Does anyone own a centerlock Torque Wrench?
#32
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Unfortunately, the best and best price aren't very well aligned in this case ![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
There are lots of options. I went with the Precision Instruments and it has worked well for me that includes a pretty robust wrench and breaker combo (I went with extension on the breaker).
Precision Instruments C4D600F36H 3/4 DRIVE TORQUE WRENCH WITH RATCHETING BREAKER BAR COMBINAT | Tool Discounter
Adaptor to lenghten breaker:
Precision Instruments® A10C4D600F - 3/4" Drive Torque Bar Adapter - TOOLSiD.com
Best torque wrench and expensive is the Stahlwille and you can use for breaker bar too (puts no load on the measuring part when loosening):
Part #50181100 for huge wrench and #58250100 for ratcheting 3/4" insert tool (total cost close to $2k)
This place in Italy has relatively good prices and fast shipping: https://www.misterworker.com/en
Renntorq makes a nice compact solution for lots of money
RENNtorq center lock tool V2 | Renntorq, llc (square.site)
and there is an electric solution for much more than that:
HYTORC Centerlock Torque Gun | Obsessed Garage
Both of the above require that you maintain the centerbolts well, or you'll also need a huge 3/4" breaker bar to loosen occasionally.
Here's the full Stahlwille catalog (torque tools from page 187):
STAHLWILLE Catalogue 2020/2021
![Wink](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/wink.gif)
There are lots of options. I went with the Precision Instruments and it has worked well for me that includes a pretty robust wrench and breaker combo (I went with extension on the breaker).
Precision Instruments C4D600F36H 3/4 DRIVE TORQUE WRENCH WITH RATCHETING BREAKER BAR COMBINAT | Tool Discounter
Adaptor to lenghten breaker:
Precision Instruments® A10C4D600F - 3/4" Drive Torque Bar Adapter - TOOLSiD.com
Best torque wrench and expensive is the Stahlwille and you can use for breaker bar too (puts no load on the measuring part when loosening):
Part #50181100 for huge wrench and #58250100 for ratcheting 3/4" insert tool (total cost close to $2k)
This place in Italy has relatively good prices and fast shipping: https://www.misterworker.com/en
Renntorq makes a nice compact solution for lots of money
RENNtorq center lock tool V2 | Renntorq, llc (square.site)
and there is an electric solution for much more than that:
HYTORC Centerlock Torque Gun | Obsessed Garage
Both of the above require that you maintain the centerbolts well, or you'll also need a huge 3/4" breaker bar to loosen occasionally.
Here's the full Stahlwille catalog (torque tools from page 187):
STAHLWILLE Catalogue 2020/2021
Thanks for all of the great info. I just upgraded from an M3 to a 991.1 GT3 and was initially really intimidated about the center locks but after reading a bunch of threads I it seems to be very doable with the right tools.
#33
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Cross posting a question here that I posted here: https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...10c4d600f.html
Q: I've only done this once but how do I use the Precisions Instruments tool without the RennTorq to torque the front wheels without someone holding the steering wheel? Moreover, why is it that using the RennTorq doesn't require a 2nd person? That just seems weird to me. We're supposed to torque with wheels in the air.
Q2: As noted above about torquing in the air, I'm going to make the assumption that it is ok to break the wheels on the ground. The issue (I think) is more uneven torq but not an issue for breaking. Am I wrong? If so, why?
I thought my mechanic was doing both in the air per spec and he just informed that he always does on the ground. That kind of sucks. I think he's justifying it by saying its not needed despite what Porsche says. I'm not too keen on that logic.
Q: I've only done this once but how do I use the Precisions Instruments tool without the RennTorq to torque the front wheels without someone holding the steering wheel? Moreover, why is it that using the RennTorq doesn't require a 2nd person? That just seems weird to me. We're supposed to torque with wheels in the air.
Q2: As noted above about torquing in the air, I'm going to make the assumption that it is ok to break the wheels on the ground. The issue (I think) is more uneven torq but not an issue for breaking. Am I wrong? If so, why?
I thought my mechanic was doing both in the air per spec and he just informed that he always does on the ground. That kind of sucks. I think he's justifying it by saying its not needed despite what Porsche says. I'm not too keen on that logic.
#34
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Cross posting a question here that I posted here: https://rennlist.com/forums/991-gt3-...10c4d600f.html
Q: I've only done this once but how do I use the Precisions Instruments tool without the RennTorq to torque the front wheels without someone holding the steering wheel? Moreover, why is it that using the RennTorq doesn't require a 2nd person? That just seems weird to me. We're supposed to torque with wheels in the air.
Q2: As noted above about torquing in the air, I'm going to make the assumption that it is ok to break the wheels on the ground. The issue (I think) is more uneven torq but not an issue for breaking. Am I wrong? If so, why?
I thought my mechanic was doing both in the air per spec and he just informed that he always does on the ground. That kind of sucks. I think he's justifying it by saying its not needed despite what Porsche says. I'm not too keen on that logic.
Q: I've only done this once but how do I use the Precisions Instruments tool without the RennTorq to torque the front wheels without someone holding the steering wheel? Moreover, why is it that using the RennTorq doesn't require a 2nd person? That just seems weird to me. We're supposed to torque with wheels in the air.
Q2: As noted above about torquing in the air, I'm going to make the assumption that it is ok to break the wheels on the ground. The issue (I think) is more uneven torq but not an issue for breaking. Am I wrong? If so, why?
I thought my mechanic was doing both in the air per spec and he just informed that he always does on the ground. That kind of sucks. I think he's justifying it by saying its not needed despite what Porsche says. I'm not too keen on that logic.
#35
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That only works to keep the wheels spinning in that one direction. I am aware of that solution. But that doesn't do anything in yaw (holding the steering wheel).
#36
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I always wait for someone to help with brake and steering wheel - I know it’s possible to do it without smacking the fender (without a Renntorq or Hytorq), but haven’t felt like trying yet…
#37
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But I’d imagine the same solutions used for holding the wheel during alignment could help, like this:
Last edited by Mech33; 02-25-2022 at 11:37 PM.
#38
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From a practical standpoint, Center Locks require a 3/4" Torque Wrench to tighten and are nearly impossible to remove the wheel nut unless you have a helper in the driver's seat hard on the brake pedal. If you try to remove yourself with no one on the brakes the car rocks or you wind up literally turning just the wheel when you lay into that breaker bar.
On the plus side of that, no crook will ever steal your wheels....![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
On the plus side of that, no crook will ever steal your wheels....
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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rekka (01-19-2024)
#39
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My dealer is just over 1.5 hours away, so when I need to change tires it seems like it will be pretty inconvenient to make that drive. Just curious how many of you have the very expensive torque wrench to do the job?
Also, I wonder if it's worth taking a chance with a shop getting the tires off without scratching the wheels.
Also, I wonder if it's worth taking a chance with a shop getting the tires off without scratching the wheels.
I carry the renntorque but needed the precision set up to break them louse when they were new .
I had to buy the extension so I needed a 63" breaker bar (stock length wouldn't do it ) and all on my weight @150= 750 ft lb to break them louse.
Last edited by 4carl; 01-02-2023 at 10:47 PM.
#40
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From a practical standpoint, Center Locks require a 3/4" Torque Wrench to tighten and are nearly impossible to remove the wheel nut unless you have a helper in the driver's seat hard on the brake pedal. If you try to remove yourself with no one on the brakes the car rocks or you wind up literally turning just the wheel when you lay into that breaker bar.
On the plus side of that, no crook will ever steal your wheels....![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
On the plus side of that, no crook will ever steal your wheels....
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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eclou (02-12-2023)
#43
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Any reason why you wouldn't... pauses for a second so as not to feel like a complete fool... not kill yourself trying to break loose the lug by using a floor jack on the business end of the wrench?
#44
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In other words, the breaker bar is attached to the lug and the handle pushed upwards (to loosen the lug) using the floor jack...
#45
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If you are referring to what I was suggesting, it's not this. What I was describing is taking the racing floor jack lever (basically a very long pipe that everyone has anyway because you need a jack to lift the car) and attaching it to the end of the split-beam torque wrench instead of the torque-sensing handle by just sliding it over. This basically turns the torque wrench into a giant 6-7ft long ratchet with no torque-sensing parts to damage, which is a great breaker bar (no, it will not break the ratchet head at least on the Precision Instruments wrench - that ratchet head can handle it without an issue). I still can lift more than 400lbs, so I do not need to do that, but I've seen many people do it while changing their own wheels at track days.
Last edited by MaxLTV; 01-03-2023 at 07:23 PM.