ohlin coilovers
11-01-2022, 08:21 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
ohlin coilovers
Hi Guy,s anyone with ohlins coilovers ? How do you compare from stock? also what spring rate did you choose?SPRING RATES: 70N/mm front – 140N/mm rear (Custom spring rates available by request)
Thx
Thx
11-02-2022, 07:43 AM
#2
Former Vendor
There are a few guys on here, like 4 Point 0, that have experimented with multiple spring rates on track.
From my own personal experience with Ohlins (not on this platform) they are a great product for aggressive street and light track use, but if you are tracking more than that, there are other products out there that are better suited to the task.
From my own personal experience with Ohlins (not on this platform) they are a great product for aggressive street and light track use, but if you are tracking more than that, there are other products out there that are better suited to the task.
11-02-2022, 11:58 AM
#3
I have Ohlins R&T installed on my 991.1 C2S. I do not have anything customized from ohlins.
World of difference for me. More compliant and more comfortable compared to stock. Of all the changes I have made it is the one I appreciate the most.
World of difference for me. More compliant and more comfortable compared to stock. Of all the changes I have made it is the one I appreciate the most.
11-02-2022, 12:02 PM
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
There are a few guys on here, like 4 Point 0, that have experimented with multiple spring rates on track.
From my own personal experience with Ohlins (not on this platform) they are a great product for aggressive street and light track use, but if you are tracking more than that, there are other products out there that are better suited to the task.
From my own personal experience with Ohlins (not on this platform) they are a great product for aggressive street and light track use, but if you are tracking more than that, there are other products out there that are better suited to the task.
11-02-2022, 12:16 PM
#5
Basic Sponsor
Rennlist
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We have the Ohlins in stock ready to ship and on sale.
The rates that come from Ohlins are pretty good to go out of the box.
They are good for daily driving and on the track, people that customize spring rates are usually the ones with dedicated vehicles for the track or very particular about their suspension..
-Josh
The rates that come from Ohlins are pretty good to go out of the box.
They are good for daily driving and on the track, people that customize spring rates are usually the ones with dedicated vehicles for the track or very particular about their suspension..
-Josh
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cptcolo0 (07-31-2024)
Trending Topics
11-03-2022, 01:34 AM
#8
Rennlist Member
https://rennlist.com/forums/991/1271...w-raceway.html
11-03-2022, 01:50 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
I take it what is being discussed here are shocks that are not adjustable like the PASM optioned cars?
11-03-2022, 05:16 PM
#10
Rennlist Member
im on jrz RS 2's with no remote and they are awesome just got back from a track day and can say awesome. my car has jrz's and elephant racing arms. jrz and mcs are the only options i would go with if you are considering tracking your car.
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blackcheetah (11-03-2022)
11-03-2022, 07:15 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
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IronTexan (11-03-2022)
11-04-2022, 08:28 PM
#13
A car sits on its spring and rides on its shocks.
Single purpose is easy, as there are no compromises.
Dual purpose is more complicated. The higher quality of shock absorber, the better the all round performance/
Spring rate is another thing altogether.
24/48 Base
33/108 GTS. So whilst they significantly increased the rear, the front was kept soft for street.
33/108 mis close enough to 1:3 and it has a separation of 75 front to back.
I thought I’d be really clever and went 75/150. That is 1:2 ratio and still the 75 separation. I figured this would be the ultimate all rounder. It almost was. Massive improvement over stock (Hint-Everything is). It was street compliant, and I thought it was ok at the track.
A Pro that drove my car, stock suspension then after the new setup said its lost drive. I never knew what he meant until about a year later. (Because I wasn’t going hard enough). When I added GT3 front anti-sway bar and rear tarett bar it became very clear what he meant.
Turning in seemed ok, but in reality the front was collapsing and as I accelerated out of the corner it would spin the rear inside tyre. This was a ton of fun and gave me confidence sliding the car. But it wasn’t fast. It was also unstable under now, much heavier braking.
I went to 100 in the front, so 100/150. Hello Porsche.
Now the car turned, it never dived under extreme braking. The car was balanced and I ran that for quite awile.
This will suit fast cars. If you want to blow away GT3’s and GT3-RS at the track, you won’t do it with anything under 100 up front. 991.2 RS was the first to do 100/160.
100/150 was better over speed humps because at 75/150 the front would go bump and the rear BUMP. It would seen harsh, only because the front was soft.
90/140 is much better than 70/140. Your car is fast brother. If you go any softer, you’ll only want more very quickly and need to pay again.
90/140
100/150 Will last you until you are a fully fledged track rat.
Single purpose is easy, as there are no compromises.
Dual purpose is more complicated. The higher quality of shock absorber, the better the all round performance/
Spring rate is another thing altogether.
24/48 Base
33/108 GTS. So whilst they significantly increased the rear, the front was kept soft for street.
33/108 mis close enough to 1:3 and it has a separation of 75 front to back.
I thought I’d be really clever and went 75/150. That is 1:2 ratio and still the 75 separation. I figured this would be the ultimate all rounder. It almost was. Massive improvement over stock (Hint-Everything is). It was street compliant, and I thought it was ok at the track.
A Pro that drove my car, stock suspension then after the new setup said its lost drive. I never knew what he meant until about a year later. (Because I wasn’t going hard enough). When I added GT3 front anti-sway bar and rear tarett bar it became very clear what he meant.
Turning in seemed ok, but in reality the front was collapsing and as I accelerated out of the corner it would spin the rear inside tyre. This was a ton of fun and gave me confidence sliding the car. But it wasn’t fast. It was also unstable under now, much heavier braking.
I went to 100 in the front, so 100/150. Hello Porsche.
Now the car turned, it never dived under extreme braking. The car was balanced and I ran that for quite awile.
This will suit fast cars. If you want to blow away GT3’s and GT3-RS at the track, you won’t do it with anything under 100 up front. 991.2 RS was the first to do 100/160.
100/150 was better over speed humps because at 75/150 the front would go bump and the rear BUMP. It would seen harsh, only because the front was soft.
90/140 is much better than 70/140. Your car is fast brother. If you go any softer, you’ll only want more very quickly and need to pay again.
90/140
100/150 Will last you until you are a fully fledged track rat.
The following 2 users liked this post by 4 Point 0:
spdracerut (11-05-2022),
ZnZBar 986S (11-07-2022)
11-05-2022, 12:28 PM
#14
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
A car sits on its spring and rides on its shocks.
Single purpose is easy, as there are no compromises.
Dual purpose is more complicated. The higher quality of shock absorber, the better the all round performance/
Spring rate is another thing altogether.
24/48 Base
33/108 GTS. So whilst they significantly increased the rear, the front was kept soft for street.
33/108 mis close enough to 1:3 and it has a separation of 75 front to back.
I thought I’d be really clever and went 75/150. That is 1:2 ratio and still the 75 separation. I figured this would be the ultimate all rounder. It almost was. Massive improvement over stock (Hint-Everything is). It was street compliant, and I thought it was ok at the track.
A Pro that drove my car, stock suspension then after the new setup said its lost drive. I never knew what he meant until about a year later. (Because I wasn’t going hard enough). When I added GT3 front anti-sway bar and rear tarett bar it became very clear what he meant.
Turning in seemed ok, but in reality the front was collapsing and as I accelerated out of the corner it would spin the rear inside tyre. This was a ton of fun and gave me confidence sliding the car. But it wasn’t fast. It was also unstable under now, much heavier braking.
I went to 100 in the front, so 100/150. Hello Porsche.
Now the car turned, it never dived under extreme braking. The car was balanced and I ran that for quite awile.
This will suit fast cars. If you want to blow away GT3’s and GT3-RS at the track, you won’t do it with anything under 100 up front. 991.2 RS was the first to do 100/160.
100/150 was better over speed humps because at 75/150 the front would go bump and the rear BUMP. It would seen harsh, only because the front was soft.
90/140 is much better than 70/140. Your car is fast brother. If you go any softer, you’ll only want more very quickly and need to pay again.
90/140
100/150 Will last you until you are a fully fledged track rat.
Single purpose is easy, as there are no compromises.
Dual purpose is more complicated. The higher quality of shock absorber, the better the all round performance/
Spring rate is another thing altogether.
24/48 Base
33/108 GTS. So whilst they significantly increased the rear, the front was kept soft for street.
33/108 mis close enough to 1:3 and it has a separation of 75 front to back.
I thought I’d be really clever and went 75/150. That is 1:2 ratio and still the 75 separation. I figured this would be the ultimate all rounder. It almost was. Massive improvement over stock (Hint-Everything is). It was street compliant, and I thought it was ok at the track.
A Pro that drove my car, stock suspension then after the new setup said its lost drive. I never knew what he meant until about a year later. (Because I wasn’t going hard enough). When I added GT3 front anti-sway bar and rear tarett bar it became very clear what he meant.
Turning in seemed ok, but in reality the front was collapsing and as I accelerated out of the corner it would spin the rear inside tyre. This was a ton of fun and gave me confidence sliding the car. But it wasn’t fast. It was also unstable under now, much heavier braking.
I went to 100 in the front, so 100/150. Hello Porsche.
Now the car turned, it never dived under extreme braking. The car was balanced and I ran that for quite awile.
This will suit fast cars. If you want to blow away GT3’s and GT3-RS at the track, you won’t do it with anything under 100 up front. 991.2 RS was the first to do 100/160.
100/150 was better over speed humps because at 75/150 the front would go bump and the rear BUMP. It would seen harsh, only because the front was soft.
90/140 is much better than 70/140. Your car is fast brother. If you go any softer, you’ll only want more very quickly and need to pay again.
90/140
100/150 Will last you until you are a fully fledged track rat.
The following 2 users liked this post by blackcheetah:
4 Point 0 (11-05-2022),
spdracerut (11-05-2022)
11-05-2022, 02:01 PM
#15
Three Wheelin'
You can look it up in to confirm, I’m pretty sure it’s in the user manual, but I seem to recall it’s every 2 years / 20k’ish miles. You can send them off and pay a shop to rebuild, or you can rebuild yourself, it’s not crazy complicated.
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cptcolo0 (07-31-2024)