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i know picture are from front and rear on the two cars but the Girodisc are same perfect fit for front and rear. When order GiroDisc, make sure you specify replacement for 330.
I also cleaned wheel while on car using Sonax wheel cleaner. Never do that. Next project is to remove everything and clean center hub and paint with black heat resistant paint.
So AP sells S rotors which are 350 and those don’t look custom to the base and appear leaves gap between hat and pad on the ring. They look nice and I’m sure will provide good stopping power. However, I purchased . Girodisc which make custom 350mm rotors for the base 330 rotors Zero gap and ring is good fit for the calipers and pads. . Not a sales person for GiroDisc, just a happy customer. You guys can see difference in the photos.
That's an interesting observation. I'm assuming it's because AP is trying to use the same rotor for those with the non-base red calipers as well (i.e. fewer part numbers and inventory to carry)? I say interesting, because I actually prefer AP's J hook design. With that said, if the iron rotor is larger on the AP rotor, that means more weight without the actual usage of the additional surface area. Sure, the additional material still provides thermal benefit, but at the expense of a little more weight. For me, the GiroDisc now seems like the more thoughtful application (i.e. right size for outer iron ring, slightly less weight, etc.).
So AP sells S rotors which are 350 and those don’t look custom to the base and appear leaves gap between hat and pad on the ring. They look nice and I’m sure will provide good stopping power. However, I purchased . Girodisc which make custom 350mm rotors for the base 330 rotors Zero gap and ring is good fit for the calipers and pads. . Not a sales person for GiroDisc, just a happy customer. You guys can see difference in the photos.
I also noticed that and was a bit bothered by it. Once the rotor wears, it will become very obvious. I wonder when it is time to change if I can reuse my hat and put on Girodisc?
Could it also be I was given the wrong spacer? @JRitt@essex - what say you?
after trying a different look on the rear spoiler I took the plunge and bought the Sport Design (I think that's what it's called) rear spoiler from Suncoast.
it comes with the plastic undertray, but it's the same as the stock tray so no need to swap it out.
the stock spoiler is going on the wall in my office.
after trying a different look on the rear spoiler I took the plunge and bought the Sport Design (I think that's what it's called) rear spoiler from Suncoast.
it comes with the plastic undertray, but it's the same as the stock tray so no need to swap it out.
the stock spoiler is going on the wall in my office.
just need to get her painted.
Do you already have the Sport Design front bumper?
Yeah they are the everything vinyl decals. Maybe a smidge too big. Good idea re: the arrows. Would be nice if they were a bit less bright white but whatever it was $10.
I also noticed that and was a bit bothered by it. Once the rotor wears, it will become very obvious. I wonder when it is time to change if I can reuse my hat and put on Girodisc?
Could it also be I was given the wrong spacer? @JRitt@essex - what say you?
The reason we have more gap between the bottom of the caliper and our disc hat is twofold:
Our AP Racing J Hook discs are designed to allow the owner greater flexibility in pad choice. The radial depth of a disc is the distance from the OD to the ID of the disc face. The radial depth of a pad is the distance between the top edge of the friction material and the bottom edge of the friction material.
Sometimes this distance can be referred to as pad height, or how tall a pad is. Brake pads from different manufacturers come in different radial depths. For example, the Ferodo pads for the front of the base 991 is the FCP4805: https://ecat.ferodoracing.com/produc...s/code/FCP4805 That pad has a radial depth/friction puck height of 59.8mm. When installed, that pad would come all the way down to the point where it was almost touching the hat on our discs. Some manufacturers make the same pad shape in different radial depths. They may have one version of a pad that is 48mm tall, and another version that is 60mm tall. I can't tell from the pics exactly what radial depth the Endless pads you selected have, but they are not as tall as some of the other options out there from Ferodo, Pagid, etc. That's why there is an unswept area of the iron disc ring between the bottom of the pad and the disc hat. The size of the gap between the lower pad edge and the disc hat is a function of the radial depth of the pad you choose.
Greater pad volume = greater heat capacity. The larger the pad volume you're running, the greater the ability of that pad to absorb heat. A pad that has greater surface area (length x width x height) can more easily spread heat. A disc with a taller radial depth (outer diameter to inner diameter) does the same thing...it spreads the heat out and allows it to radiate. Pad thickness is also a factor in pad volume, and many manufacturers also make pads of the same basic shape in different thicknesses. We see this all the time in racing. They have a 20mm version of the pad for sprint races, and a 28mm thick variant for endurance racing.
In this case the Endless pads are likely the same thickness as other options, assuming all the discs we're discussing are the same thickness. Otherwise you wouldn't be able to cram those pads in between the caliper pistons and the disc faces.
Potential downsides to having a gap between the bottom of the pad and the disc hat
When you have a large unswept area of disc close to the disc hat, that area can run colder than the portion of the disc that is being swept by the pad. That can create a temperature gradient in the disc at track temps, and cause cracking. For heavy track use, we'd recommend running a pad with a taller radial depth that doesn't leave as much disc unswept. That said, we've had many clients run our AP J Hook discs with a gap between the lower pad edge and the disc hat, and it has not been a problem or caused any issues. Our discs are the stoutest in the market, and this just hasn't been an issue. If you're just tooling around on the street with a pad that has a short radial depth, it definitely won't be an issue.
As an FYI...we offer quite a few complete brake kits for other types of vehicles that use a caliper/pad/disc combo that leaves a small portion of disc unswept. These systems have covered many thousands of track miles with no premature disc cracking.
When you swap between a shallow radial depth pad and a tall radial depth pad, you could have a small lip or ridge form on the disc face. For example, you run a street pad with a shallow radial depth (45mm) 20,000 miles. You then decide to go to the track, and you insert track pads with a tall (59mm) radial depth. You will have a radial ridge formed in the disc where the lower edge of the street pad has worn into the iron disc ring. In that case it would be advisable to run the race pads cold a bit, in order to wear away a little iron and flatten out that ridge before trying to bed the race pads in.
In summary, there isn't anything 'wrong' or 'incorrect' about the AP Racing discs. The radial depths of the discs were intentionally chosen to allow our customers the greatest flexibility in pad selection. For track use, our discs allow them to run the maximum pad volume for fade resistance, heat capacity, and longevity. That's what our customers requested, so that's what we offer. The goal was to allow for the most durability and to allow the most pad options. We didn't want to lock anyone in or hold them hostage to a certain pad brand.
Hopefully the above makes sense and isn't too confusing!
__________________
'09 Carrera 2S, '08 Boxster LE (orange), '91 Acura NSX, Tesla Model 3 Performance, Fiesta ST
Jeff Ritter
Mgr. High Performance Division, Essex Parts Services Essex Designed AP Racing Radi-CAL Competition Brake Kits & 2-piece J Hook Discs Ferodo Racing Brake Pads Spiegler Stainless Steel Brake Lines
704-824-6030 jeff.ritter@essexparts.com
i have the same iphone magnet mount from them. Seems pretty solid, but a little strange that it's really only being supported by wedging the piece of metal in between the plastic. I used the piece of felt that came with it to make it more secure as well. Going to try it at the track in a few weeks to see how it holds up.
I tried 3 other mounts before I spent the extra $$ for the T-9 Design Magnum. I was also skeptical that friction would hold it in place.
Shortly after I received it I spent 4 days in Robbinsville, NC at the Rennsport Dragon Rally. My phone never moved. I hit 1.1 G on both right and left turns and the phone never moved. I'm betting you'll have the same experience on the track.
10-24-2020, 10:46 AM
