PorscheADD

Hey there - I'm interested in a 2013 PDK coupe, 22K miles on the odometer, and on inspection by an independent shop with a scope that a couple of cylinders have the dreaded bore scoring.

(Yes, yes, I did a search of this forum and didn't find anything.)

The price seems right at $60K, but this has got me kind of backed off. The car runs and drives great and I'm concerned but not enough to fully back away.

Is this like a time bomb? What's it cost to drop in a new engine?

Thanks in advance.

Jitters here in the PNW.

NJ991

It’s not common for a 991.1 to have bore scoring, but there have been some cases that people have documented on these forums. Me personally, why bother. It’ll eventually need to be fixed, wether you get stuck with it while owning it, or probably before you want to sell it. Move on to the next.

BSO

You need to price out an engine rebuild and add it to your purchase cost if you keep the car for any length of time.

Rebuilds/replacement range $8 to $25k, from a quick Google search. Prices will vary based on individual cases

The higher cost is for a high performance engine build. Check the forum, lots of info on bore scoring and rebuilds.

Try here,

https://flat6innovations.com/
http://www.lnengineering.com/

Google "991.1 bore scoring" for further info.

Owning a Porsche is nice, owning a Porsche out of warranty and with confirmed bore scoring isn't nice and an expensive repair.

Joec500

def pass if you know 100% there is bore scoring.

I see you are in the PNW, this seems to be more of an issue in colder climates and I know it gets cold up there in the Winter time.

Good Luck on your search.

PorscheADD

Thanks guys, I think I'll pass and move on to the next one. Interesting comment on cold climates. Oil not up to temp?

snake eyes

Run away from Bore scoring!

Always make sure oil up to temp on 911's before you 'lean' in on them

fpb111

Pistons get hot and expand faster than cylinder walls. Especially if you lean hard on the engine when it is cold.

Norge911

and never idle a modern car. Start and drive.

modern car inject extra fuel in order heat the CATs and during idling this can cause washing of the cylinders and bore scoring.

997ajk

Based on what I have read:
-PDK cars when driven in "standard mode" exhibit more bore scoring
-cars from northern climates have this issue more then others
-idling / short distance driving combined with prolonged oil change intervals is a recipe for scoring
-not getting the oil / engine hot enough during drives
-poor coating / porsche design on 9A1 engines - not a problem on turbo motors

Personally would look at 2.5T Cayman / 718....

Vicbastige

What oil temp is generally considered warm enough to begin spirited driving?

997ajk

I would say 80C / 175F would be your min before you start redlining. Optimal is around 90C/190F, from there it will be dynamic and controlled.

Mike Murphy

+1. Very important, it’s often listed in owners manuals for many cars.

Vicbastige

...but not in mine that I can find for the 991.2. Not calling anybody out at all, but I'm shocked that if bore scoring from idling at cold start up was a risk, it would be plastered all over the operators manual in bold red. Still, I'll start and drive easy to operating temps based on the consistent feedback here.

Joec500

and IMS explosions partially due to dirty oil, so 10k oil change intervals are actually NOT OK.

I feel like owners manuals only get you to around 100k miles and they expect you to recycle the car at that point.

Carl Over

100% pass. Why? There are better cars out there. No if you are a Porsche tech, go for it.