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These are stock plugs running at .022" and they perform fantastic and are what we recommend to all of our clients. We do not see a need to go a step colder, although you could if you wanted.
As far as lifespan goes I think longer testing would be needed with more miles to give a definitive answer. We see stock plugs with stock gapping "go bad" as soon as 15k miles and blow out spark as you increase power. I think it's fair to state that a 10k change interval would be good.
It should be understood that pushing such high power levels does put more stress on ignition systems as compared to stock and require changing out more frequently. This goes for any platform really.
Ouch. 10k miles? Sounds like its even rougher than the plug change on the 997.1TT. For that job most have recommended lowering the engine cradle a couple inches. I did it once and will gladly pay for someone else to do it. Took me hours. Thanks for this info!
These are stock plugs running at .022" and they perform fantastic and are what we recommend to all of our clients. We do not see a need to go a step colder, although you could if you wanted.
As far as lifespan goes I think longer testing would be needed with more miles to give a definitive answer. We see stock plugs with stock gapping "go bad" as soon as 15k miles and blow out spark as you increase power. I think it's fair to state that a 10k change interval would be good.
It should be understood that pushing such high power levels does put more stress on ignition systems as compared to stock and require changing out more frequently. This goes for any platform really.
-Charles@M
If running stock turbos but your tune, intercooler, pdk tune, headers and no cats do you feel the need to change at a similar rate or gap them down? Just clarifying if this is only for the turbo upgraded cars or not.
If running stock turbos but your tune, intercooler, pdk tune, headers and no cats do you feel the need to change at a similar rate or gap them down? Just clarifying if this is only for the turbo upgraded cars or not.
We recommend all cars to be gapped down to .022" to prevent blowing out spark. Most stock turbo cars are fine with the stock gapping as they come from the Porsche factory, but if you are due for plugs you should do this gapping rather than the factory larger gapping. You can stick to your regular service interval as well.
Upgraded turbos cars for sure will need this lower gapping.
The cool thing about M-Tuner is the ability to datalog, so with empirical data we can analyze and see if a car is blowing out spark or not and advise on that service.
Originally Posted by eclou
Ouch. 10k miles? Sounds like its even rougher than the plug change on the 997.1TT. For that job most have recommended lowering the engine cradle a couple inches. I did it once and will gladly pay for someone else to do it. Took me hours. Thanks for this info!
It's really not too bad of a job and the engine doesn't need to be lowered to do it on the 992. 10k mile interval is just a best guess on the big turbo cars and it's something with more test miles we can update later on. Keep in mind that spark plug "life" depends on a lot of factors including the fuel, fuel additives, power output, warmup intervals, methanol, etc. We always edge on the side of caution and do our service intervals early and before a big racing event or season. It's part of the formula for winning.
Originally Posted by Ipe
Amazing job Charles! Keep up the good work!
Ipe
Thank you Ipe!!!
-Charles@M
Last edited by M Engineering; 09-21-2022 at 04:19 PM.
Howdy and Happy Friday, some more photos and descriptions along the way for y'all as we complete our service and race-ready-ing for our Stage 4+M PTME1100 shop car. Let me know if you have any questions about anything.
Last night we got ahold of the tool for the oil filter removal and replacement. It's just a large socket, since our FL Shop is so new I don't quite have everything in the toolbox just yet Once it was off, we ripped open the filter element to inspect for any metal shavings or abnormalities that may be present. Everything checked out just fine as we had expected.
We had sent out an oil analysis when we originally drained the oil. All metal levels were normal for the miles on the oil. We did have high levels of lead due to running C15 at one point for some testing, which is a leaded gas and entered from blow-by. This was normal for running this type of fuel. Neat to see that this could be picked up in the reading so well.
For our finished ProTune on this car we are running MS109 which is unleaded.
Installing the new oil filter. The filter also comes with a new oring that you put on the filter cap.
Before we installed spark plugs, we wanted to get a bore scope to check out the tops of the pistons and cylinder walls. The bore scope is essentially a tiny little camera that you insert into the spark plug hole and view on a screen. Again, no abnormalities. Something that was nice to notice was how clean the piston tops are. Since we are spraying methanol on this car, things are staying extra clean and there is no excess of carbon buildup. There is actually still signs of the original part number you can see too.
Before installing the spark plugs, it's vital to set the correct gapping. With our swanky spark-plug gapping tool and feeler gauge, we precisely put all plugs at .022". This tool makes it easy to do, and is much more accurate and safe than trying to gap plugs with the spark plug "coins" that set the gapping.
Reinstalling the plugs and reattaching the coil packs. Each spark plug received a correct dose of spark plug grease as well.
Before the turbos go back on, we took the extra step to replace all of the turbo line orings. These are all of the orings that go on the oil and coolant lines that feed into the turbo. With a flathead or oring pick, the old orings come off easily. We cleaned them down before installing new orings with fresh grease on them. If you don't use grease, you will have a heck of a time putting everything back together smoothly and can rip an oring.
Hello, a few months ago I saw where you offered a 5% discount when you purchased the M suite upgrade for a 2021 992 Turbo S. Is this still the case? I am interested and definitely like the numbers and the options available with the package on the exhaust options as I do not have the sport muffler option. At your convenience please let me know and I will be ready to purchase. Thanks, Luis A Ramirez 2021 992 Turbo s.
You are the 3rd or 4th asking the same question. Crickets
M Engineering if you don’t have any dyno charts of the turbo just say so we we don’t keep asking
Some members with turbo already have their tune if they want to share dyno chart
I’ll be getting tune early next year and for sure will post dyno charts
Hello, a few months ago I saw where you offered a 5% discount when you purchased the M suite upgrade for a 2021 992 Turbo S. Is this still the case? I am interested and definitely like the numbers and the options available with the package on the exhaust options as I do not have the sport muffler option. At your convenience please let me know and I will be ready to purchase. Thanks, Luis A Ramirez 2021 992 Turbo s.
Shoot me a PM and I can get you are Rennlist discount at 5% off M-Tuner.
Originally Posted by Engro
You are the 3rd or 4th asking the same question. Crickets
M Engineering if you don’t have any dyno charts of the turbo just say so we we don’t keep asking
Some members with turbo already have their tune if they want to share dyno chart
I’ll be getting tune early next year and for sure will post dyno charts
We have done plenty of Turbo Non-S but I don't have any graphs at the moment that are good for a comparison that are same dyno/conditions etc. We did do one at the dyno at World (was actually the first non-S car tuned) but it is lost in dyno abyss of files unfortunately. If anyone in South Florida buys M-Tuner for their Non-S 992 Turbo I will throw it on the dyno for free to get before/after numbers.
Originally Posted by 3-Pedals
How much safe power just the tune but nothing else can add? No intercooler, no exhaust, no turbos. Just bone stock car with a tune.
Here is a link to M-Tuner and our map notes that go over this information further. Shoot me a PM if you have other questions.
Been working on getting some fresh content out. We recently completed a 992 Turbo S here at our South FL shop on a REALLY hot day. Heat index was 102 and we had a DA of about 2300ft. Car still rips!
992 Turbo S
- M-Tuner (Stage 2) with PSE Valve Mod
- PDK2 Tune
- Upgraded Link Pipes
Stage 2 cars will typically make around 650 / 660 or so on 93 octane on our ProHub dyno in Florida. I'd say most of the times the DA is around 1100ft and ambient usually is in the 80's outside. Mustang and Dynojet dynos will read differently. Some are a bit higher.
09-21-2022, 01:09 PM
Once it was off, we ripped open the filter element to inspect for any metal shavings or abnormalities that may be present. Everything checked out just fine as we had expected. 
