NutCracker - Your New Centerlock Tool
#1
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NutCracker - Your New Centerlock Tool
Dear fellow rennlisters,
I am happy to post this again after a week. Now with proper Site Sponsor status. :-)
For as long as i can remember, i have been doing most of the maintenance and mods on my cars myself. When i got my 991.2 GT3T, the centerlock wheels presented an issue i needed to solve. Relying on a dealer was out of question. As i do frequent road trips around Europe, long breaker bar + beefy enough torque wrench was also ruled out for the sheer size of these tools (i need to be able to remove a wheel on the road). I have therefore focused on torque multiplication. There are solutions i'm sure you're well aware of, but i just couldn't justify the cost. I have therefore teamed up with a mate of mine, who works on WRC cars and we have developed a dedicated centerlock tool, which has successfully passed the final stress tests we have subjected it to.
We have named it the NutCracker.
NutCracker uses proven design with padded reaction arm, but the offset of the reaction arm is adjustable ensuring no matter the wheels you have, you always apply the counterforce to the part of your wheels best suited to handle the load.
We are now working on professional product photos and videos (and the boring stuff such as decent online store). First units will ship in the first half of May.
NutCracker's features:
- uses industrial grade heavy duty 5:1 torque multiplier, that can handle up to 1500 Nm (for when someone overtorqued your wheels before); input: 1/2" (regular ratchet / torque wrench), output: 3/4" (OEM centerlock socket)
- has been repeatedly tested for accuracy using the "Neiko method" described here (with results landing within 3 % accuracy as we'll demonstrate in our videos)
- has adjustable offset of the reaction arm for precise fitment to any wheel design
- is compact in size and comes with a high quality carrying case
- allows you to change wheels with engine off and without second person's assistance as it requires only limited braking force (you will need a simple reverse clamp from your hardware store to use between drivers seat and brake pedal)
- costs under USD 1K shipped from EU by FedEx + there will be a limited number of units with quite significant early adopter discount available on launch.
If you want to be among the first, follow this thread or register at Nut-Cracker.com.
12 April EDIT: Holding off until professional photos doesn't seem to be an option anymore, so let me share these two preliminary iPhone pics:
I am happy to post this again after a week. Now with proper Site Sponsor status. :-)
For as long as i can remember, i have been doing most of the maintenance and mods on my cars myself. When i got my 991.2 GT3T, the centerlock wheels presented an issue i needed to solve. Relying on a dealer was out of question. As i do frequent road trips around Europe, long breaker bar + beefy enough torque wrench was also ruled out for the sheer size of these tools (i need to be able to remove a wheel on the road). I have therefore focused on torque multiplication. There are solutions i'm sure you're well aware of, but i just couldn't justify the cost. I have therefore teamed up with a mate of mine, who works on WRC cars and we have developed a dedicated centerlock tool, which has successfully passed the final stress tests we have subjected it to.
We have named it the NutCracker.
NutCracker uses proven design with padded reaction arm, but the offset of the reaction arm is adjustable ensuring no matter the wheels you have, you always apply the counterforce to the part of your wheels best suited to handle the load.
We are now working on professional product photos and videos (and the boring stuff such as decent online store). First units will ship in the first half of May.
NutCracker's features:
- uses industrial grade heavy duty 5:1 torque multiplier, that can handle up to 1500 Nm (for when someone overtorqued your wheels before); input: 1/2" (regular ratchet / torque wrench), output: 3/4" (OEM centerlock socket)
- has been repeatedly tested for accuracy using the "Neiko method" described here (with results landing within 3 % accuracy as we'll demonstrate in our videos)
- has adjustable offset of the reaction arm for precise fitment to any wheel design
- is compact in size and comes with a high quality carrying case
- allows you to change wheels with engine off and without second person's assistance as it requires only limited braking force (you will need a simple reverse clamp from your hardware store to use between drivers seat and brake pedal)
- costs under USD 1K shipped from EU by FedEx + there will be a limited number of units with quite significant early adopter discount available on launch.
If you want to be among the first, follow this thread or register at Nut-Cracker.com.
12 April EDIT: Holding off until professional photos doesn't seem to be an option anymore, so let me share these two preliminary iPhone pics:
Last edited by Gabriel@NutCracker; 04-12-2024 at 08:10 AM. Reason: Added photos + input / output spec, reversed multiplication spec.
The following 4 users liked this post by Gabriel@NutCracker:
#3
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#4
Race Car
Subscribed.
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Gabriel@NutCracker (04-12-2024)
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ExMB (04-11-2024)
#6
You may also want to post in the GT4RS / SRS forum
#7
Race Car
a 1.5 torque multiplication I’m surprised you can remove the center lock.
to tighten the wheel to 442 foot pounds you would have to exert 294 pounds on the wrench ..
which is really hard to do with this normal half-inch torque wrench .
I don’t think any of them go up that high, you’d have to go to a three-quarter inch, could be wrong
I have a RT which is 4.7 to 1/ and when the car was new,
I couldn’t even break it loose with that.
I had to go to a breaker bar that was 5 feet long,
now I can remove it with the RT but not when they were new.
interested in seeing it. If you can post a picture I’m always looking for something easier.
not trying to be critical always looking for a better mouse trap ..
good luck
to tighten the wheel to 442 foot pounds you would have to exert 294 pounds on the wrench ..
which is really hard to do with this normal half-inch torque wrench .
I don’t think any of them go up that high, you’d have to go to a three-quarter inch, could be wrong
I have a RT which is 4.7 to 1/ and when the car was new,
I couldn’t even break it loose with that.
I had to go to a breaker bar that was 5 feet long,
now I can remove it with the RT but not when they were new.
interested in seeing it. If you can post a picture I’m always looking for something easier.
not trying to be critical always looking for a better mouse trap ..
good luck
Last edited by 4carl; 04-11-2024 at 08:11 PM.
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#8
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a 1.5 torque multiplication I’m surprised you can remove the center lock.
to tighten the wheel to 442 foot pounds you would have to exert 294 pounds on the wrench ..
which is really hard to do with this normal half-inch torque wrench .
I don’t think any of them go up that high, you’d have to go to a three-quarter inch, could be wrong
I have a RT which is 4.7 to 1/ and when the car was new,
I couldn’t even break it loose with that.
I had to go to a breaker bar that was 5 feet long,
now I can remove it with the RT but not when they were new.
interested in seeing it. If you can post a picture I’m always looking for something easier.
not trying to be critical always looking for a better mouse trap ..
good luck
to tighten the wheel to 442 foot pounds you would have to exert 294 pounds on the wrench ..
which is really hard to do with this normal half-inch torque wrench .
I don’t think any of them go up that high, you’d have to go to a three-quarter inch, could be wrong
I have a RT which is 4.7 to 1/ and when the car was new,
I couldn’t even break it loose with that.
I had to go to a breaker bar that was 5 feet long,
now I can remove it with the RT but not when they were new.
interested in seeing it. If you can post a picture I’m always looking for something easier.
not trying to be critical always looking for a better mouse trap ..
good luck
#9
a 1.5 torque multiplication I’m surprised you can remove the center lock.
to tighten the wheel to 442 foot pounds you would have to exert 294 pounds on the wrench ..
which is really hard to do with this normal half-inch torque wrench .
I don’t think any of them go up that high, you’d have to go to a three-quarter inch, could be wrong
I have a RT which is 4.7 to 1/ and when the car was new,
I couldn’t even break it loose with that.
I had to go to a breaker bar that was 5 feet long,
now I can remove it with the RT but not when they were new.
interested in seeing it. If you can post a picture I’m always looking for something easier.
not trying to be critical always looking for a better mouse trap ..
good luck
to tighten the wheel to 442 foot pounds you would have to exert 294 pounds on the wrench ..
which is really hard to do with this normal half-inch torque wrench .
I don’t think any of them go up that high, you’d have to go to a three-quarter inch, could be wrong
I have a RT which is 4.7 to 1/ and when the car was new,
I couldn’t even break it loose with that.
I had to go to a breaker bar that was 5 feet long,
now I can remove it with the RT but not when they were new.
interested in seeing it. If you can post a picture I’m always looking for something easier.
not trying to be critical always looking for a better mouse trap ..
good luck
#10
There is another DOT on top of the bottom one. Since he is mentioning this will come from EU I suspect they write the multiplier ratio different.
#11
Race Car
I guess I didn’t read it correctly. Usually, the torque multiplication is listed first so a 5-1
looks like I’m wrong sorry.
won’t be the last time
and it’s not the first
looks like I’m wrong sorry.
won’t be the last time
and it’s not the first
Last edited by 4carl; 04-11-2024 at 09:10 PM.
#12
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Correct, here we typically state the multiplication ratio the other way around, but i have adjusted it now in the original post to avoid any confusion.
#13
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That is a great idea and i would like to, but i can't: "Sponsors may have 2 open threads in the technical sections, including "bumping" old threads."
But you could and i would certainly appreciate it :-).
I had to choose just 2 boards and 991 GT3 + 992 GT3 boards seemed as the ones most alive to me.
But you could and i would certainly appreciate it :-).
I had to choose just 2 boards and 991 GT3 + 992 GT3 boards seemed as the ones most alive to me.
#14
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1RedHead (04-12-2024)
#15
Burning Brakes
Replying to stay informed. EU based. Interested.
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Gabriel@NutCracker (04-12-2024)