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I will R/R the items again and see if I can get a picture to show the amount of clearance I have in the engine bay of my particular car. This is obviously pretty hard to depict on a 2D image but I will try.
This is what mine looks like. This is looking virtually straight down onto the 36mm hex. You can see there is not much room to unscrew the housing and then pry it upwards and to the right to get it out. It does work, but I had to exert a lot of force both ways.
Rich, something looks wrong. The intake duct looks like it is sitting too high. Have you replaced the air filter? Maybe the filter housing is not mounted correctly.
Here's my original photo again. Can't even see the filter intake duct.
Rich, something looks wrong. The intake duct looks like it is sitting too high. Have you replaced the air filter? Maybe the filter housing is not mounted correctly.
I agree, it seems hard to understand how it could be normal. I’ve not even had the bumper off, myself; this is the first service I’ve done since buying the car as a CPO last June.
Ok, well I said I would post back what happened when I checked the oil.
I got to work early this morning, and above is what I saw. You think this is ok as is? Maybe add 200 ml or so?
My car is a ‘17 C2, I let the oil drain about 45”, with the car elevated on one Rhino ramp on the left side. Fill was 8.00 liters, as close as I could come.
Agree, my duct position is like bkrantz, out of site from most viewing angles.
Thanks, I am due for a plug change at 30k (5k from now). I will likely do that at the dealer. Assuming they pull the bumper for that (?) I’ll discuss the air duct position w my SA then.
If I ever get it figured out, I will update the thread, in case anyone else has this oil filter housing clearance issue.
So in the spirit of the thread, for anyone contemplating doing their own oil change, I thought I would post my experience today in using my new Autel code reader.
I started by verifying that my oil service interval needed to be reset. You turn on the ignition, then go to VEHICLE, then INFO, then SERVICE INTERVAL. I'm doing mine a little early to need.
Then I assembled my new Autel unit. It comes with a USB cable, and a data cable. I followed the instructions on the quick setup guide and attached it to my laptop. I then went to the Autel web site and registered the device, and activated my one free code set for "Porsche" (additional code sets are available from Autel). I then down loaded the code set and installed it in the reader. The instructions were fairly clear. This took about 15 minutes. After this, I was all set.
I then located the OBDII port. This is a bit hard to see, but it is in the driver side footwell, upper, tucked under the under side of the dash. The connector looks like this:
After inserting the connector firmly, you turn on the key and the reader starts to set itself up. You have to select the type of Porsche (991 for me):
Then you select the menus to initiate the oil reset (there are a few screens, this is a sample. Basically you follow the prompts)
The most fiddly part I found was that I discovered that for whatever reason, to "reset" the oil service for my car, I had to enter "todays" date in the data entry field.
You do this with a combination of moving the cursor around (it is hard to see the highlighted character, but it works) and hitting "enter" for that digit.
Anyway, once I entered today's date, I hit 'enter' and the reader did its thing.
Completed my oil change yesterday and can confirm that this tool worked to reset the maintenance reminder for me (had it from my GT4 days-Launch Creader VIII):
I believe you can find it cheaper-I think I got mine new on ebay for a bit less.
To update-I have confirmed that this did reset the maintenance reminder on my 991.2 with no issues. When adding oil, I started with 8 quarts of M1 5w-50 which didn't even make it to the minimum mark (I let the oil drain for about 45 mins after the oil was nice and hot). The car gave a warning that I needed to add oil immediately. I ended up adding an additional quart to get it to the minimum mark where it was "possible to drive". So far I am just over 9.5 quarts and still not to the max mark on the electronic reading but all warnings are off and it states "oil level ok". I think I will leave it as is for now.
Just an FYI to this thread. Or maybe a reality check? Had our Carrera at the dealer (Carlsbad, CA) earlier this month for an oil/filter change. Put just over 6,000 miles on the car in the last year, to raise the total to 22,204 miles (in 3 years). $374.20 (after my $40.34 PCA discount). Dealer labor rate: $185/hour. Details: 1.4 labor hours; $144.35 parts. Have in the recent past done an oil change on my own, and given that we are down to the last year of warranty coverage, expect to be doing more of the same on my own in the coming future. But to ease the pain, we did get a "complimentary world class multi point inspection" plus a "complimentary wash & vacuum of vehicle." And, they provided Lyft rides home and back to the dealer (about 15 miles each way). Oh, I got a free cup of coffee; turned down the snacks. All of this noted, I like my local dealership. I like my nominated service advisor; same guy since the car was new. I like their new facility wherefrom the waiting room owners one can watch what is going on in the service bay, among many other niceties. And I never expected to buy and own a new Carrera 911 "on the cheap." Por$che. Have two of them. No regrets.
Not just easy to turn, but easy to tell when the designed "tight" position is reached. IMO a clever design, given that the risks of screwing a traditional threaded plug, especially metal, into a plastic sump would be much more difficult to do right every time, and thus more risky. And since the oil inside is not under pressure, the O-ring seal is more than enough.
So how do you tell when the drain plug is in the "tight" position? Just turn until it stops? I did not feel any real noticeable detent or "click"........ The plug is not leaking after an idle test, yet it just seems like it could come out real easy. I will need to build confidence in this new plug design that I currently do not have.
So how do you tell when the drain plug is in the "tight" position? Just turn until it stops? I did not feel any real noticeable detent or "click"........ The plug is not leaking after an idle test, yet it just seems like it could come out real easy. I will need to build confidence in this new plug design that I currently do not have.
There is a triangle that lines up with some other Mark when it is in its final position. Can’t remember how it all looks but it was surprised and how easily it turned.
02-02-2020, 02:39 PM
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