Tractive Suspension Help
Thread Starter
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Sorry you can't make it maybe we grab some coffee with a few of the other local Rennlisters.
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From: Fort Lauderdale, FL
I still might not be able to drive the event due to the aforementioned family issue but will at least show up. I might not have the time to get the inspection and install my track pads before the 15th.
Sorry you can't make it maybe we grab some coffee with a few of the other local Rennlisters.
Sorry you can't make it maybe we grab some coffee with a few of the other local Rennlisters.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2020
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We are PCA approved for the tech inspection, so I got you covered there. (Wasn’t on the list they sent but that’s been corrected). Can swap your pads as well of course. I’ll do my best to work around your schedule, even after hours if necessary. Happy to take a little pressure off you given situation at home. 🙂
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2017
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Can I ask what spring rates you are running with your tractive?
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I'm still running the 70/100 that Joey recommended and yes, I know that seems super soft but it's working so far, but obviously not at full track speeds. The Tarrett rear bar is also full stiff, and I've had to move up the stiffness of the rear dampers compared to the stock Tractive maps. The balance is literally perfect, it doesn't push at low speeds, and you can steer with the throttle.
With these rates the dampers are best around 1100milliamps or less(stiffer) so I'm missing part of the dampers range which tells me stiffer springs are in the future when I upgrade the turbos. I know you’re running the Manthey rates which have the same front to rear ratio, but I may be a step below that in the future as I’m not carrying your speeds with less HP. Considering your in bumpy tracks with those rates says a lot about these dampers. They really are excellent dampers and the more time I spend on them the better they get.
I'm still going to work on my DSC maps and maximize this setup first as I want to fully understand the damper tuning before I change rates.
With these rates the dampers are best around 1100milliamps or less(stiffer) so I'm missing part of the dampers range which tells me stiffer springs are in the future when I upgrade the turbos. I know you’re running the Manthey rates which have the same front to rear ratio, but I may be a step below that in the future as I’m not carrying your speeds with less HP. Considering your in bumpy tracks with those rates says a lot about these dampers. They really are excellent dampers and the more time I spend on them the better they get.
I'm still going to work on my DSC maps and maximize this setup first as I want to fully understand the damper tuning before I change rates.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 2,572
Likes: 1,524
I'm still running the 70/100 that Joey recommended and yes, I know that seems super soft but it's working so far, but obviously not at full track speeds. The Tarrett rear bar is also full stiff, and I've had to move up the stiffness of the rear dampers compared to the stock Tractive maps. The balance is literally perfect, it doesn't push at low speeds, and you can steer with the throttle.
They really are excellent dampers and the more time I spend on them the better they get.
I'm still going to work on my DSC maps and maximize this setup first as I want to fully understand the damper tuning before I change rates.
They really are excellent dampers and the more time I spend on them the better they get.
I'm still going to work on my DSC maps and maximize this setup first as I want to fully understand the damper tuning before I change rates.
The Tractive is so good that I ran around the street in full track stiff mode, when 100/150. I never even needed the softer mode.
It’s only now I’m 120/170 that I now need to use the softer mode on the street. But I tell you, I love the softer mode on the street with the increased rates. It even passed the wife test. She said, you’ve changed something. The car is more comfy. 🤣🤣. Ummm, yeah, I have it in the softer mode. 🤣🤣
I was starting to get into the bump stops with 100/150, my mechanic agreed it was time for more.
Last edited by 4 Point 0; Sep 5, 2023 at 06:17 PM.
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From: Los Angeles
A few guys in our group started conservatively also at 70/120. They have moved up to 100/150 now and cannot believe the difference.
The Tractive is so good that I ran around the street in full track stiff mode, when 100/150. I never even needed the softer mode.
It’s only now I’m 120/170 that I now need to use the softer mode on the street. But I tell you, I love the softer mode on the street with the increased rates. It even passed the wife test. She said, you’ve changed something. The car is more comfy. 🤣🤣. Ummm, yeah, I have it in the softer mode. 🤣🤣
I was starting to get into the bump stops with 100/150, my mechanic agreed it was time for more.
The Tractive is so good that I ran around the street in full track stiff mode, when 100/150. I never even needed the softer mode.
It’s only now I’m 120/170 that I now need to use the softer mode on the street. But I tell you, I love the softer mode on the street with the increased rates. It even passed the wife test. She said, you’ve changed something. The car is more comfy. 🤣🤣. Ummm, yeah, I have it in the softer mode. 🤣🤣
I was starting to get into the bump stops with 100/150, my mechanic agreed it was time for more.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 2,572
Likes: 1,524
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1st Gear
Joined: Dec 2023
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I’ve had mine for almost 5 years now. I have made countless changes and they are epic.
However, when they were first installed I also had similar issue. My car already had DSC V3 (the 2018 one).
My race mechanic installed the tractive.
We called the Tractive Australian distributor, and he remotely plugged into the DSC and programmed it.
After around 5 minutes, he said, you’re good to go and hung up. My race mechanic backed the car off the hoist and stopped and got out and immediately said, you car is bouncing on the springs like you have zero dampening at all. We called back the Tractive rep, he plugged back in, after 10 minutes, said should be all good now.
I jumped in and on the way home almost lost all my fillings (and i don’t have any). I called him back, the car was on FULL Stiff! He plugged in again, messed around for another 10 minutes and then got me to drive and he was watching live feed. He said its definitely working now.
It seemed to be working. However in hindsight, I never really felt with this setup 75/150 that the car was as good as other cars on the track.
Then I installed GT3 front anti-Sway bars. This made the front end collapse and i would light the tyres up out of every corner. Pretty much a total loss of drive.
I up graded the front springs to 100. So was now at 100/150 and then got a custom map from Tom at TPC.
Hello tractive. Now it delivered. Now it was every bit as good as an RS.
after being happy with that a few years, I wanted more. So up graded the Springs to 120/170 Manthey Racing spec.
I can’t believe that Tractive still makes the car perfectly street-able with such a serious spring rate.
Although I don’t know why i was supprised. With 100/150 it was good enough to drive on the streets at full track stiff.
Now with 120/170 I actually use the softer mode on the street. (I sprang for the latest V3 - Later version as well)
(My thoughts are you will be able to sort the issue.)
If not 911ATX was looking for Tractive.
i have a couple of guys in a group with 991.2. I’ll let them know you’re selling.
However, when they were first installed I also had similar issue. My car already had DSC V3 (the 2018 one).
My race mechanic installed the tractive.
We called the Tractive Australian distributor, and he remotely plugged into the DSC and programmed it.
After around 5 minutes, he said, you’re good to go and hung up. My race mechanic backed the car off the hoist and stopped and got out and immediately said, you car is bouncing on the springs like you have zero dampening at all. We called back the Tractive rep, he plugged back in, after 10 minutes, said should be all good now.
I jumped in and on the way home almost lost all my fillings (and i don’t have any). I called him back, the car was on FULL Stiff! He plugged in again, messed around for another 10 minutes and then got me to drive and he was watching live feed. He said its definitely working now.
It seemed to be working. However in hindsight, I never really felt with this setup 75/150 that the car was as good as other cars on the track.
Then I installed GT3 front anti-Sway bars. This made the front end collapse and i would light the tyres up out of every corner. Pretty much a total loss of drive.
I up graded the front springs to 100. So was now at 100/150 and then got a custom map from Tom at TPC.
Hello tractive. Now it delivered. Now it was every bit as good as an RS.
after being happy with that a few years, I wanted more. So up graded the Springs to 120/170 Manthey Racing spec.
I can’t believe that Tractive still makes the car perfectly street-able with such a serious spring rate.
Although I don’t know why i was supprised. With 100/150 it was good enough to drive on the streets at full track stiff.
Now with 120/170 I actually use the softer mode on the street. (I sprang for the latest V3 - Later version as well)
(My thoughts are you will be able to sort the issue.)
If not 911ATX was looking for Tractive.
i have a couple of guys in a group with 991.2. I’ll let them know you’re selling.
Hi!
I have the same problem you had. The car is completely bouncy. Did you need a special cable and software installed before they messed with it remotely?
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2020
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If you have checked all of the connections and can run a data log make sure you see the voltage change to the dampers.
Also try to disconnect the battery for a few minutes then go for a drive. Is it still full stiff?
my issue was leaving the PC connected then starting the car.
Also try to disconnect the battery for a few minutes then go for a drive. Is it still full stiff?
my issue was leaving the PC connected then starting the car.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 2,572
Likes: 1,524
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 68
Likes: 4
If I have this level of support it would be helpful, but I don't. I was told good luck. That doesn't sit well with me after spending 9.5k. I have very little personal time in my life between running a business and care-giving for my mom so this setup and just flat out pissed me off with the amount of time I've wasted. Then told good luck errrrr. Joey and his team were happy to spend time on the phone, send parts overnight whenever the shop had an issue. These guys tell me good luck. That's the place that will get my business.
I'll probably go KW Comps as I 100% need 4-ways to deal with the 3rd world roads we have here and still maintain good low speed body control.
I'll probably go KW Comps as I 100% need 4-ways to deal with the 3rd world roads we have here and still maintain good low speed body control.
But after spending all that money on the tractive and dsc, seem like a waste to not able to get it right.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Mar 2020
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The first thing you want to do is get the shock calibration right which is basically the valving. Then start working on the velocity tables making small changes in increments of 2 and working your way down. I'm at a point I'm making .1 and .2 changes in velocity. Once you get it right you will not need to switch to sport, that is basically my track mode.
What spring rates are you running? Maybe I can provide you some insight to what has been working for me.
It's a good system but the mistake I made was buying from a 3rd party reseller. The 3rd party dealer told me to call TPC for help. Then TPC says the dealer is responsible. No 3rd party is going to have the in-depth knowledge on these unless they trained them. They did help me with the full hard issue I had so thank you TPC for that help, but I have been in an island learning how to tune these dampers. I've had 3-ways and 4 ways in the past and they were easier, but they also did not have the flexibility that the Tractive’s do.
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2017
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Tractive DSC settings
It's taken me 6 months and 4k miles to get mine to a point where I'm happy with it. I was literally driving around with my laptop everywhere I went making adjustments in grocery store parking lots. Now I need to go through the entire process again as the brake and engine mods call for stiffer springs. At least now I know what to do.
The first thing you want to do is get the shock calibration right which is basically the valving. Then start working on the velocity tables making small changes in increments of 2 and working your way down. I'm at a point I'm making .1 and .2 changes in velocity. Once you get it right you will not need to switch to sport, that is basically my track mode.
What spring rates are you running? Maybe I can provide you some insight to what has been working for me.
It's a good system but the mistake I made was buying from a 3rd party reseller. The 3rd party dealer told me to call TPC for help. Then TPC says the dealer is responsible. No 3rd party is going to have the in-depth knowledge on these unless they trained them. They did help me with the full hard issue I had so thank you TPC for that help, but I have been in an island learning how to tune these dampers. I've had 3-ways and 4 ways in the past and they were easier, but they also did not have the flexibility that the Tractive’s do.
The first thing you want to do is get the shock calibration right which is basically the valving. Then start working on the velocity tables making small changes in increments of 2 and working your way down. I'm at a point I'm making .1 and .2 changes in velocity. Once you get it right you will not need to switch to sport, that is basically my track mode.
What spring rates are you running? Maybe I can provide you some insight to what has been working for me.
It's a good system but the mistake I made was buying from a 3rd party reseller. The 3rd party dealer told me to call TPC for help. Then TPC says the dealer is responsible. No 3rd party is going to have the in-depth knowledge on these unless they trained them. They did help me with the full hard issue I had so thank you TPC for that help, but I have been in an island learning how to tune these dampers. I've had 3-ways and 4 ways in the past and they were easier, but they also did not have the flexibility that the Tractive’s do.
Been using the G Table to try to get the compliance as the Shock calibration and G-comfort don't seem to be able to sort out the low speed jumping.
Any advice would be much appreciated. Thanks!