GrantG

Same person - he does great work

casey151

Thanks for all of the great info. I just upgraded from an M3 to a 991.1 GT3 and was initially really intimidated about the center locks but after reading a bunch of threads I it seems to be very doable with the right tools.

srwhitman

Cross posting a question here that I posted here: https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...10c4d600f.html
Q: I've only done this once but how do I use the Precisions Instruments tool without the RennTorq to torque the front wheels without someone holding the steering wheel? Moreover, why is it that using the RennTorq doesn't require a 2nd person? That just seems weird to me. We're supposed to torque with wheels in the air.
Q2: As noted above about torquing in the air, I'm going to make the assumption that it is ok to break the wheels on the ground. The issue (I think) is more uneven torq but not an issue for breaking. Am I wrong? If so, why?

I thought my mechanic was doing both in the air per spec and he just informed that he always does on the ground. That kind of sucks. I think he's justifying it by saying its not needed despite what Porsche says. I'm not too keen on that logic.

Mech33

You use a clamp in reverse to apply pressure against the brake pedal and the seat to keep the wheels from spinning.

srwhitman

That only works to keep the wheels spinning in that one direction. I am aware of that solution. But that doesn't do anything in yaw (holding the steering wheel).

GrantG

I always wait for someone to help with brake and steering wheel - I know it’s possible to do it without smacking the fender (without a Renntorq or Hytorq), but haven’t felt like trying yet…

Mech33

At particular angles (roughly horizontal) I find there is no net torque on the wheels in that direction and I’m able to torque it fine without the wheel being held if I’m careful.

But I’d imagine the same solutions used for holding the wheel during alignment could help, like this:

drcollie

From a practical standpoint, Center Locks require a 3/4" Torque Wrench to tighten and are nearly impossible to remove the wheel nut unless you have a helper in the driver's seat hard on the brake pedal. If you try to remove yourself with no one on the brakes the car rocks or you wind up literally turning just the wheel when you lay into that breaker bar.

On the plus side of that, no crook will ever steal your wheels....

4carl

I bought the renntorque @ $2300+ the precision set @$400.
I carry the renntorque but needed the precision set up to break them louse when they were new .
I had to buy the extension so I needed a 63" breaker bar (stock length wouldn't do it ) and all on my weight @150= 750 ft lb to break them louse.

ExMB

How many years ago was that?

4carl

I thought it was 400 but i really can't remember could have been more?
I do know that Ive spent $3000 tools and guide to remove and service the wheels and center locks..

MaxLTV

Not really. It's rather easy to torque and un-torque the wheels without the steering wheel moving, just have to do it once, and after that, it becomes an automatic motion. The brake pedal can be held with a truck brake suppressor or even with the case of the torque wrench stuffed between the edge of the seat and the pedal. And to blow people's minds - the handle of many racing floor jacks works perfectly as a handle to turn a split-beam torque wrench into a breaker bar; and you can jack up the car once per side because the rear jacking point lifts both front and rear wheels - just set the parking brake, and the car will not roll off the jack. I did dozens of wheel changes alone - never did any damage, and the last swap to winters took under 30 minutes with re-lubing, pressure adjustment and clean-up because the new (992) CLs do not require double-torquing or disassembly unless there are special reasons.

zairegp

Any reason why you wouldn't... pauses for a second so as not to feel like a complete fool... not kill yourself trying to break loose the lug by using a floor jack on the business end of the wrench?

zairegp

In other words, the breaker bar is attached to the lug and the handle pushed upwards (to loosen the lug) using the floor jack...

MaxLTV

If you are referring to what I was suggesting, it's not this. What I was describing is taking the racing floor jack lever (basically a very long pipe that everyone has anyway because you need a jack to lift the car) and attaching it to the end of the split-beam torque wrench instead of the torque-sensing handle by just sliding it over. This basically turns the torque wrench into a giant 6-7ft long ratchet with no torque-sensing parts to damage, which is a great breaker bar (no, it will not break the ratchet head at least on the Precision Instruments wrench - that ratchet head can handle it without an issue). I still can lift more than 400lbs, so I do not need to do that, but I've seen many people do it while changing their own wheels at track days.