How did they get the car on the flatbed with the tow hook, given that it won’t go into neutral if the engine won’t start?
they used a combination of go jacks on all 4 wheels and skids to ease the jacks over the flatbed transition. The pull of the tow hook is off center so one of the crew pushed into the drivers front wheel while I pushed into the passenger back wheel to try to keep it straight as the winch pulled. It was a symphony of moving parts
on mine, he (1 guy) simply pulled it on to the flatbed with wooden planks & micro adjustments to the angle of the flatbed itself - got it off the same way - he was definitely experienced at it...as he told me how many lambo's and mclarens he's done.
didn't use the tow hook...he wanted to use the undercarriage and it work so smoothly he looked like a true professional - i think the fact that i am in the NY metro area gets him plenty of experience
on mine, he (1 guy) simply pulled it on to the flatbed with wooden planks & micro adjustments to the angle of the flatbed itself - got it off the same way - he was definitely experienced at it...as he told me how many lambo's and mclarens he's done.
didn't use the tow hook...he wanted to use the undercarriage and it work so smoothly he looked like a true professional - i think the fact that i am in the NY metro area gets him plenty of experience
Tow guy told me he didn’t want to tie to undercarriage because he was afraid front bumper would be ripped off.
It seems like this battery issue is a common problem. Is there a reason several cars have the problem or is it just common battery issues? I've not had any concerns with my previous 911's and I live in Arizona which is notorious for baking batteries. Could some of these been caused by mods?
It seems like this battery issue is a common problem. Is there a reason several cars have the problem or is it just common battery issues? I've not had any concerns with my previous 911's and I live in Arizona which is notorious for baking batteries. Could some of these been caused by mods?
in my case it was a wonky factory module keeping a load on the 12V battery even when the car was unused…I'm optimistic with a new correctly behaving module the car will be able to sit idle "longer" before the battery is dead - but as I noted in my thread going forward with modern vehicles I believe it's impossible to safely store these vehicles for extended periods of time due to:
keyless entry/start (something has to "listen" for the RF signal) that takes power
online status for the Porsche app - this is a wireless communication and the car has to be "awake" - more power demand
in car security system (the flashing red light)
interior monitoring
other's I don't know about
my new policy and "best practice" going forward is 4+ weeks of non-use I consider requiring 12V trickle charging a reasonable requirement given the low but constant demand on power even while the car is unused. How did a I arrive at this? I made a SWAG (Scientific Wild *** Guess). Modern cars have systems that never "sleep" only go into low power mode but are constantly alert - if you do not drive the vehicle it will drain the 12V to "offline"…there is no other way these feature sets can work without continuous power.
Now what I do believe is reasonable but porsche does not provide:
higher capacity factory battery - they know these systems are "alive" and need constant power - they should provide a battery that can handle the car being idle for at least 6 months (assuming the car is behaving correctly and as designed which in my case due to a bad module it was not)
a more supported and direct/easy method to externally maintain the 12V battery vs. alligator clamps
if they need constant power for long term storage they should provide a well integrated, easy method for doing so.
porsche should make their vehicle's easier to "recover" vs the "jump start the fuse panel to get the frunk open" procedures we all have endure currently…
because of my experiences the past several years I now consider a NOCO (or equivalent) 12V booster essential vehicle equipment for any modern vehicle (2016 or later?)
Spoiler
I learned a lot about jump starting Porsche's when my 2020 Taycan could drain the 12V to empty while plugged in waiting to charge the main battery (a bit like dying of dehydration while swimming in a fresh water lake) - Porsche ultimately fixed this issue in software - but onboard systems could get into a state where they drained the low capacity 12V system low enough to trip off line - and then there was no system "alive" to wake up the vehicle's big battery - so you had to jump start an electric vehicle - mind you there was 800V's and in some cases over 80 kwh's of available power in the big battery - but it was unreachable because the 12V battery that controlled the relay had dropped offline due to continuous demand induced by charging system errors while plugged into a 240V/50 amp external power source…OMG what a cluster…
other EV vendors also have trouble keeping their EV's alive due to 12V drains even though they have ample power in the "big battery" but it's offline for safety while the car is "unused" - and if the 12V dies there is no way to energize the high voltage relay to wakeup the big battery…ROFL Yes you may need to "jump start" an EV with a dead 12V battery (actually you just need to "boost" the 12V enough to wake the car up - at which point the car comes alive, notices the 12V is low and engages the onboard DC/DC converter and uses power from the "big battery" to recharge the 12V battery) - but technically you need to jump start it - to Porsche's credit - they fixed the software in 2021 and there are few if any further reports of this issue - my personal 2020 Taycan has been rock solid since the fix - even lasting 6+ weeks of non-use with main battery at 50% or less…but this problem was embarrassing at the time IMHO…
modern cars and Porsche's in particular need trickle charging to stay alive these days because of the "always on" systems that are now inherent in the product feature set. The choices seem to be: trickle charger required after some number of "weeks" of a non-use - or ship with a higher capacity battery from the factory - but that only moves the period of time out further for requiring 12V trickle charging - because these vehicle's are never full shut off…there is always something "awake" waiting for an RF signal of some sort to cause an action…
good 12V trickle charger + 12V booster is requirement equipment these days - unless the car is driven frequently enough and long enough duration.
Last edited by daveo4porsche; 07-02-2023 at 12:07 PM.
I don’t let a newer car with lithium battery sit longer than 2 weeks without being on the trickle charger. The old days are over, these new cars have constant loads like above said, they are always listening and uploading. Be safe and if over 2 weeks, charge it. They are designed to drive not be stored.
06-26-2023, 01:44 PM
Yes you may need to "jump start" an EV with a dead 12V battery (actually you just need to "boost" the 12V enough to wake the car up - at which point the car comes alive, notices the 12V is low and engages the onboard DC/DC converter and uses power from the "big battery" to recharge the 12V battery) - but technically you need to jump start it - to Porsche's credit - they fixed the software in 2021 and there are few if any further reports of this issue - my personal 2020 Taycan has been rock solid since the fix - even lasting 6+ weeks of non-use with main battery at 50% or less…but this problem was embarrassing at the time IMHO…